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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For starters
Have a150 sedan 30 over 327 dual quad twin edl 600 cfm endurabhine intake
1.94 1.50 double humps long tube headers and Mallory unilite with new module and new ballast resistor and aaw harness mated to a m21 4 speed 4:56 posi


The car is hard starting and motor just lumps over, high comp feeling ?
Stalled it out the other day and could not restart crank and crank and nothing, when it sat for a hour it started after I held the gas down And cranked and had a small start feathered foot and then it came to life.. In short if warm it takes 3 cranks or so And on the final it barely fires. New module and only 12 miles on the build any way to boost spark need more fire to burn 3/8 worth of fuel. That's my thought what yours....
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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.......Mallory unilite with new module and new ballast resistor and aaw harness
The car is hard starting and motor just lumps over, high comp feeling ?
Stalled it out the other day and could not restart crank and crank and nothing, when it sat for a hour it started after I held the gas down And cranked and had a small start feathered foot and then it came to life.. In short if warm it takes 3 cranks or so And on the final it barely fires. New module and only 12 miles on the build any way to boost spark need more fire to burn 3/8 worth of fuel. That's my thought what yours....
Is the ballest resistor wired to be bypassed during cranking and is it working?
Hard cranking can be caused by timing.
Holding the gas down to start, sounds like it may have flooded.
 

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Just standard spark.

I run a Mallory Unilite myself and like them, however, they are just a solid state set of "points" that never wears out. They are not a "hot" spark ignition.

Mine triggers an MSD-6AL. If you want more spark you'll need to add an amplifier box.

But hundreds of thousands of cars run well with no ignition amplifier. If you remove the coil wire from the top of the distributor, and hold the terminal about a ¼" from a good ground, and crank the engine, do you get a healthy yellow/orange spark? Not just some skinny blue strike.

If that looks OK, as Acardon said it sounds like fuel enrichment. When the engine does light, does the exhaust smoke black momentarily?

High comp feeling - sounds like too much initial timing, causing the engine to bite the starter..

One other check - nightime underhood spark plug wire check. Inside your darkened (pitch black, no light) garage, check for corona jumping off or between the plug wires. It has to be really dark, and your eyes have to be adjusted to the dark. You may have to drive the car up on ramps if your wires run underneath. Any leakage has to be investigated. Light from the spark plug ceramic insulators is OK.

Hope this helps. :anim_25:
 

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For starters
Have a150 sedan 30 over 327 dual quad twin edl 600 cfm endurabhine intake
1.94 1.50 double humps long tube headers and Mallory unilite with new module and new ballast resistor and aaw harness mated to a m21 4 speed 4:56 posi


The car is hard starting and motor just lumps over, high comp feeling ?
Stalled it out the other day and could not restart crank and crank and nothing, when it sat for a hour it started after I held the gas down And cranked and had a small start feathered foot and then it came to life.. In short if warm it takes 3 cranks or so And on the final it barely fires. New module and only 12 miles on the build any way to boost spark need more fire to burn 3/8 worth of fuel. That's my thought what yours....
My 327 in a '57 - - single Edl 600cfm on Edl manifold, 461 heads w/same size valves, Rams Horn ex, MSD ign. Same hard starting symptoms you are having, fuel boil off was the problem - a 3/8 insulator under the carb solved the problem. As well, you may have too much initial timing.
 

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I had a unilite in one of my cars . It quit working in the middle of the night with no spark and no way to fix/bypass it.after 4 hours AAA picked me up. Have dual points now!
 
G

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Actually, Uni-Lite systems need to be double resisted to work and live.

Stock GM point coil IS the best to use with one (ANY other coil, even ones that con users into thinking they are 50K output, are just a waste of time and money with a Uni-Lite), along with a good set of magnetic suppression, spiral core wires, 7mm is fine, 8mm better, and, keep the plug gaps down between .032 and .035 maximum. Resistor plugs aren't required with a Uni0Lite setup done correctly.

As far as the double resistor, leave stock resistor or resistor wire in place, ignition switch to coil, then, add the resistor Mallory sends with the unit (A MOPAR point .60/.80 ohm unit) between coil positive and RED power input wire to Uni-Lite.

By all means, use the solenoid bypass post to coil positive connection for starting boost.

NEVER RUN A UNI-LITE DISTRIBUTOR ON A FULL 12 VOLT POWER INPUT, IT WILL GO BLIND, QUICKLY.

Why the double resistor, well Mallory has it set up that way. When I spin one up on my various distributor machines, Mallory specifies that I use some sort of dry lantern battery power supply, 6.5 to 9.5 volts, NO MORE, to power up the system for testing, same as they like to run at on vehicle.

As far as a curve in them, they usually have 20 to 22 crankshaft degrees in their mechanical curves from the Mallory factory, and would allow from between 10 to 14 initial degrees timing. Reducing the mechanical curve will allow the non-vacuum advance units to work with a significantly larger initial timing, like an early 283 dual quad, solid lifter full size car/Corvette likes, 16 mechanical curve, 18 initial.
 

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Actually, Uni-Lite systems need to be double resisted to work and live.

Stock GM point coil IS the best to use with one (ANY other coil, even ones that con users into thinking they are 50K output, are just a waste of time and money with a Uni-Lite), along with a good set of magnetic suppression, spiral core wires, 7mm is fine, 8mm better, and, keep the plug gaps down between .032 and .035 maximum. Resistor plugs aren't required with a Uni0Lite setup done correctly.

As far as the double resistor, leave stock resistor or resistor wire in place, ignition switch to coil, then, add the resistor Mallory sends with the unit (A MOPAR point .60/.80 ohm unit) between coil positive and RED power input wire to Uni-Lite.

By all means, use the solenoid bypass post to coil positive connection for starting boost.

NEVER RUN A UNI-LITE DISTRIBUTOR ON A FULL 12 VOLT POWER INPUT, IT WILL GO BLIND, QUICKLY.

Why the double resistor, well Mallory has it set up that way. When I spin one up on my various distributor machines, Mallory specifies that I use some sort of dry lantern battery power supply, 6.5 to 9.5 volts, NO MORE, to power up the system for testing, same as they like to run at on vehicle.

As far as a curve in them, they usually have 20 to 22 crankshaft degrees in their mechanical curves from the Mallory factory, and would allow from between 10 to 14 initial degrees timing. Reducing the mechanical curve will allow the non-vacuum advance units to work with a significantly larger initial timing, like an early 283 dual quad, solid lifter full size car/Corvette likes, 16 mechanical curve, 18 initial.
I have been running Unilites for 35 plus years, I currently have four cars so equiped, of which three are Tach Drive Unilights and completly agree with you on NEVER run one on 12 volts ever. However, completely disagree on the need for two resistors, one from a 58 Ford Pass will do fine, its the same resistance as a Mallory. Now I know this is wrong but if if two are necessary please explain how my 67 SS 350 has sported a Unilite without a resistor since the 70s without a problem, it has the OEM resistance wire only.


I really like to run a Unilight with a 6AL box, its works just a good as the MSD with a box. I wasted money on a Tach Drive MSD to find this out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the input so far fella's,
Took my initial timing to eight and she is a bit better, she don't fire on first turn but she don't sound as tight when cranking.

Becoming fall here in Toledo ,so ill get a better look in the up and coming weeks.
Ill keep all posted with results , thanks for the input all once again :)
 
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