*How many times should you need to bleed new brakes?

panelman said:

Tried the pressure bleeder and I failed. It started so well. Even with fluid in the jug, the rear reservoir still drained out completely. The pump also broke at 12 psi.

I tried to reach out to a "Corvette specialist" that I saw an ad for online, but they don't do house calls and are too far away. I don't know why this car needs to be so challenging.

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Was it a Motive Power Bleeder?

No, the Summit one.

panelman said:

No, the Summit one.

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I'm not sure who manufactured the Summit but my Motive has never failed me. I clamp the plate over the master cylinder using a big C-clamp instead of the chain and hook sent with it. I bleed one wheel at a time then top off the reservoir. I have never put brake fluid in the bottle. This routine has never failed me.

panelman said:

Tried the pressure bleeder and I failed. It started so well. Even with fluid in the jug, the rear reservoir still drained out completely. The pump also broke at 12 psi.

I tried to reach out to a "Corvette specialist" that I saw an ad for online, but they don't do house calls and are too far away. I don't know why this car needs to be so challenging.

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usually operator error.

Elijah said:

I'm not sure who manufactured the Summit but my Motive has never failed me. I clamp the plate over the master cylinder using a big C-clamp instead of the chain and hook sent with it. I bleed one wheel at a time then top off the reservoir. I have never put brake fluid in the bottle. This routine has never failed me.

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Interesting. Had I done it your way I probably would have been fine. I'm going to see if I can exchange mine for a Motive one.

panelman said:

Interesting. Had I done it your way I probably would have been fine. I'm going to see if I can exchange mine for a Motive one.

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Summit has the best customer service andI think they will work with you. My best to you!!! Elijah

I would get an air-powered OTC vacuum bleeder. I've been using one for 20 years and it works great, even bleeding a complete dry system on several vehicles. I have a Motive pressure bleeder too, which is needed on some newer vehicles, but on stuff like you are working on the vac bleeder has always worked first try. There are many other little tricks I've learned, like using a bottle of brake fluid stood up in the reservoir to auto-fill it while bleeding.

55 Rescue Dog said:

I would get an air-powered OTC vacuum bleeder. I've been using one for 20 years and it works great, even bleeding a complete dry system on several vehicles. I have a Motive pressure bleeder too, which is needed on some newer vehicles, but on stuff like you are working on the vac bleeder has always worked first try. There are many other little tricks I've learned, like using a bottle of brake fluid stood up in the reservoir to auto-fill it while bleeding.

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That's what I have, the air powered vacuum. has never failed me

I'm going to have to pay someone for this job I think

panelman said:

I'm going to have to pay someone for this job I think

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patience grasshopper---you can do it.

I ordered a new one. Stay tuned.

The one I made from a garden sprayer was supposed to have fluid in it to keep the reservoir full. It worked, but after a few uses it started to leak at the fittings I have passing through the master cylinder cap, so now I just use it to pressurize the system and push the fluid through being careful to not run the reservoir dry. It only takes about 5 lbs. of pressure in my case. I use it on my daily driver ‘99 Silverado that had lines rotting out.

wagonman100 said:

, so now I just use it to pressurize the system and push the fluid through being careful to not run the reservoir dry. It only takes about 5 lbs. of pressure in my case.

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This is exactly what I do except I pressurize to 15 psi.

I had watched a YT video and the guy, as well as the instructions that came with the tool, said to fill the jug with up to 2 qts of fluid. I figured it would not drain out with that process in place. Thankfully it was only the back reservoir! I will take a crack at it again this week, mainly bc having the car towed to a shop will only make me more mad at this issue, lol

Alright, I am getting the car out tonight and trying this again. Stay tuned.

There is no way I would fill it with 2 quarts. I would just start off with a pint, because you need to run it down to below the top of the reservoir to disconnect it, unless you want a big mess. Try it before adding a bunch of expensive brake fluid.

OK so the good news:

1. The new tool works about 90%. The air pressure makes the gauge glass pop off, lol
2. I have bled the rear brakes tonight, and am not seeing leaks anywhere
3. I took off tomorrow so I will be continuing with the fronts then
4. I drove it and the brakes feel better, but not perfect. Will try again after bleeding the fronts.

The not so good:

1. The "brake" light on the dash is staying on. Is that from low brake pressure OR the e brake? I know that the e brake isn't stuck.

The light means the shuttle valve in the proportioning valve has moved from center. This happens when there is a sudden rush of fluid to the front or back, like a broken line. It is designed to shuttle and close off whichever line saw the rush of fluid so you can still have some brakes. It also triggers that light. You might have pressed the pedal down quick when a bleeder was opened. The valve needs to be re-centered. Look at these video and see if it helps.

Def getting better. That light has been going off. No leaks. Looks like I will need to go around again, though.

panelman said:

Def getting better. That light has been going off. No leaks. Looks like I will need to go around again, though.

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Good to hear progress. That valve should re-center itself when all the air is gone and the pressures equalize again. Looks like it is the case if it is going off. Sometimes they get stuck.