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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, started up new engine today and the distributor is off just a little. Can't quite turn it to get enough timing advance before the vac adv. hits the intake.
Need about one tooth on the distributor gear.
My question, when I lift it and set it up a tooth (or two) and set it back down, the dist. gear will engage the cam gear, but won't be lined up with the oil pump key way. Normally I pull it clear out and reach in with a long screwdriver and turn the oil pump until it matches the dist shaft. I was reading in another post, that all that isn't necessary, that all I need to do is bump the starter until the dist drops all the way down. Is that true? is the gear engaged even though the dist isn't in the oil pump?
Appreciate your comments....
It runs fine where it's at, just need to get a few more degrees advance.
 

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Why not just move the wires just one place on the cap. that way no need to take the distributor out.


otis :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Why not just move the wires just one place on the cap. that way no need to take the distributor out.


otis :)
Good thought, I'll check that tomorrow, have to see if that moves the vac adv. so far it hits the valve cover?
 

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Bumping the engine over works quite well. When the oil pump lines up, the distributor drops down. It's a technique that you need to learn so you can use it again because you probably will. It's actually quicker than moving all the wires once you have confidence in the procedure.
 

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I like the first reply from Otis, if your a pureist and have to have number one in the factory position is one thing ,but if your motor sits where you cant just pull it out and turn it with a screw driver what else you going to do .

To answer your question yes you can bump it more than likely you will be fine . Why not just pull the oil pan for fun and turn the shaft , just kidding ..... good luck with that timing issue. GT:anim_25:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Bumping the engine over works quite well. When the oil pump lines up, the distributor drops down. It's a technique that you need to learn so you can use it again because you probably will. It's actually quicker than moving all the wires once you have confidence in the procedure.
Rick, I have to give it a try. If I goof, I certainly know how to start over again!
So let me recap and see if you agree.... I will remove the cap, lift it high enough to turn the shaft. I will raise the distributor until the gear disengages, turn it where I want it, drop it back down and let the gear engage, bump the starter until it drops into the oil pump? Why does this sound "to simple"?
Thanks and again I appreciate your comments...
 

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Rick, I have to give it a try. If I goof, I certainly know how to start over again!
So let me recap and see if you agree.... I will remove the cap, lift it high enough to turn the shaft. I will raise the distributor until the gear disengages, turn it where I want it, drop it back down and let the gear engage, bump the starter until it drops into the oil pump? Why does this sound "to simple"?
Thanks and again I appreciate your comments...
It's simple if you get it in the correct slot, on the first try, remember you could move it forward one slot or backward one slot, best to figure that one out in advance.

Also you may need to apply a small amount of pressure on the distributor to get it to drop right in on the first bump. Then you put the cap back on and then you will need to re-time it again, because either way you choose it will affect the timing.

Good Luck

otis :)
 

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I've never had to put any pressure on the dist in order to have it drop in. In my experience it's pretty heavy and will go right into place on it's own.

I thought I would mention sometimes when you move to the next tooth in the dist gear, it now hits the opposite side. If it runs well where it is, but you are up against the manifold or the coil, I assume you want a little adjustment room right or left. You might need to pull the gear off the bottom of the distributor and flip it around 180º. This will move the rotor position a half a tooth. I've had to do this many times over the years to get the vac advance can to be near the middle of the space between the coil and the manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I've never had to put any pressure on the dist in order to have it drop in. In my experience it's pretty heavy and will go right into place on it's own.

I thought I would mention sometimes when you move to the next tooth in the dist gear, it now hits the opposite side. If it runs well where it is, but you are up against the manifold or the coil, I assume you want a little adjustment room right or left. You might need to pull the gear off the bottom of the distributor and flip it around 180º. This will move the rotor position a half a tooth. I've had to do this many times over the years to get the vac advance can to be near the middle of the space between the coil and the manifold.
Right now it runs good, but I may need a few more degrees advance to be where I'm supposed to be. I'll keep you posted as to my progress. OK if I contact you with questions, should I have to change to change the gear position?
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Right now it runs good, but I may need a few more degrees advance to be where I'm supposed to be. I'll keep you posted as to my progress. OK if I contact you with questions, should I have to change to change the gear position?
Thanks
Move the dist one tooth, perfect. The vac adv is centered midway between valve cover and intake. Set timing, Everything seems to be good...
 

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I like the first reply from Otis, if your a pureist and have to have number one in the factory position is one thing ,but if your motor sits where you cant just pull it out and turn it with a screw driver what else you going to do .

To answer your question yes you can bump it more than likely you will be fine . Why not just pull the oil pan for fun and turn the shaft , just kidding ..... good luck with that timing issue. GT:anim_25:
You cannot always do it that way,because of the vacuum advance. On my engine the vacuum advance is rigid. :anim_25: bowtie-trifive :gba:
 
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