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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm doing a complete overhaul on the suspension of my '55.

Should I buy bushings and rebuild my idler arm or just buy a new one?
Who sells a good replacement idler arm?

Thanks
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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If the stud is in good shape, there's no reason to replace it. There is no moving parts.
 

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Rebuild! Its easy to do. No need to buy new unless yours is bent, incorrect, or otherwise damaged. You can use the stock rubber bushings, maybe urethane (i am not quite sure on that one) or if you want a little easier steering, use the bearing conversion kit. The conversion kits have been around for years, GM even had a version, and just within the last bunch of years, re-popped. I did the conversion, made a marked difference in manhandling the stock steering wheel and parallel parking, lol.
 

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When removing castle nut on my idler arm I cut into the threads. Is it safe to add weld to stud with my mig and use a die to make new threads?
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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When removing castle nut on my idler arm I cut into the threads. Is it safe to add weld to stud with my mig and use a die to make new threads?
I have a manual steer idler arm you can have for shipping. Is shipping a problem to Canada? I've never mailed anything to Canada.
 

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I found on mine, that once the bushing was removed, the shaft was eaten up w/ rust.
Put a new part, with the brgs on it.
 

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1957 210 two door sedan driver hot rod sbc stick
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If you are running wide soft compound radials and large sway bar and quick ratio steering box consider the upgrade to bearings to replace bushings in the idler arm. Ease of motion is a plus, accuracy in motion is the goal/result.
 

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I replaced my original idler arm and bushing, with a bearing conversion idler arm. Much less effort to steer. It comes down to cost/benefit. As I recall the a stock repro was about $45.00, And the bearing conversion idler arm was about $125.00. Well worth the extra cost for me.




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When removing castle nut on my idler arm I cut into the threads. Is it safe to add weld to stud with my mig and use a die to make new threads?
a die will not cut threads on a weld the weld is too hard and will fail the die. if it is just a cross cut on the threads it is not a problem as long as it will torque up it is fine.
 

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Import replacement idler arms are scrap iron the design is incorrect.

1st, the metal is soft if attempting to torque the nuts on the pins to factory specs the threads on the pins will strip.

2nd, The bushing in the arm for the frame mount pin does not have serrations on the inner sleeve = the bushing rotates on the pin the rubber is non functional = metal to metal contact without a means to lubricate it.

Suggest the complete ball bearing idler arm that OldybutGoody talked about
they are about a buck twenty five from Summitt. These arms are also imports
BUT because they are ball bearing design the pin nuts only need 10 ft lbs of torque & will not strip the threads on the pins.
 

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Thanks to acardon for the offer but I will have to pass due to what is going on since anything I get shipped I just have sent to a drop off service in upstate New York and drive to. It is less than an hour away but now travelling over the border not permitted and I tried building up the threads filing down and using my die to recreate the threads and looks like it worked.Do not know if i will use it though.
 
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