[oldfart]

As you can see in the 1st picture,the right side mount fits great however on the left side I need about another 1".
If I can find motor mount brackets where the mounting bolt is at the top rather than the bottom,will that solve the problem?

 

[TOMMY454]

I had a similar issue with my big block; ended up going with the Hurst mount

 

[bigdave R.I.P.]

Queations;
what size engine?
who made the mounts?
Is the motor where it is supposed to be, side to side, height etc?
is there other engine mounts that will move the the bolts out to make up the distance?

 

[auggie56]

Looks like the ones I bought from C%P, they didn't fit either.

 

[Will]

Looks like the ones I bought from C%P, they didn't fit either.

I've got a pair of C%P that fit the same way. JUNK! I tried to return them but couldn't because I bought them about a year before I used them and they wouldn't take them back.

 

[bigdave R.I.P.]

I'm trying to fit my [email protected]#P mounts and can't figure out how they are supposed to work either.

 

[D.S.]

is there other engine mounts that will move the the bolts out to make up the distance?

There are tall mounts and short mounts but I don't remember the part #s for them... And the tall ones might not fix the problem either...

Maybe a spacer between the block and mount, it would move them out and down so the engine would also sit a wee bit higher...

 

[oldfart]

Looks like the ones I bought from C%P, they didn't fit either.

Well,now I guess I know why the guy traded with me for the ones I had..:sign0020::sign0020:

 

[belairrudy]

This is why i am having a buddy of mine fabricate my side mounts.. It will cost me less and they will definitely fit. :happy0030:

 

[James Rice]

As you can see in the 1st picture,the right side mount fits great however on the left side I need about another 1".
If I can find motor mount brackets where the mounting bolt is at the top rather than the bottom,will that solve the problem?


I got the same mount from Danchuk. According to them, even up both side with the same amount of gap (because this is normal). then weld into place. You have to install with the motor, you can't line them up other wise. I also bolted up my trans, new cross member and hooked up my drive shaft to be sure everything was straight. If you got bolts that came with you mounts they will be no good to use because of the gap. One thing I did to be sure that the motor was center was to use the large center hole in the front cross member and lined up with my center bolt of the crankshaft. I bolted on the headers to be sure their were no clearance problems as well. Hope this helps.

 

[James Rice]

Here are a few pics of my mounts.

 

[USA1]

I had similar problems with the Trans Dapt side mounts that were supposed to allow me to install a BBC, they came with car. I uced the CCI/ ecklers bolt on mounts they fit nice. However, I would never convert a SBC 55/56 to side mounts when the mid mount turbo adaptors and addition of Camaro crossmember works so well. The car will handle better with moter in stock local.

 

[NickP]

Well,now I guess I know why the guy traded with me for the ones I had..:sign0020::sign0020:

Sorry to see your troubles Fred.

 

[737Pilot]

I just ordered some from CPP today and Aaron told me those don't fit very well and recommended another kind they sold. So I bought those, I'll keep you guys posted when I get to installing them.

 

[finallyhavea57]

I had to specify whether or not I had a seamed or seamless frame when I bought mine from Jim's Chevrolet. Could that have to do with the problem?

"Available in stock location and 3/4" forward for HEI ignition or big block application.
Includes hardware. Please specify seamed or seamless frame. A Seamed frame has a
weld bead running from front to back on the top and bottom of the frame."

http://jimschevroletparts.com/uploads/55-57Catalog_Part3.pdf

I didn't see this spelled out when I looked at Classic Chevy Parts on line.

Don

 

[Rick_L]

I bought a pair of Danchuk mounts years ago that fit the same way. They were made a little different in the area between the flange and tube but they fit exactly like the photos where they met the frame. I just threw them away and built my own. Figured it was easier to do that than to make a bunch of pieces to fill the gaps. I mounted a bare block to the frame using the factory mounts and started building and trimming pieces that fit.

What's amazing to me is that I've seen mounts built this way that fit perfectly. A friend of mine (who is not a fabricator or welder) bought a pair from Southern Rods years back and they fit like you'd want. No gaps, he just matched drilled some holes through the ones in the mounts and he was done. Before you rush out to Southern Rods (not even sure they are still in business), I don't think they made them - they came from the usual sources.

Though the Earle Williams mounts are weld in, I've never heard a complaint about their fit. They do tell you that you need to do some minor trimming. And with this stuff it's a lot easier to make a little one out of a big one than the opposite.

Almost all of these mount kits use the bonded steel/rubber OEM "short & wide" mount, which is Anchor #2267 or equivalent (all the other brands also have 2267 in their part number). There is a "big block" mount from the late 60s that is "tall & narrow" and it's Anchor #2281 or equivalent. You would have to shorten the tube on most of these brackets to allow it to bolt up. Don't let the fact that it's a "big block" mount make you think it's better or stronger, it just has different dimensions. It's also going to make the engine sit higher which may not be a good thing. You may not have a lot to lose by trying it though.

 

[oldfart]

I bought a pair of Danchuk mounts years ago that fit the same way. They were made a little different in the area between the flange and tube but they fit exactly like the photos where they met the frame. I just threw them away and built my own. Figured it was easier to do that than to make a bunch of pieces to fill the gaps. I mounted a bare block to the frame using the factory mounts and started building and trimming pieces that fit.

What's amazing to me is that I've seen mounts built this way that fit perfectly. A friend of mine (who is not a fabricator or welder) bought a pair from Southern Rods years back and they fit like you'd want. No gaps, he just matched drilled some holes through the ones in the mounts and he was done. Before you rush out to Southern Rods (not even sure they are still in business), I don't think they made them - they came from the usual sources.

Though the Earle Williams mounts are weld in, I've never heard a complaint about their fit. They do tell you that you need to do some minor trimming. And with this stuff it's a lot easier to make a little one out of a big one than the opposite.

Almost all of these mount kits use the bonded steel/rubber OEM "short & wide" mount, which is Anchor #2267 or equivalent (all the other brands also have 2267 in their part number). There is a "big block" mount from the late 60s that is "tall & narrow" and it's Anchor #2281 or equivalent. You would have to shorten the tube on most of these brackets to allow it to bolt up. Don't let the fact that it's a "big block" mount make you think it's better or stronger, it just has different dimensions. It's also going to make the engine sit higher which may not be a good thing. You may not have a lot to lose by trying it though.

Thanx Rick,It appears that I have the 2281s on the motor now..I called NAPA & they have the 2267s in stock.So I'll try them..Thanks again.OF

 

[Chevynut]

Here's the two different GM mounts. The height difference is almost 1/2" so the taller ones may fix the problem.

 

[Chevynut]

Thanx Rick,It appears that I have the 2281s on the motor now..I called NAPA & they have the 2267s in stock.So I'll try them..Thanks again.OF

If Rick's numbers are correct, the shorter 2267's would make the problem worse, I think.

 

[Rick_L]

That's the way I see it.