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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, All--

A few weeks ago, I purchased a 57 Sedan Delivery that was Show Quailty . . . it was completed some 11-12 or so years ago, and for most of it's life since it was completed, it's sat . . . it only has 1400 miles on it since it was built.

Once I started driving it around a little bit (I think I put 30 or so miles on it), things started to fail . . . first, the 3-4 rod for the shifter fell off, and I had to temporarily use a cotter pin to put it back on . . .

The wipers didn't work, so I installed a Newport wiper motor and delay switch, and after I got that done, I went to drive it and the hydraulic clutch was dry! I found that the line between the master cylinder and the hydraulic throwout bearing had ruptured.

I had planned to install an Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 EFI kit and convert to an Automatic Overdrive, so since fixing it would have probably required removal of the transmission, I decided not to fix that, and started the process of ordering parts . . .

I found out that many of the parts I wanted to install were on backorder or simply unavailable . . . and expensive! A Chevrolet Performance 4L65E was around $4000, the controller for it was around $1800, I needed to swap out the headers and there were few that were available--what was available was expensive, and of course the Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 kit was $2500 at Summit Racing, was backordered and nobody seemed to know for how long.

I started calculating cost, and comparing it to what it would cost for a Connect & Cruise system, and at first was looking at the LS3/6L90E combination, but that wasn't available . . . however, Scoggin-Dickey had an LT1/8L90E "E-Rod" kit in stock, for only $3000 more, and so I ordered that . . . it should be here this week

Here is what I am "Re-Doing" on this car:

  • Swapping in the Chevrolet Performance "Connect & Cruise" LT1/8L90E "E-Rod" system
  • Swapping in the Power Cool Systems Cooling module that includes a custom core support a polished aluminum crossflow radiator with trans cooler, dual 1400CFM fans and an A/C condensor
  • Swapping in a Tanks, Inc. EFI Fuel Tank with GPA5 PWM fuel pump module and floatless sending unit
  • Swapping in a 9" Ford rearend housing with Chevy ends, a Strange Engineering Pro-N case, 3:50 gears with a Wavetrac differential and a 1350 Yoke
  • Installing a CPP "C5 Corvette/Mustang II Spindle", that uses sealed C5 Corvette sealed bearing hubs, 13" Rotors and calipers
  • Converting to rear disk brakes
  • Swapping in a set of Dakota Digital Gauges in place of the existing Autometer
  • It has a front-tilt hood and actuator, and I'm converting that back to conventional opening with hinges and latch in the front
  • I plan to adapt a '08 Cadillac DTS Console to the interior, with an as yet undetermined shifter
  • Updating to a keyless "Push-To-Start" system
  • I'm considering relocating the battery into the Spare Tire well . . . I could run the cables under the body and into the well from there

I will have to do a little bit of fabrication, for the transmission crossmember and I'll need to strengthen the existing motor mount pedestals . . . the console and shifter will require a lttile fabrication work to make that all work . . . the engine comes with stock exhaust manifolds, catalytic converters and I'll need to fabricate some of the exhaust system to either mate up to that, or eliminate the stock manifolds and cats altogether and get some headers, and of course, figuring out the wiring for the new gauges and "Push-To-Start" system will take some time, but I believe the end result is going to be amazing! Well, it's already pretty amazing, but it will be even more amazing!

I will be selling off the parts I remove/replace, and I've already posted an ad in the Classified section, complete with pictures, if anybody might be needing some parts . . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
There's going to be a bunch of things that I'll be trying to do at once . . . the engine/trans/control pack should be here this week, as should the Foose F105 Chrome Legent 20" Wheels and the Bridgestone 245/40R20 front and 275/35R20 rear tires . . .

the rearend will be here in 2-3 weeks, and I already have the front CPP and rear disk kits . . . I have to pull the rearend to get the old fuel tank out and put the new EFI tank in . . .

the EFI tank is ready to go in, but I need to find out whether the pump provided can be used as-is (they seemed to indicate it could), or if I need to put a regulator inline, because the Connect and Cruise instructions call for 84psi, and the pump is apparently capable of up to 133psi . . . waiting for an answer from Tanks, Inc on this

I have remove to all the old Autometer gauges, figure out the under dash wiring and where everything goes, then wire in the new Dakota Digital gauges . . .

I also have to figure out whether I can adapt the Cadillac DTS console to the interior, and figure out what shifter I will be using, but I have to have the engine and transmission in before I can do that part . . . I also have to have the engine and trans in, and the rearend in, before I can measure for a driveshaft . . .

Lots of moving parts . . . I hope to have this all done by sometime in March . . .

