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Some yrs back, I did some temp tests with probes, air box, etc. I posted the results, but doubt it's still available, since the new guys took over.
 

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Some yrs back, I did some temp tests with probes, air box, etc. I posted the results, but doubt it's still available, since the new guys took over.
Its in the FAQ info sticky under Cold air intake. Here is the link.
 

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Very interesting for sure.

Here are pictures of mine before, and after re-routing to grab the air in front of the core support. Another thing I learned is that metal pipes used for the intake tubing (I had used Kenworth intake pipes) will heat soak much of the under hood heat. In my case, it was worse because the metal pipe was located after the MAF/IAT sensor, so the air was still being heated by the pipe after it had been read by the sensor. The air entering the engine was hotter than what was reported by the sensor.

Before:
322793


After:
322794


It made a ton of difference when I started feeding it cooler air - even in on the hotter days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Very interesting for sure.

Here are pictures of mine before, and after re-routing to grab the air in front of the core support. Another thing I learned is that metal pipes used for the intake tubing (I had used Kenworth intake pipes) will heat soak much of the under hood heat. In my case, it was worse because the metal pipe was located after the MAF/IAT sensor, so the air was still being heated by the pipe after it had been read by the sensor. The air entering the engine was hotter than what was reported by the sensor.

Before: View attachment 322793

After: View attachment 322794

It made a ton of difference when I started feeding it cooler air - even in on the hotter days.
DEI makes thermal wraps for air inlet tubing.
 

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DEI makes thermal wraps for air inlet tubing.
Seems like if you're concerned about that, maybe plastic tubing, or at least one significant length of it, might be a better choice. Probably harder to source too, but I wouldn't think impossible.

My thought is that it's splitting hairs. If you put cool air in, it's cool air out. You just aren't going to get much heat transfer from the tubing wall.
 

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DEI makes themal wraps for air inlet tubing.
I hadn't thought of that. I got lucky that while walking through my local U-pick yard I spotted an intake on a truck that I thought would work. It was perfect - and it's made of plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Seems like if you're concerned about that, maybe plastic tubing, or at least one significant length of it, might be a better choice. Probably harder to source too, but I wouldn't think impossible.

My thought is that it's splitting hairs. If you put cool air in, it's cool air out. You just aren't going to get much heat transfer from the tubing wall.
The only issue with plastic tubing I'm seeing, and its a minor one, is that the thinnest wall I can find for a 4" O.D. tube is 1/8". The aluminum tubing I'm using is 1/16", so the aluminum tube has a larger I.D. and therefore will be less restrictive.
 

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Ordered some tubing & 90* rubber coupling looks like I could make everything work with what I have now & the 90* coupler & opening up a hole through the side panel but I bought enough pieces to also change the position where the MAF sensor currently is mounted in the tube I don't believe that's all that critical as long as the screen is still in place on the MAF but i'll have that option my only concern is making a clean hole in the painted side cover
 

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The only issue with plastic tubing I'm seeing, and its a minor one, is that the thinnest wall I can find for a 4" O.D. tube is 1/8". The aluminum tubing I'm using is 1/16", so the aluminum tube has a larger I.D. and therefore will be less restrictive.
You'll never notice the difference doubt it would even show on a dyno provided the they layouts are the same 4'' tube in either wall is still quite a bit larger than a 90mm TB even is. Same with the heating the air is moving so fast that it doesn't even have time to heat soak going down the road. You may get higher temps just sitting but once you move zero difference plastic to AL. OEM use plastic simply as its way cheaper easier to work with and reduces noise.
 

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Same with the heating the air is moving so fast that it doesn't even have time to heat soak going down the road. You may get higher temps just sitting but once you move zero difference plastic to AL. OEM use plastic simply as its way cheaper easier to work with and reduces noise.
I haven't gone back thru the tests I did, but AIRC, there's some numbers that compare idle and moving AIT.
 

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I have the air intake redone routing it through the core support side panel I don't know if it will make any difference in performance or not but can't hurt the IAT was running in the mid 130* both at hot idle & only slightly lower going down the road With the changes I did when I finished up yesterday outside temperature here was 83* my IAT was running at 89* going down the road that was after I hammered it from stop to about 85 then drove around awhile IAT never exceeded 96*
 

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