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272 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I must admit i'm no motor guy by a long shot but i'm learning as much as i can.
I didn't build the engine in my car, and don't have much paper work on it.
i want to adjust timming, figure out horse power, and just gain some knowledge about it.
All i know is its a 327 bored .30th over TRW pistons, 202 heads from a 68? camaro, high rise performer II edlebrock manifold 650 edlbrock carb, Sanderson headers, Mallroy Distributor.The info i have on the cam is its a
TP 187 with lifter set? (any idea who makes it?)
What should i start out at for timming?
Motor has never ran yet, what should the HP be around 300? i have no idea.:confused0006:

957 Posts
Motor has never ran yet...
I bought a rebuilt 327 for my '56 about 10 years ago.
If you have never run the engine before, below is my builders initial start up procedure to break in the cam, etc.
You should follow it or similar advice specific to break in.
Additionally, now-days you must use an oil specific for break in or a zddp additive.

Thanks again for purchasing one of my performance engines. To ensure proper break in and years of long life and maximum performance please read and follow the procedures listed below. Remember if you have any questions. It’s better to ask me than to make a costly mistake. Do not tear into the motor without first contacting me!

1) When you receive your Motor it will be on TDC, top dead center, for the number one cylinder. If you purchased a distributor with the motor it will be installed in the proper position with the rotor pointing towards #1 on the cap.

2) If you somehow rotate the motor during installation you will alter the timing and I won't be much help without knowing the position of the crankshaft so please be carerul when tightening belts and pulleys not to rotate the crankshaft. The firing order on the SBC Chevy is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, the odd cylinders are on the drivers side and even 0. the passenger side of the vehicle. The distributor rotor rotates in a clockwise manner. Always double-check this upon installation and prior to initial fire up. If you remove the distributor make sure that the oil pump shaft engages with the distributor shaft.

3) Once Motor is installed into vehicle with all electrical, plumbing, exhaust, fuel, water and bolts tightened and in place put recommended amount of straight 30-50-wt oil into motor. This should be 5 quarts unless otherwise instructed. The motor should then be primed. If you have an oil primer you should use it, if not then disconnect the coil wire and spin the motor over with the starter for 1 minute. You should see oil pressure registering on your pressure gauge of at least 30 lbs. This will also insure proper fuel in the carburetor float bowl(s). DO NOT pump the gas during this procedure.

4) You will need a timing light to check the timing once the motor fires up. Follow manufacturers recommendation on hooking up your timing light. Just make sure that you have the timing connector on the #1 cylinder spark plug wire. Make sure that the power wires are clear and out of the way of the fan and belts.

5) You should be ready to fire up the motor for break-in. If you have followed #1- #3, have a buddy/wife get into the drivers seat to work the gas and monitor the gauges. Pump the accelerator a couple of times. You should observe fuel dispense into the motor via the carb pump. Have the distributor hold down bolt a little loose as minor timing adjustments may need to be made. Turn the starter over until the motor fires up. Once started make sure that the RPM’s stay above 1800 but below 3000 for the initail 15-20 ..minutes to ensure proper camshaft break-in.

Vary the rpm's to insure proper lubrication or the cam and other parts. You should have somewhere between 50-70 lbs. of oil pressure during this procedure. If oil falls below 30 shut the motor off.

5) Once the motor fires up and you have timed the motor by ear, adjusted the carb for minor air/fuel adjustments check for any oil, fuel and water leaks. If any are observed shut the motor off and repair them. You should then attempt to time the motor with a timing light. I prefer to do this once the camshaft is broken in. You can do this by letting the motor idle down to approximately 800 rpm and setting the initial timing between 10-14 degrees on the balancer. Set the timing by rotating the distributor slightly clockwise to retard and counter clockwise to advance timing. Tighten distributor bolt once final timing is established.

6) After the break-in procedure you will need to change the oil and filter ASAP! While they’re warm. This will insure that all the moly lube gets removed from the motor. Replace the oil with a high quality 10-40 oil and quality filter. Valvoline or Quaker State etc. will do. Check oil level and fire up the motor again. Check oil pressure and all other fluids. Once satisfied you may now drive the vehicle. Try to keep the rpm's below 4000 for the first 500 miles. After 500 miles change the oil/filter again. Repeat this process every 1500-2500 miles. Do not put synthetic oil into the motor until you have 1000 miles or 100 hours on the motor.

Please read and follow these procedures carefully to provide years of trouble free service and protect your investment.

483 Posts
Thats the correct info on cam - i have used it a lot in mid range builds and truck engines. Should be a shot in the seat somewhere around 3200-4500, and that manifold will improve the power from 2500 to the cams sweet spot - best of both so to speak. Probably drop off real noticeable above 5200 - so set your redline there, although if the springs are matched for the cam mechanical limit is safely around 5800. The 327 gets there quick as the small circle of the stroke and comparative large bore is a real spinner!

Thats a good guess on the HP - may be higher depending on Comp Ratio - timing is going to be at or near 8-10 BTDC at 650 RPM (best to first set to 8 then use a vacc guage to attain highest vacc @ 650 (keep in mind that adv will increase RPM and you must go back to 650 baseline to compare vacc) - with that cam I would expect 16-17 inches min) with the curve going to 30-32 all by 3400 RPM. And that with Vacc adv disconnected! If hooked to an auto trans idle at 700-750 in DRIVE - or smoothest - if you need to go higher a stall converter may be needed as you will heat the trans up if you are pushing it to hard (most stock converters will really be pushing the car at 850), a stick can idle at 650-700 (that cam should not be too rough to be down there - but if so set the idle mixture at those speeds then just bump the speed until you feel its smooth enough to keep your teeth in place)

That run in sheet is good stuff - however I do not use moly lube and don't recommened it for several reasons - one being I use a high zinc assembly specific prelube - moly and zinc oil do not make a happy couple and moly can actually restrict oil flow during breakin before it hits its melting temp - second reason is I use a high zinc break in oil and its best to NOT change it out immediately after run - but rather to allow it a couple heat cycles to really get the zinc into the journal surfaces etc. - however in this case I would do the change just because you do not know if there is moly in there or not!

Joe Gibbs Racing has a great breakin oil - do the immediate change replacing with the BR30 - and run it about 10-15 engine hours and replace with the Joe Gibbs Hot Rod Oil - you DO want that zinc with a flat tappet - todays rollers are okay with lower zinc in the EPA mandated sae oil - but not flats! JG is the only oil I know of that is specifically high zinc - there may be others though.

Have fun man - you got one of my favorite setups!
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