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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 57 Bel Air with a 77" 350 small block on it. I replaced the coil and have a question about the wiring.

Originally the wire from the R spot on the starter ran to the positive side of the coil, then the negative side had a wire to the distributer and then a really skinny wire that goes through the firewall over to the fuse box where it is wrapped around the parking brake and not connected to anything.

My first question is - where should that skinny wire be connected and what is its purpose?

Second the new coil says on it "use with resister - does the resister (r) connection on the starter count? Or do I need to purchase a part for this - if so which one?

Note:I am new to this but it appears the distributer and coil were stock and non hei.

Please and thanks on the help, if you need additional info or want pics just ask.


Thanks.
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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I have a 57 Bel Air with a 77" 350 small block on it. I replaced the coil and have a question about the wiring.

Originally the wire from the R spot on the starter ran to the positive side of the coil, then the negative side had a wire to the distributer and then a really skinny wire that goes through the firewall over to the fuse box where it is wrapped around the parking brake and not connected to anything.

My first question is - where should that skinny wire be connected and what is its purpose?

Second the new coil says on it "use with resister - does the resister (r) connection on the starter count? Or do I need to purchase a part for this - if so which one?

Note:I am new to this but it appears the distributer and coil were stock and non hei.

Please and thanks on the help, if you need additional info or want pics just ask.


Thanks.
The skinny wire was probably for a aftermarker tachometer. It's not needed.
You will need a ballest resistor for a points type distributor. The original ballest resistor was fastened to the firewall on the drivers side. .... http://www.trifive.com/garage/57%20Chevy%20Assembly%20Manual/12-15.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks a bunch, it appears the ballest resistor is in place (See picture below). What is the correct way to run the wire from the starter to it, then to the positive on the coil? There are green and tan wires attached to it now. Also in the picture I found a blue wire that was loose behind the motor. I am worried I pulled it out of something when it was changing the plug wires. It runs into the cab but I cannot seem to find where it is coming from. I cannot find any connections for it.

 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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Thanks a bunch, it appears the ballest resistor is in place (See picture below). What is the correct way to run the wire from the starter to it, then to the positive on the coil? There are green and tan wires attached to it now. Also in the picture I found a blue wire that was loose behind the motor. I am worried I pulled it out of something when it was changing the plug wires. It runs into the cab but I cannot seem to find where it is coming from. I cannot find any connections for it.
The ballest has the correct color wires. If there is only one wire on the + coil from the starter R terminal, there should be another wire on the R terminal that runs to the ign terminal of the ignition switch.
I believe someone has rewired with different colored wire so it's hard to determine what the blue wire goes to??? It may be the oil or temp sensor. Do these work OK?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
The ballest has the correct color wires. If there is only one wire on the + coil from the starter R terminal, there should be another wire on the R terminal that runs to the ign terminal of the ignition switch.
I believe someone has rewired with different colored wire so it's hard to determine what the blue wire goes to??? It may be the oil or temp sensor. Do these work OK?
Yes from what I understand the car was rewired to an extent in the 80s. Here is a picture of the starter (the old starter failed, I replaced and attached wires as they were done prior).



Ill check the wire to the ignition switch but it appears like it is. I just brought this car out of storage, where it had sat for 16 years since my dad passed away. When it went to storage it was running but I have not gotten it going again since. So far I have replaced the brakes (master cylinder failed) and replaced the entire fuel system (rusty and full of old gas), starter, fluids and plugs. I was not getting any spark at the plugs so I did the rotor, cap and coil today which was where I hit this wall. The car was stored indoors and heated but did experience temperatures of up to -40 possibly a few times.

Thank you for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok I think I have figured this out. I assume the "R" terminal will supply 12 volts to the + side of the coil during cranking and once the ignition switch is released from "Start" to the "Run" position, the ballast resistor will be in the circuit and drop the coil voltage to the necessary 9 volts to prevent the coil and points from burning?

Sorry I am a complete newby to classic cars. I have only worked on my fuel injected trucks. If this is the case I have the green light to try and shoot some more soot out the back tonight.
 
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