Chevy Tri Five Forum banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
1956 Belair Sedan, Resto-Mod, Many Upgrades
Joined
·
722 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Interior, whiskers on moldings, staples

has anyone figured out a way to replace the whiskers and the staples?
 

·
Registered
1956 Belair Sedan, Resto-Mod, Many Upgrades
Joined
·
722 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi all,
I am sure...someone has addressed this before.

I have ordered all the replacement channels and whiskers etc for my 56' 2 Door. The staples the suppliers sell are supposed to replace the ones in my 59 year old ride...and if you have tried to remove the staples...you soon find out that they are very hard to spread...much less remove. I am wondering just how do you install them? Is there a tool someone has developed for this?

I was thinking of getting a junk stapler, removing the plate with the grooves that curl the staples...and using a small c-clamp. Not sure it would work, but worth a try?

I have also thought of cutting a small piece of thick metal, with a groove cut into it to curl the staple and a C-clamp?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts...

Rods56
:bowtieb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,003 Posts
You would have to get an industrial, floor mounted stapler to do the job, like the general used to build them! The stapler probably weighed over 300 lbs and was strong enough to pierce the metal of the trim. The only good way to do them, is to clamp the whiskers in place, drill them from the backside, and insert the staples by hand and crimp with a set of pliers. If you are not particularly interested, in making them exactly as originally installed, you can use small pop rivets, or small countersunk head sheetmetal screws. Both of these will pull deep into the fuzzy, and will be pretty much invisible. You have to really retentive to replace the staples, as it is a pain in the ass!



Regards, John McGraw
 

·
Stainless Trim Restoration
Joined
·
10,581 Posts
I remove the staples. Then use a drill bit just a little larger then the original hole. I make my own new staples using stainless safety wire. I use a cheap pair of plyers to fold the staple. I use a SHARP pick to locate the holes through the felt. Install the staple and roll the inside over with a needle nose plyers.

Toss out the staples they supply, they are too hard to bend.

Photos are not the garnish, but same process, and result.

Mikey
 

Attachments

·
Administrator
Joined
·
49,708 Posts
I remove the staples. Then use a drill bit just a little larger then the original hole. I make my own new staples using stainless safety wire. I use a cheap pair of plyers to fold the staple. I use a SHARP pick to locate the holes through the felt. Install the staple and roll the inside over with a needle nose plyers.
That is also how i did mine when i replaced the whisker strips.
Terry
 

·
Registered
1956 Belair Sedan, Resto-Mod, Many Upgrades
Joined
·
722 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Would that be 45 thousands wire? Or 80 thousands?
 

·
Registered
1956 Belair Sedan, Resto-Mod, Many Upgrades
Joined
·
722 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks 55wagoncrazy!
I removed the whisker strip from one of my window moldings...after cutting off the staples with a Dremel. Then I chased the holes in the frame with a 1/16th drill bit. Ran a small piece of 0.80 Stainless Steel Safety wire through it and bent the ends in like a staple. Will work great when I get the new whisker strips to install after all is sanded and painted.

Thanks again for the advice...and makes it doable. It will also "look" original like.

Rods56
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,718 Posts
I ground all the old staples off flush. Then I could easily removed the ends that remained from the other side. I had all the trim off to do it.

I used the staples from Ole 55 and custom tweaked each one to fit the factory holes. I used a finely ground awl to locate the holes in the whiskers.

I inserted the staples into the holes and bent them over with different size channel locks. The aftermarket staples are hard to bend.

Don
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37,580 Posts
Most skip the staples and use adhesive, the small (3/32") pop rivets, or very small sheet metal screws. Done with care, no one will know unless they are looking to see how you did it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
I used the repops whisker kit. It came with staples; and the whiskers were pre drilled from memory.

I was not looking forward to the job, but it was a lot easier than expected.

Used vise grips to locate and hold the whisker to the garnish.
Used the holes in the whisker to drill holes for one staple.
Inserted staple, started fold over of ends.
Used vise grips to fold the staple over, one end at a time (used the vise grips to get high clamp force for minimum effort)
Repeated for remaining staples.

The whisker had enough give to allow the staple to embed.

To my surprise it wasn't too difficult.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,137 Posts
I too bought the Repops kit, prebent, etc.
Bought mine from Mervs Classic Chevy.
Now the work begins!

Matt, did you replace the fur channel at the same time?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,422 Posts
I used #4 sheet metal screws. Drilled holes first. Worked perfectly.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,594 Posts
I used small stainless machine screws and nuts. Didn't know about the sheet metal screw method. That would have been easier.:bowtier:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
I too bought the Repops kit, prebent, etc.
Bought mine from Mervs Classic Chevy.
Now the work begins!

Matt, did you replace the fur channel at the same time?
Warren,
I did replace the fur channel. This was during assembly after a rebuild. The car came in boxes disassembled when I bought it, so I had none of these parts.

I think the fur channels were Repops also - the prebent kit. For the fur channels I did not use fasteners. Just glued them in with permatex (weatherstrip, I think) adhesive.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top