Chevy Tri Five Forum banner
1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone used this and can you tell me how it handles, satisfaction, etc. My wife bought a 4dr 56 and wants it for her "Family Car" daily driver. I need something that handles a little more modern than a 56' Chevy with my kids in it! Any feedback will help? It is this or Scotts hot rods new clip which he sounds like a good guy with a great product. But I want some experienced people to tell me about this bolt in kit before i make up my mind.
 

·
member
Joined
·
12,256 Posts
Have you considered a C4 Corvette conversion? I think it would handle a lot better than either of your choices, at a similar cost. You get all aluminum suspension parts (a-arms and spindles), big disc brakes, a power rack, swaybar, and great suspension geometry. Take a look at my albums below, and at Car Creations' website for examples. I have also posted some pics here before.

There have been some threads posted by people who have had some problems with the Jim Meyer bolt-on suspension. I don't recall what they were, but it had something to do with ride height and coilovers if I remember correctly. Do a search for those posts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,220 Posts
You had mentioned in a previous post

Has anyone used this and can you tell me how it handles, satisfaction, etc. My wife bought a 4dr 56 and wants it for her "Family Car" daily driver. I need something that handles a little more modern than a 56' Chevy with my kids in it! Any feedback will help? It is this or Scotts hot rods new clip which he sounds like a good guy with a great product. But I want some experienced people to tell me about this bolt in kit before i make up my mind.
that you were looking for a C4. There are no "Bolt In" kits out there. There are however as mentioned solutions using a C4 front suspension. I used a Progressive front clip with 1993 C4 parts. This is a really nice setup. Another alternative is to do a front clip using the original Corvette cradle and C4 suspension. Or, you could consider a full on conversion. If the choice was mine, a new chassis (Not a conversion to the stock unit)with front and rear C4 suspension. Considering what your are thinking about, a Dana 36 would be a good selection for the rear. Using it and accompanying brakes will give you what you want - Smooth Ride, adjustability and STOPABILITY. PM me if you want to visit about options.

Have a grand day!
 

·
member
Joined
·
12,256 Posts
If the choice was mine, a new chassis (Not a conversion to the stock unit)with front and rear C4 suspension.
That is if you want to spend $10K for the bare frame and still have to buy the C4 suspensions. ;)

A new Car Creations frame added $2500 to the C4 chassis cost because everything has to be built, including all body mounts. A conversion can be done for a lot less,and it can be done nicely with a solid original frame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,220 Posts
No argument there Laszlo,unless of course......... you have....................................... well, it's a secret for now that will be released in 2011. It'll be less than 10K for certain.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,486 Posts
That is if you want to spend $10K for the bare frame and still have to buy the C4 suspensions. ;).
This is from Newmans site, it is more than a bare frame as posted here a couple of times.
Not to be nit picky just accurate.

$9,995.00
Package A: '55-'57 Chevy Frame Conversion
· Includes new scratch built frame to accept 1985-1996 Corvette suspension
Plus
· Newman Car Creations cast aluminum torque arm
· Newman Car Creations two cast aluminum frame crossmembers
· Complete aluminum rear tie rod assembly
· Side motor mount pads welded on the frame
· Transmission mount bracket

Jim
 

·
member
Joined
·
12,256 Posts
This is from Newmans site, it is more than a bare frame as posted here a couple of times.
Not to be nit picky just accurate.

