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Discussion Starter #1
I hope I'm in the right section to post this.

I'm new here. I recently bought a 56 210 project. It's the old story. Some things were done well others not so much.

My immediate concern is the motor mounts. It was originally a 6 and now has a small block. The distributor rubs on the firewall and the center link rubs on the oil pan.

The motor mount brackets were fabricated from angle iron, tubing and whatever was laying around the shop that day and welded to the frame. They do seem solid and sturdy, just too low and too far back.

There are slots in the crossmember so I could move it forward enough for the distributor but the motor mounts won't let me do that.

I could put a spacer under the transmission tailshaft. That might give me enough clearance for the distributor.

I'm guessing that I should cut off the motor mount brackets and get new ones. The holes in the frame are still there.

What would you think if I removed the center link, took a BFH and "adjusted" the oil pan? It wouldn't need much. 1/4-1/2 inch. It's a steel pan with an oversized sump welded on. I was also thinking of putting a piece of pipe on top of a jack and pushing the bottom of the pan up that way.

What do you think? Is this too much of a hack job? Should I suck it up and get new brackets?

Thanks.
 

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What do you think? Is this too much of a hack job? Should I suck it up and get new brackets? Thanks.
What you have now is just an accident waiting to happen Matthew,

Get rid of what you have and get some engine mount recommendations from our members
 

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There are 2 clear choices.

1. Use the stock mounts for a V8. This would require that you have a stock bellhousing or Powerglide, or a rear motor mount kit that mounts a later transmission using the same location as stock.
2. If you have a 58 up engine block and later transmission, you can use a side mount kit and a rear crossmember. This is a better setup. I recommend the Earle Williams side mounts.

The fact that your distributor hits the firewall and the oil pan still won't clear the steering link indicates that you have an oil pan from a later model engine that has a long sump (9" or so). You'll need to find an oil pan that has a sump 7" long or less. The stock oil pan works, but there are many more later model and aftermarket pans that work also.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That is very informative and helpful.

I should say that I prefer stock but I'm afraid that ship has sailed.

I should have included more information. It has a later model 350 stroked to 383 with a THD 400. The rear crossmember is aftermarket. I don't know the maker or type. What do I need to look for to know if it will work?

It has a power steering conversion. I don't know the exact brand or type.

The center link isn't hitting the sump. There's an inch or two clearance in front of it. It's rubbing across the top of the steering link when the steering wheel is turned to either direction. I think that's because the mounts were just made too low. It just needs to go up to be OK.

I think you are saying that I need a side mount kit and you recommend the Earl Williams. Is that correct?

I'm a beginner here. Forgive me if I ask stupid questions. I hope you all will help me get this car back on the road. It is one of the biggest projects I have ever undertaken. I'm not sure if I could do it on my own.
 

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Your crossmember will work but it may have to be relocated after you straighten out the fore/aft and height requirements in the front. It needs to be positioned fore/aft so that the bolt holes line up on the rubber mount, and it needs to be positioned vertically so that the engine/transmission is 4° down relative to the frame rails.

Yes I'm recommending the Earle Williams side mounts. They must be welded. If you can't weld, consider the Chassis Engineering/Speedway bolt in mounts. As you say, getting the engine height may fix your oil pan problem, so don't change that yet.
 

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What year engine is your 350? I can give you a recommendation on the oil pan based on the year

Please post a pic of it also
 

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It is one of the biggest projects I have ever undertaken. I'm not sure if I could do it on my own.
Matthew...We have a lot of TriFive experts here, standing by ready to help you. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I can weld. I have no official training but I worked in a shop that repaired farm equipment for 15 years and welding was a daily thing. I have a good Miller MIG welder and a Lincoln stick welder. I also have a plasma cutter and grinders. I don't have a TIG welder but that won't help me here.

I don't know the year of the motor. How do I find that out? I think most of the mods were done about 20 years ago and it sat unfinished since then but I have no way to know anything for sure.
 

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Probably a Gen I engine...Pre '86....However, a casting number and the stamped letters/numbers on the block pad in front of the right head will nail it down.
 

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I took a quick look but it's hard to see because the alternator is in the way. Is the stamped number on the front of the engine or on the head surface which might have been removed if the block had been decked? If so we might have a problem.

Where is the casting mark?

What makes you think it might be pre 1986?
 

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I took a quick look but it's hard to see because the alternator is in the way. Is the stamped number on the front of the engine or on the head surface which might have been removed if the block had been decked? If so we might have a problem.

Sounds like your looking in the right location

Where is the casting mark?

Most likely on the left rear bellhousing flange...Hard to see with the engine installed.

What makes you think it might be pre 1986?

Bad math on my part Matthew :)
Do you think the heads are original to the engine? If so, you could get a date off those....Here are the locations below.




 

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Discussion Starter #14
The car has had a lot of modifications. It has modern style power steering and disc brakes. Obviously the spindles have been changed. The steering box is located on the frame right where the steering column comes through the firewall under the master cylinder. The steering linkage runs behind the oil pan sump. Am I correct in thinking that the in the stock layout the box is lower and the linkage runs in front of the sump? The difference between so called front steer and rear steer. Moving the engine forward will give the steering more clearance but it doesn't need that. It needs to go up to clear the steering and forward to give the distributor more room. There is plenty of room in front but it only needs to move about half an inch or so to give the distributor room. Hopefully I will not have to have a longer driveshaft.

It has Hooker headers that are too wide as well. I am guessing that I will need to get some block hugger headers but that is a subject for another day.
 

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The steering linkage runs behind the oil pan sump. Am I correct in thinking that the in the stock layout the box is lower and the linkage runs in front of the sump?
That is hard to understand. If the steering runs 'behind' the sump that would put it almost under the bell-housing. It's supposed to run in front of it, or at least it does in stock type setups.

 

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As a starting po
I took a quick look but it's hard to see because the alternator is in the way. Is the stamped number on the front of the engine or on the head surface which might have been removed if the block had been decked? If so we might have a problem.

Where is the casting mark?

What makes you think it might be pre 1986?
Does the block have the provision to use a mechanical fuel pump?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'll try to get a picture of it but I'm not sure how good it will be. The car has been lowered and I would have to jack it up to get a good picture but I can take a picture from the top showing the steering box.
 

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Does the block have the provision to use a mechanical fuel pump?
That may or may not prove anything....My ZZ4 has provisions for a mechanical fuel pump
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I need to apologise. As I'm sure many of you suspected the steering does not run behind the oil sump but is, in fact in front of it. Chalk it up to a brain fart and my general lack of knowledge of these cars. In the future I will try to check my facts better before posting.

There is plenty of room between the steering and the sump to move the motor forward to gain a little clearance for the distributor. I still will have to lift the motor up an inch or so to clear the steering linkage.

I took a few pictures and after I am done writing this I will try to post them but I'm not sure how helpful they will be.
321248
 
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