Thanks a million for you'r reply. So what im reading here is there is a resistor in the switch itself. I think i do have the wire running directly from switch to hei coil but i will check to see if its in #1 OR #2 Position. does the resister turn 12 volts to 9 or do u know. not that important just curious. You would think you would want 12 volts to coil and starter at all times.
Thanks again, Steve
Let me try.....
There is no resistor in the ignition switch.
On stock 55-56 wiring, the "IGN1" terminal goes to the alternator light and the "IGN2" terminal goes to the ballast resistor on the firewall, then to the coil. The IGN1 terminal merely provides power for the generator light in "run" position. When in the "start" position, the starter solenoid "R" terminal provides power to the coil, bypassing the resistor.
The stock ignition switch works like this:
When the key is in the "start" position IGN2" is "hot" and "IGN1" is not "hot". When the key is in the "run" position, IGN2 is not "hot" and "IGN1" is "hot".
If you eliminate the wire to the starter "R" terminal, you have no power to the coil from the IGN1 terminal while cranking. So you need to use the IGN2 terminal to provide power to the coil when cranking.
Like Don said, the best way to do that is to just jumper the IGN1 and IGN2 terminals together.
Hope that helps.
