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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After I spent money on heads and some learning too boot, #3 is knocking. Am I better off just getting a crate with a warrenty?
 

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Travis--If you are sure it is a rod--if you kill the cylinder the knock should go away--then drop the pan. You know it is a snap to do that. Pull the rod cap and look at it. If it is not too bad you be able to get a caliper in there and check the journal. There is an outside chance you might have caught ist soon enough where a set of undersize bearings might be in order. If not I have a 350 short block that needs to be bored but it has a good crank, fairly new cam and lifters, and a new set of bearings to go with it. Only has about 5000 miles on the rebuild when car got wrecked. You can have it for what I have in it. Later
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I thought the pan couldn't be removed on a tri-5 without pulling the motor or linkage???
 

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Travis, I just replaced the pan gasket on my 55. You will need to drop the steering linkage. I took the idler arm loose from the frame and pulled it down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm not sure what's wrong with the motor. I ran it today and no tick. Did start to run rough after warming up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just had it open the other day adjusting valves (same day). Knock was in the block not in the head, used a stethascope.
 

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Check a couple more things first.

If you have a torque converter to flywheel bolt loose that will sound like a rod knock , or the fuel pump rod can also sound like a rod knock.

Since you recently had the engine out a torque converter loose bolt could be the noise

Otis
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I used a stethascope before. I wonder if it's because I haven't ran it in 5 months.
 

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You can use a stethascope and still not be able to tell the difference between a rod knock and a knock comming from a torque converter bolt.

You are sure you did not drop a valve.


Otis
 

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My answer is based on experience with the same thing, I thoguht i had a rod knock one time and it was a torque converter bolt.

When you listen to the bottom half of the engine it will sound the same, that is why i said you could not tell the difference.

When I said did you drop a valve, I also had that happen, I floted a lifter and a valve droped down and hit the top of the piston and got stuck thereby casuing a knock that also sounded like it was comming from the bottom end.



Otis
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I drove it out to my parrents house last night and it started running better. I'm going to be brave today and drive it to work today :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I made it home. Traffic on the Poplar Street Bridge was backed up as normal for about 2 miles stop&go. Besides not wanting to idle after stopping and going (generator?) the temp only went to 190 and 160 when moving. I noticed a oil leak, probably cause from rear intake gasket as that was the only wet spot I could feel. I don't think the carb is set up right for this motor, still seems sluggish more so with these 305 heads or since I did the swap. I think I may save up some $ and get a crate 350, just for piece of mind and faster ;)

Ken, I do need to run down there and finially meet you. Maybe you could wake up my little 265 :)
 
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