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Maybe the title is confusing but what I'm asking is how do I determine what the original engine hp rating is for a particular car? Is there a alpha/numerical number in the VIN or body tag or someplace else that would show this?

I'm looking at a '57 that is suppose to be a 2x4 car but how can I verify this?

I know that the engine pad should show this but re-stamping may occur.

I'm not a numbers matching guy but the price of correct verses counterfeit
would be a bargaining point.

I'm going to look at the car this weekend.

Thanks
Red
 

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A start would be the front pad numbers as well as the engine block number.

Also take note of the vin tag to identify if the car was V8 equipped.

There would be other things like diff ratio and transmission.
 

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From the info that I have chevy produced seven 283 engs. that had the 2x4 carb setup for the 57 and those engs. had the following suffix codes on the front pad.
1- 283 2x4 PG- code FD
2- 283 " " " - " FG
3- 283 " " - " EH
4- 283 " " Hi lift cam- EG
5- 283 " " Turboglide -GD
6- 283 " " Hi lift cam -EB
7- 283 " " - - - - - - EA
Hope this helps,:anim_25:
Big Bob:flag4::bowtieb:
 

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You will ask the seller if it is an original or reproduction and analyze his reaction with respect to his normal behavior, therefore you will first establish a normal baseline with normal conversation topics and then simple questions about other details of the car, kind of like a lie detector tester does.

You will want to review the 1956-1957 NCRS Corvette Technical Information Manual and Judging Guide, Fifth Edition that discusses engine pad stampings. You will examine the longitudinal deck broach marks with a loupe to determine if they were produced by a file or a broach cutting tool. Also, compare the style of the stamped characters with known originals and the various lengths of the gang stamped character groupings with the lengths of known original groupings. Any changes in the depth of characters that were supposed to have been gang stamped. You will also examine each character with a loupe to note the condition of the bottom sharpness of the stamped character, the stamped sides or surfaces and the ridges at the top of the stamp, the angle of the stamp impression and the corrosion on that surface.

The two better known engine rebuilders that specialize in counterfeiting original deck stampings typically don't get it right, with more blatant errors on the older restampings. And it takes only one microscopic detail to discredit the entire assembly.

You need to do this before you buy because when it comes time to sell you can expect the serious buyer to do it again.
 
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