Chevy Tri Five Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
483 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, read the previous posts on solid lifter cams and hydraulics. I'm getting ready to pull my SBC to put on Edelbrock heads, switch from single plane intake to dual plane, side motor mounts, headers, 700R4 install, etc. I know it's a solid lifter cam with a lopy idle, and that's all I know about it. Would you spend the extra money to put in a new hydraulic cam/lifters or run this? The car is just a cruiser.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,668 Posts
OK, read the previous posts on solid lifter cams and hydraulics. I'm getting ready to pull my SBC to put on Edelbrock heads, switch from single plane intake to dual plane, side motor mounts, headers, 700R4 install, etc. I know it's a solid lifter cam with a lopy idle, and that's all I know about it. Would you spend the extra money to put in a new hydraulic cam/lifters or run this? The car is just a cruiser.
a new hydraulic,

I like solids, but Id run Hydraulic , less adjusting lifters every now and then, for u.
Just dont for get to add ZDDP and brake cam shaft in right :anim_25:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,075 Posts
I recommend a hydraulic cam, I ran an off-street 302 solid lifter for awhile, they can hear you coming before the see you, but it sure was a lot of trouble keeping it adjusted. Maybe with polylocks or whatever is out there now, it may be OK. A good high lift hydraulic and Flowmasters, you got the great sound. Charles :wavey:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
HYD would be your best choice but if you could go with a HYD roller that would be your best choice as it would take the chance of wiping a lobe out of the equation.

If you do go with a HYD flat tappet order a P-55 cam core they are a little more money but its a harder cam core and I have always used the GM lifters as they are the only lifter with a steel bottom. Becarefull as there seem to be some off shore lifters floating around out there.

Good luck with your build.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,275 Posts
I am old school solid cams rule I run a Duntov in my 67 Camaro SS350 and a 425hp /427 in my 396 in my 55. The Camaro has been together since 91 and the only readjust was when the 2.02 heads went on a few years ago. Like my machine shop guy say if you are constantly having to readjust you either have a part going away or you are not doing something right. I love the sound of solid lifters, I would like to find a solid cam similar to the 350 hp 327 hyd I run in my 56. Its not broke I just dont like wimpy stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
483 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys! I was leaning at replacing it, but not sure on the outlay for a hydraulic roller. On the other hand, concerned about wiping a cam due to today's oil. Decisions, decisions....my head.....

PS. Anybody running a Comp Cams Thumper cam?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
bfr, I am installing a roller thumper in my new engine build this will be my second one I sure like them a lot. The engine needs to be built to mate right with the cam and not just toss any old cam in there. You need a lot of information to make the right cam choice. Some of the information you should have is Static Compression Ratio, CC's of the head, Deck height, pistons etc. With one of the critical things being the Static Compression Ratio. The point is, you need to know what the static compression ratio of the motor is before you can intelligently choose a camshaft. The intake valve closing point, which is ground into the camshaft at the time of manufacture, is designed to work with a certain static compression ratio. If the valve closes too late, there is insufficient mixture trapped to make good cylinder pressure and the motor is a **&&. If the valve closes too early, there may be too much cylinder pressure and the motor will detonate and destroy itself in short order.

A lot should go into a cam choice for good results. Its simple not want you want, its what the motor wants and "NEEDS".

Roland
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Also bfr, You mention the cost of a Hyd Roller. Well there are sure not as cost friendly as flat tappet cams thats for sure. I have seen some lifters going for $600.00 bucks a set. However there is an American Cam producer making lifters ---quality lifters-- right here in the USA, and selling them for a real good price. His cams are very good as well Check out "Howards Cam"

http://www.howardscams.com/

Roland
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
Also bfr, You mention the cost of a Hyd Roller. Well there are sure not as cost friendly as flat tappet cams thats for sure. I have seen some lifters going for $600.00 bucks a set. However there is an American Cam producer making lifters ---quality lifters-- right here in the USA, and selling them for a real good price. His cams are very good as well Check out "Howards Cam"

http://www.howardscams.com/

Roland
Howards does not make their own lifters as they are reboxed and I am pretty sure they are using the Morels which is a top of the line lifter as we use a lot of the Morell roller lifters both hyd. and solid with zero problems.

We see alot of other brands that seem to be under size on their bodies like a .001 which will put you at .0025 to .003 on lifter bore clearance depending on the lifter bore size.

GM's spec for lifter bore size is .8438 to .8443 We just had a set of ISKY red zones show up from a customer and the smallest lifter were right at .8412 and the lifter bore were right at 8442 and the lifter bore clearance is at .003 which is to much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
483 Posts
the duntov is just a factory z28 cam if I am not mistaken. has longer clearance ramps (and thus shorter time on base circle) so it does take a little more care in setting lash - one cyl at a time absolutely on base circle - rather than the 8 valves 180 degrees apart method. Profile wise other cams with faster ramps get the same overall effect and in some aspects can be better - but for a purist I agree its not like others!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
483 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I probably know the answer to this, but what about Jegs and Summit branded cams & lifters? Jegs advertises USA made and a kit runs $90. Is it a case of you get what you pay for?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
483 Posts
Seen more of those rebrandeds wipe the #8 exhaust than any other brand (I think the manufactureres off the ones that mis depth the nitriding, run slightly off on grind etc as a way to recapture their waste factor - of course they follow a tolerance but then you are buying at the low end of the tolerance. To me cam is not a tolerance item but a definative spec! I personally liked Schneiders- Mr Cantrell is an awesome guy to work with, but that may just be me and I have been out of building for 15 years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
hello,
the solid lifter z/28 cam is like the duntov 30-30 cam. if you are building a nice cruising machine i would give the original duntov 097 consideration.
i have used both the 30-30 and the 097 and for a mild motor the 30-30 is a little much, especially for cruising...the 097 with a set of good heads will run and rev well with little problems. idle lope has a nice sound as well.
i think there is a general misconception about solids needing a lot "more" maintenance...if adjusted properly only routine maintenance is required and it is not a big deal in my opinion...as stated in an earlier post if you are adjusting frequently there is another issue at play.
097, a nice little grind even if if others do it as well or better..nothing wrong with old school as it is where new school got its lessons!
regards, aero
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
CNC, You are right about Howards lifters being Morels. After seeing your post I called Howards Cams and asked them, they told me that the lifters were Morels and made in Tennesse. Thats actually cool with me, I have used 17 sets of these lifters along with Howards cams. I simply got tired of the problems with Flat Tappet camshafts, and I have gone to all Roller Cams. Since I did that I have not had a single cam failure, not a one.

Now I am not a Machinist as you are, just an guy who builds Hot Rods. When I find a product ANY product that gives me good service and is relatively problem free I'm a happy guy and never look back.

Roland
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
CNC, You are right about Howards lifters being Morels. After seeing your post I called Howards Cams and asked them, they told me that the lifters were Morels and made in Tennesse. Thats actually cool with me, I have used 17 sets of these lifters along with Howards cams. I simply got tired of the problems with Flat Tappet camshafts, and I have gone to all Roller Cams. Since I did that I have not had a single cam failure, not a one.

Now I am not a Machinist as you are, just an guy who builds Hot Rods. When I find a product ANY product that gives me good service and is relatively problem free I'm a happy guy and never look back.

Roland
You won't have no issues with those lifters as they are leak down tested at the factory.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
solid or hydraulic

I had a 68 chevelle in high school with rhodes solid lifters I believe, they kinda sound like a tractor at idle but they are cool, but you do have to adjust them more than hydraulic. So if you want a cruiser that you dont have to mess with the lifters then would go with hydraulic :)
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top