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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HI GUYS

i installed wolverine cam 323/329, 257/270, .493”/.512”, 112/108, .022”/.024” lash. i need some info about how to adjust the lash on this solid cam on my 327 .

thanks
 

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When 1 intake is starting to open adj both on 6, when 8 intake is starting to open do both on 5,etc.

When 6 intake is opening do both on 1, when 5 intake is opening do both on 8and so forth.

I actually learned this proceedure from a Wolverine dealer. I think they are gone now.
 

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The method I use is similar.

Remove valve covers, turn engine by hand till you see the #1 intake run its cycle, keep turning engine until dampener reads TDC, set both valves on #1, turn engine 90 degrees, adjust both on #8, turn engine another 90 degrees, adjust both on #4, and just keep turning 90 degrees adjusting the next cylinder in the firing order.
Firing order: 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2. Unless you bought a 4-7 swap cam, then obviously swap those two.

Good luck

Clint
 

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HI GUYS

i installed wolverine cam 323/329, 257/270, .493”/.512”, 112/108, .022”/.024” lash. i need some info about how to adjust the lash on this solid cam on my 327 .

thanks
Years ago when I had a solid lift cam the lash was set with the engine 'hot' as compared to a cold engine.
What does your instructions say?
 

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The method I use is similar.

Remove valve covers, turn engine by hand till you see the #1 intake run its cycle, keep turning engine until dampener reads TDC, set both valves on #1, turn engine 90 degrees, adjust both on #8, turn engine another 90 degrees, adjust both on #4, and just keep turning 90 degrees adjusting the next cylinder in the firing order.
Firing order: 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2. Unless you bought a 4-7 swap cam, then obviously swap those two.

Good luck

Clint
X2
 

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When 1 intake is starting to open adj both on 6, when 8 intake is starting to open do both on 5,etc.

When 6 intake is opening do both on 1, when 5 intake is opening do both on 8and so forth.

I actually learned this proceedure from a Wolverine dealer. I think they are gone now.
people have tried to do it 100 other ways but this is for sure my best and most accurate!!! This also works out to be every quarter turn of the motor!!
 

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I wasn't even going to read this because I figured this was well known stuff but nobody has even posted a correct way let alone the best way. :eek:

So here goes.

Rotate the engine until the #1 exhaust valve (or whichever intake you want to set) is starting to open. Set the #1 intake valve.

Rotate the engine until the #1 intake valve (or whichever exhaust you want to set) is about to close. Set the #1 exhaust valve.

Then you can move to the next cylinder's valves.

The beauty of this method is that it works on any 4 stroke cycle engine. It doesn't matter how many cylinders, how they are arranged, how they are numbered, what the firing order is, how big or small your camshaft is, any type of lifter, you don't have to have the balancer marked - it works on all of them.

You can start with any cylinder. You can go through the firing order. You can go down one bank of a V8 then the other. You can set all the intakes first, then the exhausts. It doesn't matter. All you have to do is know when you've done them all.

This method assures that when you set the valve, the lifter is on the base circle.

Setting them at TDC does NOT do that! So that method is incorrect.

As far as cold and hot, you have to set them cold the first time to be able to start the engine. Depending on your head (cast iron or aluminum) and valve train, the lash can either close up or grow when the engine warms up. Once you've done a certain setup cold and hot, you can estimate where to set them cold to get the right lash when hot. Then all you have to do is set them cold, and a quick check when hot.

This method is one I've used for almost 40 years and has served me well, and always will.
 

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opinions vary I guess!! However that is a good way to go about it... What I like to do when I find a new method of valve adjust is proove against my previous method.. More often than not it is usually a wash. Basically there are other ways to skin that cat!!
 

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I wasn't even going to read this because I figured this was well known stuff but nobody has even posted a correct way let alone the best way. :eek:

So here goes.

Rotate the engine until the #1 exhaust valve (or whichever intake you want to set) is starting to open. Set the #1 intake valve.

Rotate the engine until the #1 intake valve (or whichever exhaust you want to set) is about to close. Set the #1 exhaust valve.

Then you can move to the next cylinder's valves.

The beauty of this method is that it works on any 4 stroke cycle engine. It doesn't matter how many cylinders, how they are arranged, how they are numbered, what the firing order is, how big or small your camshaft is, any type of lifter, you don't have to have the balancer marked - it works on all of them.

You can start with any cylinder. You can go through the firing order. You can go down one bank of a V8 then the other. You can set all the intakes first, then the exhausts. It doesn't matter. All you have to do is know when you've done them all.

This method assures that when you set the valve, the lifter is on the base circle.

Setting them at TDC does NOT do that! So that method is incorrect.

