[mpbelair]

My sbc 350 is a mild build, probably around 300 give or take hp. Don't know without a dyno and other than tearing it completely apart for specifics I don't have any history or knowledge of what's in it. Heads are 1.94/1.50. Not pleased with that but it is what it is.

My question is would it be prudent to start running with motor oils made for high mileage engines? Casting # indicates a 77-79 Monte Carlo/Caprice engine, and I'm assuming it's got some miles on it. No, it doesn't burn an ounce (when running).

 

[r66ss]

My sbc 350 is a mild build, probably around 300 give or take hp. Don't know without a dyno and other than tearing it completely apart for specifics I don't have any history or knowledge of what's in it. Heads are 1.94/1.50. Not pleased with that but it is what it is.

My question is would it be prudent to start running with motor oils made for high mileage engines? Casting # indicates a 77-79 Monte Carlo/Caprice engine, and I'm assuming it's got some miles on it. No, it doesn't burn an ounce (when running).

I wouldnt, sounds like and appears its a good running motor that doesnt use oil, so continue using a quality oil, I myself use brad penn, , No Im not selling this brand , just hav been using it in my motors for long time, If u like do a search on this oil, and or other wise dont forget to ad some ZDDP to what ever brand u are using now.
:bowtier:

 

[mpbelair]

I wouldnt, sounds like and appears its a good running motor that doesnt use oil, so continue using a quality oil, I myself use brad penn, , No Im not selling this brand , just hav been using it in my motors for long time, If u like do a search on this oil, and or other wise dont forget to ad some ZDDP to what ever brand u are using now.
:bowtier:

Thanks Randy

Was looking for a second opinion. No, it doesn't burn and looks pretty clean with pan, valve covers off,etc. Have to admit that I had to look up ZDDP cuz I hadn't heard of it. Guess I've been a little pessimistic when it comes to additives. Mike

 

[57-Z06]

I think I'm with you Mike. I've never ran an oil additive, and never had a moments trouble related to engine oiling. I don't know if that means that I've been lucky or what. I've always followed engine/cam break-in procedures, etc. Also, I don't recall any of the cam manufacturers installation literature calling for any additive other than their own break-in lube. Just my experience.

Ray

 

[steptoe]

Ditto. I have never used any additives in 45 years. Today's oils are engineered to provide all the protection your engine will ever need. I also use 5-30 weight in 4 vehicles. I just tore down a 1995 Buick LT1 engine to rebuild as I am putting it in my '55 Belair. The motor has 185,000 miles and the "crosshatching" is still there. Also, there is no ridge on the top of the cylinders and the valves were very clean. The rings and bearings were OK but I replaced them since it is already apart. I guess this speaks well for quality oil as no additives were used. As long as your engine has decent oil pressure, you can use any weight motor oil. As the motor wears and oil pressure drops you need to adjust the weight to a thicker level, i.e. 10-30/ 10-40/ 20-50.

I used to work at Autozone and couldn't believe the "additives" they carry. Of course they push selling them because they claim "your car needs them to last a long life". Sure, sort of like doctors pushing drugs to insure you live forever. It's all about money. Just my 2 cents worth. Spend lots of money and help America recover. lol

 

[HIGH ROLLER]

No there not making good oil for older motors, find the old oil and you will be fine, problem is its not made anymore, i'm not saying you guys need racing oil, but the additive levels of the older oil which you won't find anymore,http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/3100/performance_oils_and_additives_got_zinc.aspx i don't care what they say SM grade oil is junk.