Sometimes air hangs out in calipers. Hit you calipers with a large plastic hammer around the sides and let it set a while. See if you get anymore air out. If you let the M/C run dry, it might be a IA without a pressure bleeder.
Sometimes air hangs out in calipers. Hit you calipers with a large plastic hammer around the sides and let it set a while. See if you get anymore air out. If you let the M/C run dry, it might be a IA without a pressure bleeder.
If the master cylinder ran dry, you will have to bench bleed it. You can do it on the car by disconnecting the lines and installing fittings and hoses directed back into the reservoir and gently pumping the pedal until there are no more bubbles. Then reconnect the lines and bleed the brakes as normal starting with the furthest wheel from the master cylinder.and working to the closest. It should take no more than one pass if you do it until you see no bubbles coming out of the bleeders. I usually put a clear vinyl hose on the bleeder and hold the end in a jar with the end of the hose submersed in some brake fluid. A pressure bleeder does make the job easier and a one person job. I made one out of a garden sprayer and a spare master cylinder lid and some fittings. You can look up how to do it on YouTube.
I recently sold a C3 Vette that I had owned for close to 10 years and brake bleeding that car was far different than anything else I had owned. A power bleeder is your friend with a Vette and lifting the rear end of the car so the master is level was another great tip that I found out about.
Interesting on making it level! I had not heard that before. At this point I'll try anything. Don't understand how this car's brakes are so different!!
And thank you also to the poster who mentioned the extra bleeders on the back wheels. I did catch those, thankfully!
Thanks all for the info. I'm not sure if I am willing to spend 60 bucks on a pressure bleeder that will sit on my shelf forever once I'm past this debacle. I also don't have the gift of making one out of a garden sprayer, so I'll have to ponder on that one
Oh I know that one well! I remember learning early on that a regular GM part would be the same as a Vette part but they would give it a different part number to charge more :O
Unless you have a new master cylinder you need to replace that. Took me a gallon of fluid to figure that out on a C3 I had long ago after rebuilding the calipers. The seal gets trashed when you bottom it out in a rusty cylinder.
Wanted to make sure I gave credit where credit was due- although it may not have been the "only" problem in this scenario, the mechanic who currently has this car got the brakes working again, but had to replace both the MC AND brake booster! Not sure why the booster needed to be replaced, as it was relatively new from what I know, but, at least it's fixed now. Thanks, 55RD!!!
It worked best for me in an attempt to get the best pedal possible. There is a great article detailing this on the Corvette Forum. It is titled “Get the last bit of air out from the master cylinder”. I tried to copy the link for you on my smart phone but failed.
Tried the pressure bleeder and I failed. It started so well. Even with fluid in the jug, the rear reservoir still drained out completely. The pump also broke at 12 psi.
I tried to reach out to a "Corvette specialist" that I saw an ad for online, but they don't do house calls and are too far away. I don't know why this car needs to be so challenging.
Tried the pressure bleeder and I failed. It started so well. Even with fluid in the jug, the rear reservoir still drained out completely. The pump also broke at 12 psi.
I tried to reach out to a "Corvette specialist" that I saw an ad for online, but they don't do house calls and are too far away. I don't know why this car needs to be so challenging.
I'm not sure who manufactured the Summit but my Motive has never failed me. I clamp the plate over the master cylinder using a big C-clamp instead of the chain and hook sent with it. I bleed one wheel at a time then top off the reservoir. I have never put brake fluid in the bottle. This routine has never failed me.
I would get an air-powered OTC vacuum bleeder. I've been using one for 20 years and it works great, even bleeding a complete dry system on several vehicles. I have a Motive pressure bleeder too, which is needed on some newer vehicles, but on stuff like you are working on the vac bleeder has always worked first try. There are many other little tricks I've learned, like using a bottle of brake fluid stood up in the reservoir to auto-fill it while bleeding.
The one I made from a garden sprayer was supposed to have fluid in it to keep the reservoir full. It worked, but after a few uses it started to leak at the fittings I have passing through the master cylinder cap, so now I just use it to pressurize the system and push the fluid through being careful to not run the reservoir dry. It only takes about 5 lbs. of pressure in my case. I use it on my daily driver ‘99 Silverado that had lines rotting out.
, so now I just use it to pressurize the system and push the fluid through being careful to not run the reservoir dry. It only takes about 5 lbs. of pressure in my case.
I had watched a YT video and the guy, as well as the instructions that came with the tool, said to fill the jug with up to 2 qts of fluid. I figured it would not drain out with that process in place. Thankfully it was only the back reservoir! I will take a crack at it again this week, mainly bc having the car towed to a shop will only make me more mad at this issue, lol
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