[straightaxle56]

A friend of mine just put new motor and trans in a '55 del ray also redone the dash ,but when he wired back the ignition wires now when he turns the key to start nothing happens until he releases the ignition key then it starts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Is there some where that shows wiring schematic for the ignition wires to the dash switch??????????? ,thanks :confused0006:

 

[Pops @ Tri-5.com]

Straight Axle....For the complete wiring diagram, go to this link: http://www.trifive.com/garage/55 Chevy Assembly Manual/12-27.gif.....Here's an illustration of the ignition switch from the AM:

 

[straightaxle56]

electrical schematic

Thanks 557B210, for the info.That should help me!!!!!!!!! thanks again!

 

[spike]

A friend of mine just put new motor and trans in a '55 del ray also redone the dash ,but when he wired back the ignition wires now when he turns the key to start nothing happens until he releases the ignition key then it starts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Is there some where that shows wiring schematic for the ignition wires to the dash switch??????????? ,thanks :confused0006:

 

[spike]

ignition switch problem

Straightaxle565, I am having the exact problem with motor starting when i let off the ignition switch. I have been told its the high torque mini starters the way they r wired. I installled a new gm high torque mini starter and now doesnt fire at all. I have 12 volts to coil when ignition switch is on and rolled over to start position in goes to 0 volts. How did you resolve this problem? Im thinking of running 12 volt from fuse block to coil and bypassing the switch at the start position.

 

[acardon]

Straightaxle565, I am having the exact problem with motor starting when i let off the ignition switch. I have been told its the high torque mini starters the way they r wired. I installled a new gm high torque mini starter and now doesnt fire at all. I have 12 volts to coil when ignition switch is on and rolled over to start position in goes to 0 volts. How did you resolve this problem? Im thinking of running 12 volt from fuse block to coil and bypassing the switch at the start position.

A 55 and 56 ignition switch has 2 "IGN" terminals as the drawing shows. "IGN2" provides power to the coil while cranking. "IGN1" provides power to the coil through the resistor in the "ON" position of the key.
57 cars used a wire from the "R" terminal of the starter solenoid to provide power to the coil while cranking. Mini starters don't always have a "R" terminal. If your 55/56 was rewired to use the "R" terminal, that may be the proble. Run a wire from "IGN2" to the + coil.

 

[spike]

ignition switch

Thanks a million for you'r reply. So what im reading here is there is a resistor in the switch itself. I think i do have the wire running directly from switch to hei coil but i will check to see if its in #1 OR #2 Position. does the resister turn 12 volts to 9 or do u know. not that important just curious. You would think you would want 12 volts to coil and starter at all times.

Thanks again, Steve

 

[Chevynut]

Thanks a million for you'r reply. So what im reading here is there is a resistor in the switch itself. I think i do have the wire running directly from switch to hei coil but i will check to see if its in #1 OR #2 Position. does the resister turn 12 volts to 9 or do u know. not that important just curious. You would think you would want 12 volts to coil and starter at all times.

Thanks again, Steve

Let me try.....

There is no resistor in the ignition switch.

On stock 55-56 wiring, the "IGN1" terminal goes to the alternator light and the "IGN2" terminal goes to the ballast resistor on the firewall, then to the coil. The IGN1 terminal merely provides power for the generator light in "run" position. When in the "start" position, the starter solenoid "R" terminal provides power to the coil, bypassing the resistor.

The stock ignition switch works like this:

When the key is in the "start" position IGN2" is "hot" and "IGN1" is not "hot". When the key is in the "run" position, IGN2 is not "hot" and "IGN1" is "hot".

If you eliminate the wire to the starter "R" terminal, you have no power to the coil from the IGN1 terminal while cranking. So you need to use the IGN2 terminal to provide power to the coil when cranking.

Like Don said, the best way to do that is to just jumper the IGN1 and IGN2 terminals together.

Hope that helps.

 

[acardon]

Correct, for an HEI, jumper "IGN1" and "IGN2" together to provide full voltage both while starting and in run.

FYI, the stock 55/56 does not have a wire from the "R" terminal of the starter. In fact, the original stock 55/56 starter solenoids did not have an "R" terminal. ....http://www.trifive.com/garage/56%20Chevy%20Assembly%20Manual/12-31.gif

 

[spike]

ignition switch

Thanks you guys, I did just what you said, jumped 1 and 2 together and fired right up. I really appreciate it. I drove from kansas city to cruisen the coast with it on #1 possition, nedless to say it was a chore to get it started.

Thanks again, Steve
PS: Has anyone had trouble with auto meter speedo reading a t56 transmission sensor?