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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
'55 2-door hard top.

Following what appears to be the majority advice, I am considering a full pre-fabed floor. I understand the importance of substantially bracing the interior of the body before removing it from the frame for sandblast and floor pan replacement.

I am hoping to get some advice, and perhaps a detailed sketch or photos, regarding the design and suggested materials for the bracing that has worked for others.

This is my first '55 restoration, and I am nervous about this. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Don
 
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I've seen them braced across each door and also from side to side. a rotisserie would also help. :anim_25:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Rotisserie

Rapper... Thanks for the utube referance. However, I am not yet looking for a rotisserie. I need to adaquately brace the 'interior' of the body before attaching it to a rotisserie.
kport
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Carl's 56

Thanks for the response. I've seen in-progress project photos in trifive posts, but none I have seen show the frame desgin, or identify size of the bracing.
kport
 

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The bracing I used is maybe 16 guage angle iron.I got it as leftover from my metal shop building.They were used as braces on the steel beams.
In the past I've used light angle from bed frames too.
The idea is to keep the roof,cowl and rear body as ridgid and square as possible when you remove the old floors and rockers.
Mine is braced in a way that the doors can be left on or removed as necessary and the door gaps remain the same.
I've plenty of pictures in the project updates forum titled "Old Floors Gone".
Mike.:):bowtieb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
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Thanks for the help. I envisioned a more substantial system, such as a rectangular frame on both sides of the interior of car with x-bracing in each of the rectangular frames. I aslo envisioned several diagional braces between the two rectangular frames. From your photos, it appears my idea of bracing was overkill. From the photos it difficult to determine the size of your formed angle. I am guessing about 3" x 3". If you recall, what was the size? Again, thanks.
 

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It is 2"x2" formed angle iron.The important thing is to install it so that the body stays ridgid.They are welded together where they cross and and the front and rear ends on the body.
The new floor will determine the width and length of the body shell as long as you keep up with checking the measuring and door gaps.
I'd suggest you get the complete floor with the inner rockers already attached because they line up with the front and rear of the body to make alinement easy.
Mike.:):bowtieb:
 

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I braced my 55 hardtop from the A to B pillar with 1" square tube from the door hinge to the door latch. I also welded a 1' square tube between the quarter panels in the trunk. Mine stayed square and I had no issues with it staying square.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
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Thanks for the additional information. I understand the need to hold the measurement between the pilars during the floor install. From whom did you buy your floor? I assume that there were no significant problems marrying the body and the new floor. From what I've read, I agree that the floor I purchase already has the inner rockers already fabricated into the assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
TJV

Thanks for your experienced feedback. Did you use only one piece of tubing at each door, or did you install additional horzional pieces between the pillars at points closer to the floor? Did you weld or use the hinge/striker points to bolt the ends of the tubing to the pillars? I am also wondering from whom you purchased the floor, and whether or not you experienced any problems installing the floor.

I really appreciate everyone who has, or will, offered advice. What a great forum!

kport
 

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I used one 1" square tube at the A pillar hinge to the B pillar latch. I welded a 1/4" plate on the end of each, drilled holes in the plate to match the holes in the pillar and latch and bolted them in. I also welded a 1" square tube inside the trunk to hold the quarters and trunk while I put the trunk floor in. After the floor was in, I cut them out and ground the welds down.
I did not put a full floor in- just four panels where the feet rest and a trunk floor.
 

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Thanks for the additional information. I understand the need to hold the measurement between the pilars during the floor install. From whom did you buy your floor? I assume that there were no significant problems marrying the body and the new floor. From what I've read, I agree that the floor I purchase already has the inner rockers already fabricated into the assembly.
I bought my floors (and most other sheetmetal) from http://www.resto-world.com/

You will need to save your old floors for various small parts such as clips and brackets.There is a brace that goes across under the very rear of the floor that is not included.
These are overseas parts and I've had no problems with fit other than the usual shipping damage.

Problems include-Getting the body high enough to remove/re-install the floors.
Repairing the bodys' mating areas before the install.
For me,the passenger floor install was about a 7 on a scale from 1 to 10.10 being easiest.My worst problem is myself!I have to force myself to stop and think instead of getting in a hurry.
Mike.:):bowtieb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
TJV

Thanks for the clarifcation. I am still struggling with partial replacement, and full. Both front pans need replacing, a few inches of the pans in the ends where both meet the quarter panels need replacing, and several inches of the trunk tail pan / rear bumber needs replacing.

I note that there is a substantial difference in the purchase price of the patch panels and the full floor, not to mention that the prior owner purchased and provided both front floor pans.

Sounds like your then existing situation is similar to mine. If you were to do your floor again, would you purchase the prefab floor from the toe pans to the seam where the floor and trunk pans meet, or do it the same way?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
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Thank you for the additional information. Good advice on thinking things through. I'm trying to do some of that now. So, is the brace you speak of the one that runs from frame to frame under the rear seat area? And, did the floor you purchased come with the inner and exterior rocker panels? Thanks for your feedback on the OH company. It's a litle futher away than Danchuk from my location on Idaho. Have you heard of any issues with Danchuk? It appears they sell the floors with the rockers.
 

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Thank you for the additional information. Good advice on thinking things through. I'm trying to do some of that now. So, is the brace you speak of the one that runs from frame to frame under the rear seat area? And, did the floor you purchased come with the inner and exterior rocker panels? Thanks for your feedback on the OH company. It's a litle futher away than Danchuk from my location on Idaho. Have you heard of any issues with Danchuk? It appears they sell the floors with the rockers.
Well,to start,I've been slowly working on the 57 since 2007.I originally planned to just repair the floors.So,I bought all the pieces to patch the bad areas.Then during the teardown and rust removal,I found that there was much more damage than I was able to see before.I started thinking about all the time needed to cut,fit and weld plus how it would look.
By now,the new full floors were out and were getting great reviews.I saw some at a swap meet and decided to order them when I got home.
The new floor doesn't include this rear most brace.(It's more of a stiffener)It is across the width of the floor on the bottom.This area is where the passenger floor and the trunk floor overlap.The rear axle bump stop also is not included.It welds on to there!he floor where the above brace is.The floor doesn't have the wire clips that go in the wire channel.Nor the clips that hold the rear armrest panels.The floor comes with the inner rockers installed.Outer rockers are not included.
I have no problem with Danchuk,I bought from them when they were nearly the only supplier out there!
I bought from Resto-World because they had the best prices,shipping and the overseas floors fit.
Before you begin buying stuff,take a very close look at what needs to be replaced.Strip the inside of the car to the metal.Look at the pinch welds and especially the floor braces underneath.Use an ice-pick and hammer to poke and beat on the suspect areas.
Mike.:):bowtieb:
 
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