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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Back ground: I am using Earl Williams Engine mounts (for a SBC in the original engine mounting position, not the 3/4 forward.) and using a setup of aluminum adapter plates (that have numerous holes move the engine forward or backward) using the 2nd from front most holes.

The vertical space between the front of the oil pan and the cross member is ~3/4 to a 1 inch. Note that I did pound down the portion of the raised cross member to gain extra clearance....

Right now the engine sits really close to the firewall. Maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch on the drivers side. Plus letting the engine rest on the firewall it engine barely tilted back.

So when I went to put on the QuickTime bell housing, I it appears that the top part of the T56 Magnum is going to be but up against the firewall (that's in front of the pinch weld). Note that I do not have the typical QuickTime 6023, but the 6023PB which adds a I think like a 3/4 inch in length. (I believe this is where the issue is)

First thought is that I raise the portion of the trans tunnel to gain a extra 1/2 ~1 inch. But I have concerns that my carpet will not handle the extra girth of the trans tunnel.

Second through was to cut the mounts again and lower them 1/2 inch..

Third thought is that I am going to see about swapping the Earl Williams mounts to use the 3/4 forward position, then maybe using the front most hole. I think that this will move the engine up ~1/2 inch total.

I don't know if that will give me the additional clearance that I need. I know it will allow the engine to tip backwards more providing a more accessible angel to mate up the trans, then raise it...

Here are some pics of the oil pan clearance


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2nd issue is I have Hedman Hedders 45610 being shipped in.
When positioning the engine forward/back in the engine bay I was going off of a pic of timberland's install from this thread. Long tube header recommendation
I kind of matched up my 2nd exhaust port opening against the CCP 500. I am thinking that moving forward a bit will not cause interference with headers.

Mine
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His
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Can some of you tell me what they have for clearances between the drivers side head (the portion with the head number on it)???
I know when I tried to put the passengers side coil bracket on, it was hitting the firewall to where I would have to shave off ~1/8 inch or lease in order to get the mounting holes to line up.
I am thinking that moving the engine up 1/2 to 3/4 may not be a bad thing if it does not mess with the headers... Yet then I need to be concerned if I'll have enough room for the intake tube.
Is it me is the engine bay on these cares small?
 

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When I put a t56 in my 56 with the LS 3/4" forward it was necessary to raise the entire top of the tunnel 11/2-2" extending past the seam of the floor & firewall & back past the tailhousing & main case where they bolt together then taper back into the floor & it just missed hitting the floor at the rear shift position. I would suggest removing the entire top of the tunnel wider that the t56 so you can get the rear of the trans high enough to get the necessary 3.5-4* down angle of the output shaft. Once that's set you can fabricate a cover to either weld in or better yet make removable. My replacement carpet fit fine & after switching back to a auto another new carpet fit fine also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Last night I realized that moving the engine forward may interfere with the cross arm for the steering linkage and the oil pan. Just measured it (with the wheels straight), and it's just shy of 3 inches between the two...
Does anyone know about how much will the linkage move back with the wheels fully turned? (Otherwise I'll have to figure a way to lift the front wheels on the lift and test).
 

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It's probably between 1/2" and 3/4".

Not having the rear of the transmission high enough is going to cause other problems such as bad angles in the driveline/u-joints. Another potential problem is running out of room up front for intake tube clearance or even accessory drive clearance. I'd recommend cutting the tunnel and raising the back of the transmission to where the engine/transmission angle to the frame is the factory 4°.
 

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Which oil pan are you using? The Holley 302-1 or its knock off should clear in either stock or 3/4 forward without issue.GM swap pan it's also for the H2 hummer I'm running that pan but i'd recommend the Holley as the GM hangs 2" below the cross member. My car is lowered 2" in front & Ive never made contact but I now have the Holley pan sitting on the shelf just haven't decided if the pan will come off in the car.
 

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Otherwise I'll have to figure a way to lift the front wheels on the lift and test).
The drag link will not move with the wheels off the the floor.
It describes the same arc, regardless.
If it clears, it's good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have the TSP - Holley 302-1 knock off. It hangs just a hair below the steering linkage, but above the bottom of the cross member. The QuickTime bellhousing hangs below the crossmember.

Rick, you make a good point about driveline angle.

I am still tempted to go with moving the motor mounts (into the 3/4 forward position,) giving more room behind the engine and for the coil packs. Yet I need to conscious of not pulling the driveshaft yoke out too far unless I want to lengthen my driveshaft. Before, the driveshaft yoke extended out 3/4 of a inch. I am guess a 1.5 inch would be too fat out. Would 1.25 of a inch out too far out.

Rethinking the engine mounts, 3/4, then using the forward most holes would move it back 1/2 inch gaining 1/4 inch forward. Maybe that's the route. Either it appears I need to cut the trans tunnel.
 

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How do you already have the driveshaft? You haven't even established where the engine and trans is going to be. The driveshaft should be the last thing in the driveline you buy.

I agree with Rick_L, set the engine as far back as you can, to ensure you have room for the air intake tube and the electric fan(s).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How do you already have the driveshaft? You haven't even established where the engine and trans is going to be. The driveshaft should be the last thing in the driveline you buy.

I agree with Rick_L, set the engine as far back as you can, to ensure you have room for the air intake tube and the electric fan(s).
I had the T56 behind the SBC.
Reusing the tranny, bellhousing and hopefully the driveshaft.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Forgot to add that the radiator will reside in the 6 cylinder location. Just did a quick measure. I have 11 inches between the driver's side head and radiator support.

And yes in normal circumstances the driveshaft should be purchased AFTER all this.

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