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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

First of all I want to say thank you for all the people who have helped me out with past questions. I am not very good at computer stuff and I consistently fail at the search function so if these questions have been answered before please forgive me.

I have a 55 only 265 non oil-filter engine. I pulled it out of the car in hopes that I could just reseal the intake and oil pan gaskets that were leaking. With your guys help I have tracked down the correct oil pan and intake gaskets and I think gasket wise I finally got all the gaskets.

With the exception of the rear main seal. Sooooo that leads me to my current problems. I have heard that the new rope seals are not as good as the old ones. What seal do you all recommend?

Also I figured with it being down this far I would put new bearings on the crank but for some reason (read I am an computer idiot) I cannot find any information on the tolerances acceptable for the crank. I would like to purchase some plasigage but without knowing the correct tolerances of the engine I cannot get the right thickness of plastigage. Do any of you know where I can find tolerance specs for this engine?

I am sure I have more questions but that seems to be the most pressing right now.

Thanks
 

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This is the best rear main seal available! Do not buy anything else. I do not have the expertise to comment on your crank bearings.


Steve
 

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I did not read all the way through this...But, thought it might be of help to you: Box
 

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They make plasti gauge in different thickness .001-.003 is the most commonly used for measuring bearing clearance .002-.003 would be a common acceptable main & rod bearing clearance with .002 -.0025 being preferable. Those numbers aren't very accurate unless the crank & bearings are clean & dry when checking & plasti gauge isn't the most accurate way to check clearance under the best conditions but I've used it for many years. The crank main seal mentioned is the only one to use & with the engine out you will be able to pull the main caps making the rear seal replacement easier to do just make sure to get the main seal grove really clean & use a tiny bit of sealer at the parting lines of the seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Man Alive Guys,

Once again you all have proven a huge wealth of knowledge. THANK YOU so much for all the help. I should have asked a lot earlier I cannot tell you how long I have looked for just exactly this information.

Thank you all so very much for your help I will get my order in. you guys are awesome.
 

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As a rule of thumb when I'm looking at a crankshaft journals I will run a finger nail across the journal & if I can feel my nail catching then the crank at the least needs to be sent out to a machine shop & polished or machined depending on condition. Not real accurate but works for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That is great advice thanks,
I did just that and everything seems to be really smooth. The bearing surface themselves on the 2nd bearing back had a little tiny grove but on the crank and block it is really smooth so I am hoping to just re-bearing it.
 
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