$9,995.00
Package A: '55-'57 Chevy Frame Conversion
· Includes new scratch built frame to accept 1985-1996 Corvette suspension
Plus
· Newman Car Creations cast aluminum torque arm
· Newman Car Creations two cast aluminum frame crossmembers
· Complete aluminum rear tie rod assembly
· Side motor mount pads welded on the frame
· Transmission mount bracket

Jim
What I meant is that there is no suspension parts with it. It doesn't even include the front C4 crossmember. But the cast aluminum pieces are nice. Still a lot of money considering no suspension at all. IMO. The cast aluminum parts can be bought for $850 so that makes the bare frame $9150. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
What I meant is that there is no suspension parts with it. It doesn't even include the front C4 crossmember. But the cast aluminum pieces are nice. Still a lot of money considering no suspension at all. IMO. The cast aluminum parts can be bought for $850 so that makes the bare frame $9150. ;)
This is true but everything bolts in from that point. So if you have the suspension you can do all the work of bolting it together very easily. The main advantage to out new scratch built frame is the rigidness! The 5"X4"X.120 construction is bigger than the stock frame which = better ride, less squeaks and rattles, and better handling. The other upside to the new frame is that there are no skip welds down the top and bottom, and it is smooth enough to paint or powder coat with no additional work. Besides it is "new metal" and does not have 50+ years of rust, dings, dents, and wear and tare on it.

Kyle
 

·
member
Joined
·
12,256 Posts
The main advantage to out new scratch built frame is the rigidness! The 5"X4"X.120 construction is bigger than the stock frame which = better ride, less squeaks and rattles, and better handling.
It must also be significantly heavier than a stock frame. A stock frame is only .095" thick, and weighs in at about 275 pounds. Your new frame would be about 350 pounds not counting the taller frame height. My guess is you're looking at about a 100 pound increase from stock, which may or may not be a big deal.

Also, the 5" height decreases ground clearance by 1/2". Not sure that's a good thing for a guy wanting a low riding car. Mine only has about 4-4.25" ground clearance now, but I'm pretty sure you guys set yours a little higher than I do based on pics I have seen. I have a 3" suspension drop in front and 2" in the rear.

The other upside to the new frame is that there are no skip welds down the top and bottom, and it is smooth enough to paint or powder coat with no additional work. Besides it is "new metal" and does not have 50+ years of rust, dings, dents, and wear and tare on it.

Kyle
Yes, the stock frames can be a bit beat up, and they do require some work to make them look nice. Your new frames look really nice with all new metal and smooth rails, but it did add $2500 to the price of your product.

I'm not in business to do these conversions (yet :party0031:), and I only do a few a year in my spare time, but I don't think anyone can beat my prices. I've been trying to make these affordable to the average garage builder, and I offer a partial conversion (all jig work completed) so a guy can finish it himself if he wants to. I don't know of anyone else doing that.

Funny how you guys didn't talk about the rust, dings, dents, wear and tear, etc. when you were doing conversions on stock frames. ;) :D :sign0020:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
957 Posts
Jim Meyer IFS will drop your front end 2 inches.
You will need a new steering column to work with the rack and pinion.

The car does handle very well. No bump steer and she has a shorter turning radius than stock. At least I can make a U-turn from a left turn lane now.
I didn't have much trouble with my frame, just had it sand blasted and powder coated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Funny how you guys didn't talk about the rust, dings, dents, wear and tear, etc. when you were doing conversions on stock frames. ;) :D :sign0020:
We will still convert a good original frame, no questions asked! Yes it stinks up our shop when the mouse house that is in just about every frame catches on fire. Yes we did deal with the dings and dents for many YEARS. Like any good company we strive to offer the best product that we can. This means taking what we have been doing and making it better. The new frame is a better product. Increasing the quality of products, increases cost..... (By the way anyone interested please call the shop for pricing, with the economy the way it is there are discounts to be had!). One of the main reasons we changed to our new frame was that the quality of the stock frames was so poor and the amount of time to repair them plus the two way shipping cost countered the up charge of the new frame. We are also a well established company with hundreds of chassis out on the road. We have been lucky enough to be able to call this a “job” for the past 15 years and make a living of it. Employees, benefits, and shop overhead are not free.


As for the weight issue one of our stock converted frames weighs 250lbs. Our new frame in that same state weighs 293lbs. Not that big of a deal, people put more than that in stereo equipment.