As far as cold and hot, you have to set them cold the first time to be able to start the engine. Depending on your head (cast iron or aluminum) and valve train, the lash can either close up or grow when the engine warms up. Once you've done a certain setup cold and hot, you can estimate where to set them cold to get the right lash when hot. Then all you have to do is set them cold, and a quick check when hot.

This method is one I've used for almost 40 years and has served me well, and always will.
This is the way and the ONLY way we set are race engines, the lifter is for sure on the base circle.
 

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The method I use is similar.

Remove valve covers, turn engine by hand till you see the #1 intake run its cycle, keep turning engine until dampener reads TDC, set both valves on #1, turn engine 90 degrees, adjust both on #8, turn engine another 90 degrees, adjust both on #4, and just keep turning 90 degrees adjusting the next cylinder in the firing order.
Firing order: 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2. Unless you bought a 4-7 swap cam, then obviously swap those two.

Good luck

Clint
x3 pretty much fool proof no guess work and you only have to rotate the engine 2 total revolutions.:tu
 

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You can;t say x3 is fool proof....The average guy dosen't no what the ramps are,, if a cam has VERY long clearance ramps that are .020" high or whatever and at TDC for any cylinder, both the intake and exhaust valve for that cylinder are still on their ramps, NOT on the cam's base circle, http://cranecams.com/?show=adjustingValveTrain I'll stick with my way, Rick L and crane, Comp says do it the same, thats why your missing the valve adjustment on some cams and wiping them out on new start ups.
 

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You can;t say x3 is fool proof....The average guy dosen't no what the ramps are,, if a cam has VERY long clearance ramps that are .020" high or whatever and at TDC for any cylinder, both the intake and exhaust valve for that cylinder are still on their ramps, NOT on the cam's base circle, http://cranecams.com/?show=adjustingValveTrain I'll stick with my way, Rick L and crane, Comp says do it the same, thats why your missing the valve adjustment on some cams and wiping them out on new start ups.
Your chucking the lifter because you adjusted it on the clearance ramps.
 

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The only comment I have about Crane's recommendation on aluminum head/iron block engines is that .006" is not what I've seen. It's more like .002" - .003" but whatever, you need to check when it's warm regardless, and if you are paying attention you'll know what to do next time to get it close enough not to re-adjust them all. You probably will have to re-adjust a few.

To those of you who say the TDC method only requires two revolutions, well so what? My method only requires that also if you plan for it. Do you want to get it right or do you want to flat rate it?

The right way to me is to have a decent bolt fastening the balancer. I like the ones that have a 1" hex so that your socket doesn't fall off or round the bolt head. Turn the engine by hand. I like a LONG handle rachet, but a breaker bar will do. Spark plugs out helps. Attention to small details avoids problems and adds precision.
 

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The only comment I have about Crane's recommendation on aluminum head/iron block engines is that .006" is not what I've seen. It's more like .002" - .003" but whatever, you need to check when it's warm regardless, and if you are paying attention you'll know what to do next time to get it close enough not to re-adjust them all. You probably will have to re-adjust a few.

To those of you who say the TDC method only requires two revolutions, well so what? My method only requires that also if you plan for it. Do you want to get it right or do you want to flat rate it?

The right way to me is to have a decent bolt fastening the balancer. I like the ones that have a 1" hex so that your socket doesn't fall off or round the bolt head. Turn the engine by hand. I like a LONG handle rachet, but a breaker bar will do. Spark plugs out helps. Attention to small details avoids problems and adds precision.
I know it might seem a little tedious,but in my application i also like to roll the plugs out to make it a little easier on the rotation....maybe a little overkill,but it works for me!!!
 

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Wheres your clearance ramps at TDC? Short- Long?

Warning:

"Tight Lash" camshafts cannot deviate from the recommended hot lash setting by more than +.002" increase, or -.004" decrease. "Tight Lash" cams are those which have recommended valve settings of only .010", .012", or .014" on the specification card. These lobe designs have very short clearance ramps and cannot tolerate any increase in the recommended valve lash. The extra clearance can cause severe damage to valve train components.

With "Tight Lash" cams, we recommend using only the prescribed amount of hot valve lash, and that close inspection of the engine be maintained. Please realize that changing valve lash settings from the recommended design specifications will change the harmonic characteristics of the valve train, possibly causing valve spring deterioration and breakage..+.002" increase, or -.004" decrease! guess you better get it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
thanks rick . i can see there few ways to set the lash on an engine . i like your way . i will try it first and go from there . thanks for all you who tried to help me .I learn something new evryday.

AL
 

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And your lash setting is not "god-send required", you can tighten those up a bit, but I would not go no less than .019,, Keeps the valve on the seat just a bit longer to transfer that valve face heat, and adds bottom end power. Makes for a nice crisp idle and sound.

You could go equal .019 on both intake and exhaust lash.
FWIW
 
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