[v8media]

Hey there, I just recently got my '56 Bel Air 4 dr sedan back from getting the stock 265 engine fully rebuilt. Runs great, and it looks like I'm getting about 25 mpg cruising! (13mp with heavy acceleration from starts). However, as the title says, it's now not starting.

The situation right now: I'm getting good crank from the starter, just replaced the battery as the old one was toast. I initially thought it could be the fuel system, even though the fuel pump was just replaced, but after leaving it for a couple days, just a couple cranks got fuel pumped up into the filter, so I'm guessing the fuel system is fine. The plugs are new, the wires look very recent, and the distributor wasn't replaced as it looked fine.

What's the order of things to check? I'm guessing something with the distributor, but are there any other likely suspects?

Thanks, Ian

 

[acardon]

First, determine if you are firing the plugs. The easiest way is to pull a wire from one of the sparkplugs, connect it to a sparkplug, lay the plug on the engine and crank it. Doesn't matter what kind of sparkplug. See if it has a good strong spark.
If it's firing the plug, then look down into the carb and operate the throttle linkage to see if you get a squirt of gas. The needle valve in the carb could be stuck.

 

[v8media]

It's looking like no spark.

First, determine if you are firing the plugs. The easiest way is to pull a wire from one of the sparkplugs, connect it to a sparkplug, lay the plug on the engine and crank it. Doesn't matter what kind of sparkplug. See if it has a good strong spark.
If it's firing the plug, then look down into the carb and operate the throttle linkage to see if you get a squirt of gas. The needle valve in the carb could be stuck.

 

[acardon]

and the distributor wasn't replaced as it looked fine.
What's the order of things to check? I'm guessing something with the distributor, but are there any other likely suspects?

Check for power at the + coil terminal with a test light or meter while cranking the engine. Check that the points are opening and closeing and that they are not dirty with oil or something.

 

[v8media]

Got it! Thank you! Finally got a long enough break in the rain (Seattle) to check this out. Went to attach a test lead to both the positive and the negative of the coil and the negative lead cracked out of the crimp connector. Looks like reattaching the wiring after the rebuild was the last straw for that section of the wire. Coiled it around the terminal and tightened it down, and it started right up! And then it proceeded to rain again.

Oh well, at some point I'll fix the wipers. And down the road, it looks like the wiring may need attention.

Thanks very much for your help!

Ian

Check for power at the + coil terminal with a test light or meter while cranking the engine. Check that the points are opening and closeing and that they are not dirty with oil or something.

 

[57CW]

Don's the man! Glad you found the bad wire culprit. :congrats: I always find these things when I am rewiring harnesses, heat under the hood has a lot to do with it, that's why the outside covering gets so brittle. When the rain let's up, crimp a new end on the wire.

:blowtiedb:

 

[v8media]

I was planing on re-crimping, but I was wondering, does it give a better contact? It's definitely cleaner looking than just wrapping the wire around the bolt, but it seems like wrapping might actually have metal from the wire getting contact.

Ian

Don's the man! Glad you found the bad wire culprit. :congrats: I always find these things when I am rewiring harnesses, heat under the hood has a lot to do with it, that's why the outside covering gets so brittle. When the rain let's up, crimp a new end on the wire.

:blowtiedb:

 

[Jim '57]

Ian,
I solder the connectors on when ever I can. Makes for better contact and less likely to come loose. Add a little shrink wrap and it looks clean.
Jim

 

[angs1957]

Soldered & crimped seems to work well