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I need help getting my 1967 Impala ready for paint!

6K views 20 replies 12 participants last post by  mpick67 
#1 ·
Let me first introduce myself. My name is Michael and I'm currently trying to get my 1967 Impala ready for paint (black). I don't know that much about prepping a car for paint and need your advice. Here are my questions:

Before: http://s896.photobucket.com/albums/ac163/mpick67/After/

After I stripped the paint: http://s896.photobucket.com/albums/ac163/mpick67/1967 Impala 9-12-2010/

1. I stripped my car down to bare metal using Aircraft Remover in an effort to make prep work easier for me or the body shop I take my car to. Should I sand the car in order to get it smooth. or is this unnecessary as there are 2 rust spots that are going to have to be cut out and fixed by a body shop before I begin sanding. Also, does all old bondo have to come out of the car before I sand the car and send it to paint?

2. This car is not running so I'm kind of limited to what I can do with it. I either plan on towing it to a local Maaco, (that has good reviews) but I have reservations because I heard the only way to get a "good" paint job is to have all the prep work done yourself. Since I'm very limited to what I know and can do on my own I feel like I have no real choice except bring it in and have them fix the 2 rust spots and finish prepping my car before paint. Maaco said they could prep the car and take care of the rust issues if I paid extra. I also plan on getting their best paint: "Signature Series"

3. Looking at the pictures of this car after being stripped with the Aircraft Remover. How much work do you think has to be done before I'm ready for paint? Do you think my best option is to just pay Maaco to fix the 2 rust spots and do the prep and paint? Or do you think I'm about to make a horrible mistake? Thanks, Mike :confused0006:
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Read the very recent post on Maaco. You get what you pay for. Body work needs to be done by someone else. Car is stripped, but how straight is it and what does it need. What are your expectations (ugly, driver, show)? If it is not straight, the best painter in the world does not have a chance of making it look good. ALL depends on your expectations. Lazer straight, show quality is what we all want, but at what price? You are at the primer, block sanding point and then how many $$$s you can afford. Just my thoughts, Mike. My expectations are way below that of many rides on this site, but love the saying "Good enough for the girl I run with". Regards Lloyd
 
#3 ·
I have to agree with Lloyd on this Mike. You do get what you pay for. Prep work is the most important part of a paint job. thats what i've been told. And you are planning on painting her BLACK?? Then you better really make sure that your prep work is done right. JMO
 
#4 ·
Michael, You have made a lot of work for yourself. First off you need to go ahead and pull the trim pieces, and door handles off, because now there will be residue from the stripper behind them that will cause you serious problems later. Then get busy sanding. The other problem you've created, the stripper may have attacked any bondo on the car. Get it as good as you can then address the rust issues. Growing up my Mom had a 67 Caprice 4 door 396 car, beautiful car. Good Luck
 
#5 ·
As mentioned... Stripper on bondo = bad bondo.
Be sure that the stripper is 100% neutralized B4 U do any sanding. If not, you'll just smear the stripper residue and it WILL kill the primer and anything else you attempt to spray over it.
A stripped car will not get "smooth" by sanding on it.
BLACK??? As mentioned, it better be RIGHT, or it'll look like @#%@.

Bottom line: Clean it up, go over it w/ 180 and a d/a. Clean it, and prime w/ epoxy primer...Take it to someone w/ the tools and experience to "git'r done".. MACCO is not that place, IMO.
 
#6 ·
Looking at that rust, I guarantee that the damage goes way beyond what you can see.

First, the rear window has to come out. The pinch weld has rust damage. I'd take the windshield out too You may have damage there as well.

The fenders have to come off. There is rust between the sheetmetal and inner braces. Both will have rust damage.

On the rear, I also suspect that there is rust damage between where the inner wheelhouses meet the quarter panel. Both will have rust damage. This is a major repair job to do right.

I also suspect that there may be problems in other areas of the car. This is more typical than not with a car that shows rust like this.

This car needs MAJOR body work to be done right. It's going to cost A LOT to have it done. There's no way this car is worth that kind of investment. I like '67s. I had one a lot like that car myself and they are nice. But the fact is, you could buy a car without rust for significantly less than it would cost to repair the rust in that car correctly.

