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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys,

Pictured below is a motor mount system in my friend's 1956 210 that was installed about 20-25 years ago. It was set up for a Big Block 396. I'm trying to identify this motor mount system in hopes of finding out if I can use it or modify it for a Small Block Chevy install.

Anyone recognize the set up?







Anyone have any pointers on how I can use or modify this set up to install a Small Block Chevy. Transmission is a TH700R4. Headers are not purchased yet. I believe this set up moved the engine forward some because the big block (396) fit with an HEI without contacting the firewall.

Thank you!

-Dan
 

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When going from a SBC to a BBC swap on a few cars, I just took the motor mounts off the SBC and swapped them onto the BBC and dropped the engines in. Never seemed to be an issue?
I do know they make two different height motor mounts as I looked at Moroso's catalog and saw two listed. But I believe they adjust the angles of the mounts so the spacing remains the same, so not sure it changes mounting points, and just changes engine height.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I appreciate the responses. My goal is to use the welded frame mounts and find the upper engine mount that will work with them for a SBC. There are a lot of options, but because I'm using a per-existing fame mount, I'm afraid the SBC will sit too low as this system was originally used for a big block.

Based on 71BBC427's comment, I might assume that the height is the same between the SBC and BBC mounting systems....but I'd like to be sure.

I was hoping someone would recognize the mount system I pictured and I could contact the manufacturer (possibly) to see if they had advice or an better yet, an upper piece that's the correct height for a small block.

I'm new to tri-fives and I'd like to do this right, rather than installing and pulling an engine several times

Any help is appreciated! Thanks!
 

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It appears to me that the steel plate with 3 mounting holes bolts to the block. The rubber/steel mounts discussed in many of the posts bolt to the block using those same mounting holes - so this mount system doesn't use those.

Do you have all the pieces that mounted the BBC?

The mounts are not something I'm familiar with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It appears to me that the steel plate with 3 mounting holes bolts to the block. The rubber/steel mounts discussed in many of the posts bolt to the block using those same mounting holes - so this mount system doesn't use those.

Do you have all the pieces that mounted the BBC?

The mounts are not something I'm familiar with.
I believe the steel plate with three holes attaches to the motor mount which bolts to the block. These plates didn't bolt directly to the engine block.
 

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If those plates mounted to a motor mount, it wasn't a factory motor mount. That looks like a solid steel mount that would not have any rubber or urethane on it. Unless there was a second similar 3 bolt plate and a urethane or rubber sandwiched between the two plates?
I know it's always the urge to want to drop an engine in one time and be done; but this may be a case of needing to check the 3 bolt mount against the three block holes, and then dropping the engine into the chassis to see how it mates up, and matches up? I've fabricated a lot of my own motor mounts and it's rare that I don't end up having the engine in and out at least twice for mockup, and welding.
But if you want isolation you may need to build a 2nd plate and get some urethane material to sandwich between the plates to dampen vibration.
 

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If it were mine I would get rid of those mounts, especially if they are positioned to where a BB will fit (with HEI) and no firewall modification and I was now going to install a SB engine.
There are much better motor mount setups out there that can be had for $100 -$150.
Again if it were mine I would want the SB engine to be located in the stock factory location.
 

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1956 chevy 210 del rey sedan
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Since you have to buy headers get header and mounts that work together with common modern parts and throw what you have in the trashcan
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Since you have to buy headers get header and mounts that work together with common modern parts and throw what you have in the trashcan
Are you guys suggesting I remove the welded in tabs, and install a totally new kit?

To be clear, I'm not wanting or trying to use the larger three bolt mount pieces, but wanting to retain the welded in tabs on the frame. I'm hoping another popular engine mount system out there today also uses a weld in tab like I currently have.

Thanks, Dan
 

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Are you guys suggesting I remove the welded in tabs, and install a totally new kit?

To be clear, I'm not wanting or trying to use the larger three bolt mount pieces, but wanting to retain the welded in tabs on the frame. I'm hoping another popular engine mount system out there today also uses a weld in tab like I currently have.

Thanks, Dan
Agree with hotrodg726: the easiest and most successful approach would be to start over with a part combo that will work together. I like to use Williams Classic Chassis parts and Dougs Headers. The Williams motor mounts require some fabrication and welding skills but in my opinion are the best. You could also go with a bolt in kit from Speedway like the one pictured. Either way, you'll finish with a nice solid install with the fewest headaches along the way
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