Travis--If you are sure it is a rod--if you kill the cylinder the knock should go away--then drop the pan. You know it is a snap to do that. Pull the rod cap and look at it. If it is not too bad you be able to get a caliper in there and check the journal. There is an outside chance you might have caught ist soon enough where a set of undersize bearings might be in order. If not I have a 350 short block that needs to be bored but it has a good crank, fairly new cam and lifters, and a new set of bearings to go with it. Only has about 5000 miles on the rebuild when car got wrecked. You can have it for what I have in it. Later
did you try tightening the exhaust manifold bolts. Did you try pulling the plug ire and seeing what happens. Hell drive it down to my place--if it makes it you are in good shape--if it doesn't we will know why
My answer is based on experience with the same thing, I thoguht i had a rod knock one time and it was a torque converter bolt.
When you listen to the bottom half of the engine it will sound the same, that is why i said you could not tell the difference.
When I said did you drop a valve, I also had that happen, I floted a lifter and a valve droped down and hit the top of the piston and got stuck thereby casuing a knock that also sounded like it was comming from the bottom end.
I made it home. Traffic on the Poplar Street Bridge was backed up as normal for about 2 miles stop&go. Besides not wanting to idle after stopping and going (generator?) the temp only went to 190 and 160 when moving. I noticed a oil leak, probably cause from rear intake gasket as that was the only wet spot I could feel. I don't think the carb is set up right for this motor, still seems sluggish more so with these 305 heads or since I did the swap. I think I may save up some $ and get a crate 350, just for piece of mind and faster
Ken, I do need to run down there and finially meet you. Maybe you could wake up my little 265
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