For you to do the work by yourself, you need to have a lot of knowledge and tools that you don't have yet. You are either going to need a lot of guidance by someone experienced or you should take some auto body classes.
 
#7 ·
Mike,

I have to agree with Roger on this one. Just because a car is old doesn't mean it should be restored. I would do some research as to what this car's value is in restored condition. You may find that you will have way over it's market value into the body and paint work alone. Even if you get a cheap Macco paint job (oh boy!), rust restoration isn't cheap! Next you will find that every bright piece that you put back on after painting the car will only make it look worse, so you will need to start changing things like door handles and bumpers etc. So unless this is Grandma's car that's been left to you and has real sentimental value, you really need to think long and hard about this project. If you decide to move forward with this know that there is nothing worse than a wavy black paint job. So be sure the body work is laser straight or pick another color. Black just makes poor body work more obvious.

If your expectations aren't high than I say go for it and enjoy. But remember, "Good work is not cheap, cheap work is not good".

Don
 
#8 ·
I know it sounds disapointing to you,but these guys are right.
If you plan to keep the car more than 3 or 4 years,spend the moiney now and get it done right.
I suspect you're making a "Supernatural" car?
In flat black?
That movie has driven the price of 67 4 door hardtops way up.
I have 2 67,2 door hardtops and 2 65's.
They are famous for the bad, hidden rust.
Mike.:)
 
#9 ·
I thought this might be of interest.

I bought this Impala from my brother when I was a senior in high school. He bought it from his boss who bought it new.

I took this photo in 1973 which was the year I graduated. I lived in Tucson so this car didn't even have a hint of rust. I sure wish I had it now but I had to have a '69 Camaro RS that a friend had for sale the following year. It was a 327/powerglide with factory air. Right now, I'd rather have the Impala back even more than the Camaro.

I used to love to put all the windows down since it was a hardtop. This is the best photo I have of it. I should've put the windows down for it.



Btw, that's my Dad's '72 Caprice in the background.
 
#11 ·
I plan on keeping this car for sometime so I'll just save up until I have enough $$$ to take it to a "real" body shop and have it done right. If anyone watches the show "Supernatural" you'll understand why I want this car restored so bad! I would like to thank everyone for taking the time to answer me. You guys are great! I'll post pictures when I get her painted (the right way! LOL) Thanks, Mike
 
#14 ·
I can't afford to do a "total" restoration, but I also don't want to skimp out on the paint job...:confused0006:
That glossy black in the pictures just looks to good! LOL :happy0030:
Rust is like cancer. If you don't get rid of it, it will continue to spread. That just makes matters worse down the road.

You have a major dilemma.
If you don't replace the metal that is rusted, and just try to patch things up by slapping bondo on it, any paint job you put on it will be spoiled in a short time.
In addition, if the rust isn't repaired properly in those areas around the windows, you will get water in the car.
 
#16 ·
I'd think long and hard about dumping a bunch of $$ into the body/rust repairs. Get some quotes from reputable body shops, then shop around for another car without the rust. You MAY find the other car to be cheaper. Then you can use the one you have as a parts/donor car then sell off what you don't use.

I think that car would cool in a Satin or Flat black as well. Most of the time it was dirty in the show anyway. lol
 
#17 · (Edited)
Update

Hello everyone! It's been a while! :wavey:

I ended up taking my Impala to local body shop that had good local reviews. I just have to bring it by the body shop for one more coat of black before the exterior is complete. I ended up putting in a newly rebuilt Chevy 327 engine that's producing 350 + hp. I also purchased all the interior material and weather stripping that I need to restore the interior. I thought about doing an interior color change to tan, like the tv show, but decided against it. (I like the black on black too much!) Here are some pictures of what it looks like right now. I also included a video! :tu

with engine


before engine






video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K1FsRihCJSE&feature=player_embedded

Cardomain page: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3834625/1967-chevrolet-impala/page-1
 
#20 ·
In the last picture, you can see where he put the paint on a little thin near the bottom of the front passengers side door. You can only see this in the direct sun light. I brought this to the body shops owners attention and he agreed to re-shoot it in a few weeks. So far, so good!
 
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