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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Posted earlier about this problem. Can drive 57 15 or20 miles and temp. is about half scale or a little over.Then when I slow down to turn into driveways , seem like when temp. gauge gets to a certain point it just goes all the way hot.Don't seem to be all that hot,not boiling or releiving psi. Have a 7 lb. psi cap, correct sending unit, alumiun shroud, and had rad. checked .
Original gauge, do you suppose the gauge is bad. Also running 180 thermosat.I bench tested gauge and worked o.k. Of course I know this is not like operating conditions.Guys any suggestions would be appreciated.
Have a blessed day,
bamagene
 

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Is the temp sensor an original or has it been replaced. We know now that many of the replacements are not properly calibrated for the stock gauges. If this is an after market gauge verify the overheat condition with an IR gun by shooting the radiator top hose and recording the temp to compare with your temp gauge reading. Resist the temptation to increase the radiator cap pressure at this time as the stock heater core isn't made to withstand the higher pressure especially if it's an old original core. Heater core failure is common when replacing these 7# caps for higher PSI.

The radiator fan should be about 3/4 of the way into the shroud.

Don
 

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I would temporarily hook up a mech temp gauge to verify what the temperature really is.....Then go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Don, ordered sender from eckersly and specified 57 chevy. I am getting the same reading on gauge that I did on a new one I bought from parts store.Guess I will try and read with a mechanical thermoter some way.
Thanks and have a blessed day,
Bamagene
 

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Just cause the sender is new and from Eckler's don't assume that it's correct. Many here have found their brand new senders don't work! Some guys will tape a meat thermometer to the top hose to read temp if they don't have or can't borrow an IR gun. Ask around at some of your local repair shops you may find a guy with and IR gun who will do it for you, it only takes a minute.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Don, do you have any idea where I could get an orignal sending unit. In fact I think the one eckersly sent me is just like the on I got from the parts store. Only difference was eck. charged me about 4 times as much as parts store did.
have a blessed day
bamagene
 

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Rock Auto is one source....Haven't heard anything negative about their sending unit.
 

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before you start swapping out parts verify the temps. Use the IR gun or a meat thermometer. If it is running hot then other courses of action will be required. If it is not running hot the sensor is probably incorrect. Check the temp first!

Don
 

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before you start swapping out parts verify the temps. Use the IR gun or a meat thermometer. If it is running hot then other courses of action will be required. If it is not running hot the sensor is probably incorrect. Check the temp first!...Don
X2....Good point Don:tu
 

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I was wondering what everyones thoughts were on an open radiator system verses a sealed radiator with a 7#cap. I am running the open system in my 55 running a 396 bbc and it gets hot in traffic but it overflows into the side container then sucks it back when the engine cools. Seems to work fine anyother time. Also have an Alum. rad.
 

· RIP 02-03-2022
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I was wondering what everyones thoughts were on an open radiator system verses a sealed radiator with a 7#cap. I am running the open system in my 55 running a 396 bbc and it gets hot in traffic but it overflows into the side container then sucks it back when the engine cools. Seems to work fine anyother time. Also have an Alum. rad.
I now have same set up......
:gba:
bowtie-trifive
 

· Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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If the system is not sealed at 7 to 16 psi, the coolent will boil at a lot lower temperature, which will cause it to overflow sooner. You can still have a sealed radiator and have a recovery tank where the coolent will suck back to the radiator. Why would you not want it pressurized?
 
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