The ride height is totally up to the customer, not us. We can set these cars as high or low as asked for. Personally we like to be able to drive where ever we want and not worry about scraping the bottom of the car. Much like what Mr. Bpeterson was asking about for his wife's daily driver.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I love your site! Thank you. What do you do with the car? Daily driving or Fair weather?? I have seen the Corvette stuff, but I am not looking for that necessarily... I want a car that will get out of the way of the Amish!! In my area, and stop before impaling a horse! So nice handeling and stopping is all I'm after I am not racing and my wife is not a hot rod!!! How do I contact you to discuss the bolt in stuff?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
I love your site! Thank you. What do you do with the car? Daily driving or Fair weather?? I have seen the Corvette stuff, but I am not looking for that necessarily... I want a car that will get out of the way of the Amish!! In my area, and stop before impaling a horse! So nice handeling and stopping is all I'm after I am not racing and my wife is not a hot rod!!! How do I contact you to discuss the bolt in stuff?
not sure who you are talking to, but our contact info is
[email protected]
or
805-226-9201

The green 57 wagon is Paul's daily driver that we beat on at the auto crosses and occasional track day.

the black "Bad Idea" 55 that we have just got up and running is our new track car.
http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44487
 

·
member
Joined
·
12,256 Posts
Yes, a new frame is definitely nice. But again, it's more costly. You still have to ship the new frame one way. Most of my customers have driven hereto get their frames. I save them one trip by often swapping frames. I have only built 17 of these, far less than you guys, but I do it for fun and some spending money for now. :)

As for the weight issue one of our stock converted frames weighs 250lbs. Our new frame in that same state weighs 293lbs. Not that big of a deal, people put more than that in stereo equipment.
That 250 pounds must be the weight without the k-member or cast crossmembers. The weight of one of my frames with the k-member was 263 pounds. I think the k-member is like 40 pounds or so, and your crossmembers have to be 25 pounds apiece.

With all due respect, I am skeptical about the weight of your new frame. :confused0006: .120/.095 is a 26% increase in weight if everything gets thicker by that amount. Take one of your 250 pound bare frames and add 26% and you have roughly 316 pounds. Now consider the taller frame rails and you probably add another 5% or 15 pounds and you're at 331 pounds. Throw the k-member in and you're at 371 pounds. That's 100 pounds heavier than a stock frame as I estimated before.

Like I said, the added weight may or may not be a big deal. You guys do make a really nice looking new chassis, and the price is competitive with the higher end chassis out there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,101 Posts
I HAVE HAD A JMEYERS R&P ON MY 55 WAGON FOR 2 YRS. IDIDIT COLUNM,JUST FINISHED A 2200 MI. TRIP. IT WAS A DIRECT BOLT IN. TOOK LONGER TO REMOVE OLD SUSP.THAN PUT IN THE NEW,IT TAKES A BIT TO GET USED TO THE QUICK STEERING, BUT GREAT HANDLING. ALSO USES G. M. PARTS ,I WOULD LOVE TO HAVE A NEW FRAME BUT REALLY DIDN,T HAVE THE CASH, I THINK YOU WILL BE HAPPY WITH JMEYERS STUFF,,DICK:party0031:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
A comment on the Newman Chassis

I've built several cars with the Newman Car Creations setup and, in my opnion, the difference in the Newman chassis and everything else is the Newman chassis is about the system, everything else is just parts. Paul has adapted the system (motor/trans/suspension), as it was designed by Corvette, to either the converted original frame or the new frame. It fits the body, assembles easily and rides superbly. I realize I am a little prejudice, but think about the following; lightweight composite transverse leaf springs; lower unsprung weight from the aluminum alloy suspension; smooth power rack and pinion steering; nicely matched front and rear aluminum caliper disc brakes; Special aluminum torque arm that mounts and positions the differential correctly. I could go on but you won't worry about bump steer, brake balance or fit issues. I think the key is go for the ride. The end result is truly different than anything you will find.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top