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Nice work so far! I appreciate a two door more myself, and I think if a guy has the skills, making a 4dr. into a 2dr. is the way to go! Lots of work, but the savings over buying a 2dr. body is significant.
 

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My problem is years ago I had a full equipted shop with all the tools. About three years ago I had to start all over ,house garage ,personal stuff .I will never have all the stuff I need so that makes it very hard. I have half of a 24 x 24 garage ,one 20 amp electrical circuit ,I have a small 110 welder ,no torch ,no sheet metal tools just a sawsall ,Cordless drill and Harbor freight grinders.
Don't get me wrong I'm not complaining but sometimes the simplest chore consumes most of an afternoon.
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I never let the garage thing get in my way; or the lack there of! When I hear guys tell me they'd like to build a car, but don't have a garage, I chuckle. I built both of my gassers in a 10'x20' Costco canopy! Set it up in my backyard, and got a load of gravel in my trailer. Spread the gravel inside, and then bought five 4'x8' sheets of plywood and laid it down for a floor. Screwed them together with nailer strips, and put up lights and plugs inside, fed from an extension cord to my outside outlet. All welding was done with my Miller 140 Autoset 115v., and even primer and bodywork was done inside with the help of a propane space heater.
And the car before these two I built in my driveway whenever the weather was good enough to work outside! But it did get all new suspension inside the Costco canopy!
Here's a picture when I was straightening and filling some bodywork inside the canopy, on my Falcon. As you might guess, it was winter, so had the space heater going!

 

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Glad you and your nephew are enjoying time together! It's great to have a bond with nephews, regardless of the situation. I have a couple that I'm really close with, and have lots of influence on over the years.
 

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Great progress, I like it.......cheers to a successful chop!:shakehands:


Although your body is still on frame ya at might want to blow mass amounts of air through frame from rear to front.....I tilted mine on end and shook out at least ten generations of rodent debris -
My old Austin gave up misc. debris, but when sweeping it up I thought I saw money! Dug out two Canadian pennies that were both the same year as the car! Guessing when it was newly imported to Canada someone hid them inside the front sheet metal, as it was while disassembling that area they appeared. They're both mounted in strategic places on the dashboard switches now.
 

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I sure do remember those ultra nice show quality gassers Dan! They were in every issue of Drag News, Hotrod, and Car Craft back then! I loved the SWC, and Mazmanian cars, but my favorite was Ohio George's car, as he made a point out of beating everyone with an engine the others didn't use. He seemed to always be the one everyone tried to copy, but he never let his secrets to performance be known!
His car was nice, but certainly not in the show car class.
 

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Were you able to find backing plate arms for tierod and drag link that fit the Chevy backing plate pattern? I've never been able to find any, and always end up either using Tri 5 stock arms flipped over and opposite sides. Or use a Speedway bracket for a Ford, and cut one tab off and move it closer to match, then weld it back on.
 

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The arms came straight from the Speedway catalog. Part # 91632031. Bolted right up.
Amazing! Took them long enough to finally offer an arm that fits a Chevy backing plate! Now maybe they'll get one to fit the smaller Ford axles too, like the Econoline!
I spoke with Speedway representatives at the Portland Roadster Show about 4-5 years ago about both items, and got blank looks. Also asked them why they don't offer the arms as singles, as sometimes I want the drag link on the top two bolts, but tie rod on the bottom two. Or want front steering above front, but tie rod to the rear low. So being able to buy a single arm is better than buying a pair and tossing one in the corner. Got no response on that question either.
 

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You're welcome. The disc brake conversion for stock 3100 spindles comes with a spacer that slips over the spindle first and inside bearing slips over spacer. The issue I have is when the rotor is installed using the stock flat washer and spindle nut{ the kit comes with neither} the notches in the castle nut go in way past the cotter key hole. No way to lock nut correctly.I will have to call Speedway and see what's up with that. I was really shooting for correct caster angle using only hanger and shackle lengths. What do ya'll think should be correct caster degrees? I have read anywhere from 5 to as much as 10. What have ya'll experienced with this?
Ran into the same issue a long time ago and had to use a thick washer under the castle nut to make it work.

I try to go for 7 degrees on a larger vehicle with longer wheelbase, like a Tri 5. But even 5 or 6 works. On short wheelbase cars I use a steeper angle like 9-10 degrees, as it helps keep them going straight at higher speeds. 1/8" to 1/4" toe in. Usually like something closer to the 1/4" side to eliminate death wobble.
I use large tie rod tubes too! Those wimpy little 1" tubes that Speedway sells can cause death wobble if they get to flexing. I used the 1" on my Austin, but tie rod is less than 3 ft. long, so not much flex. But I made up beefy tie rod and drag link tubing for my larger Falcon. I think they're 1.25" OD, or close to that.
 

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I was on the phone with Speedway yesterday trying to get an answer on this. Still measuring parts and talking back and forth. Caster is at 6 degrees as it sits but I will set it at 7. My draglink and tie rods are made from 1" O.D. with 1/2" I.D. D.O.M. tube drilled and tapped for 5/8 rod ends. Should be plenty heavy duty. Thanks for the specs.
A heavier wall tube like you're using will offset the smaller diameter, and shouldn't flex like thinner 1" tubing does.
 
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