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Good morningWe are getting ready to start the body work for our 57 and saw that they now have a lead free solder too my husband has only used leaded before and wasn't sure which is better or easier to use or better for durability. Also, what body fillers you all think are better. We are using POR15 then will paint over the POR15 we want every thing to last so figured we would ask you all! :sign0020:

Thanks,
Mike and Brooke
 

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Why would you use POR15 and paint over it? To me that makes no sense.

I used to use a lot of lead solder for bodywork in the past, but have never used the lead-free solder. I think it may have a higher melting point, but I'm not sure. With today's great fillers, I decided not to use any lead on my car. I did virtually all of my minimal filling with USC's All-metal and Duraglas fillers. I think the Duraglas is the best. For general filling, any of Evercoat's fillers should work good.
 

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1956 chevy 210 del rey sedan
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Why would you use POR15 and paint over it? To me that makes no sense.

I used to use a lot of lead solder for bodywork in the past, but have never used the lead-free solder. I think it may have a higher melting point, but I'm not sure. With today's great fillers, I decided not to use any lead on my car. I did virtually all of my minimal filling with USC's All-metal and Duraglas fillers. I think the Duraglas is the best. For general filling, any of Evercoat's fillers should work good.
I agree do not use por15 as a base for your paint job. strip metal clean and use epoxy primer for the base . Por 15 is good for floor boards and rearends and frames and such, but not a good base for a quality paint job.
 

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They took lead out of paint, that was bad for a while.

They took lead out of electrical soldering and printed circuit board manufacturing, that was bad for a while.

With the lead gone from auto body solder, it's going to be bad from now on. With those other things, they still had to do something, so solutions were found (and it's still being worked). But leaded auto body solder was already a dinosaur, nobody is going to work on a "new" cure - the "cure" is plastic filler of some kind.
 

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There are many products available, if you decide to buy body filler, I have used the two part mixing hardener.

Keep away from the cheap stuff, you do not want to have to repair panels 12 months down the track.

Make sure the foundation preparation is done right.

:anim_25:
 

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Someone correct me if I'm wrong - I thought the POR "filler" was more like JB Weld or Marine Tex, as opposed to being a substitute or equivalent for the typical body filler, or even the more specialized body filler products.
 
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