I got the engine/trans pulled out this afternoon . . . here's a picture of it:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Asphalt Automotive design
 

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And that, my friends, is how I frustrated myself each time I bought a vehicle that was 'almost finished', only to wind up redoing much more than I intended. I wish you luck with all of the projects you've outlined - hope to see the progress along the way.
JR
 

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There's going to be a bunch of things that I'll be trying to do at once . . . the engine/trans/control pack should be here this week, as should the Foose F105 Chrome Legent 20" Wheels and the Bridgestone 245/40R20 front and 275/35R20 rear tires . . .

the rearend will be here in 2-3 weeks, and I already have the front CPP and rear disk kits . . . I have to pull the rearend to get the old fuel tank out and put the new EFI tank in . . .

the EFI tank is ready to go in, but I need to find out whether the pump provided can be used as-is (they seemed to indicate it could), or if I need to put a regulator inline, because the Connect and Cruise instructions call for 84psi, and the pump is apparently capable of up to 133psi . . . waiting for an answer from Tanks, Inc on this

I have remove all the old Autometer gauges, figure out the under dash wiring and where everything goes, then wire in the new Dakota Digital gauges . . .

I also have to figure out whether I can adapt the Cadillac DTS consule to the interior, and figure out what shifter I will be using, but I have to have the engine and transmission in before I can do that part . . . I also have to have the engine and trans in, and the rearend in, before I can measure for a driveshaft . . .

Lots of moving parts . . . I hope to have this all done by sometime in March . . .

I got the engine/trans pulled out this afternoon . . . here's a picture of it:

View attachment 357996
Sounds like fun. Time schedule seems tight. Keep us posted.
 
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1956 chevy 210 del rey sedan
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dont forget you will be changing the oild pan as the one that comes on the connect an cruise does not fit a trifive chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
dont forget you will be changing the oild pan as the one that comes on the connect an cruise does not fit a trifive chassis.
Not sure where you're getting that information . . . the Connect & Cruise comes with the Camaro LT1 pan, this is a diagram of it, with measurements:

Oil Pan Swap Guide

This is a picture of my SBC oil pan in the chassis:

Tire Automotive lighting Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle


The measurement from the back of the engine to the front of the sump on the Camaro LT1 oil pan is 12.07", per the drawing in the link, and the length of the oil pan is 23" . . . that leaves about 11" from the crossmember area to the front of the sump, and I can tell you from having measured it myself, there is far more than 11" between the back fo this SBC engine to the crossmember . . .
 

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1956 chevy 210 del rey sedan
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you need to take into account where the engine will actually sit in the chassis compared to a small block. the sump interferes with the steering just like an LS engine. in fact, the LT pan is nearly the same dimensionally as the LS. the aft face of the engine on an ls is 2.5" further forward than a traditional small block. the stock f-body pan just does not fit. after doing numerous ls swaps I can say for sure if you put the engine where it belongs the pan does not fit. good luck.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
you need to take into account where the engine will actually sit in the chassis compared to a small block. the sump interferes with the steering just like an LS engine. in fact, the LT pan is nearly the same dimensionally as the LS. the aft face of the engine on an ls is 2.5" further forward than a traditional small block. the stock f-body pan just does not fit. after doing numerous ls swaps I can say for sure if you put the engine where it belongs the pan does not fit. good luck.
I don't have a steering box, I have a rack & pinion . . . you should be able to see that there's no drag link in the picture I posted . . . :)
 

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Interesting the LS3 wasn’t available. I’m guessing there’s a fair chance they will stop production like they did with the LS7. The LT1 seemed a bit more daunting, but I guess the pieces are available to retro-fit it.
Good luck and keep the posts coming! Whereabouts in TX are you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Interesting the LS3 wasn’t available. I’m guessing there’s a fair chance they will stop production like they did with the LS7. The LT1 seemed a bit more daunting, but I guess the pieces are available to retro-fit it.
Good luck and keep the posts coming! Whereabouts in TX are you?
About the only thing that is LTx specific that isn't available, are Headers . . . not a lot of selection for the Tri-Five chassis, but at least Ultimate Headers has some . . . they are MUCHO expensive, but I've bought their stuff before, and it's high quailty . . . also, the owner is a super nice guy . . .

I'm up in Denton . . . I just took the wheels to Discount Tire to have the tires installed, and I unboxed the Crate Engine this morning . . .

Here are some pictures:
Wood Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive lighting Gas
Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood Engineering Machine
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Automotive design Gas
Tire Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Hood
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Gonna be nice! Will the manifolds fit? Unless you were gonna change the camshaft, I wonder if the juice would be worth the squeeze going with headers. Subjective, I suppose.
Based on what I am seeing, I'm pretty sure the stock Camaro Exhaust Manifolds will fit the chassis . . .

Headers will always make more power than stock manifolds, there is a series on Youtube by Richard Holdener, where he proves this, along with a lot of other comparisons . . . it's worth your time to check out his channel . . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So, I hit a snag the very first day . . . on the Wet Sump LT1 in the Camaro, which is what this engine is, there is a PCV system that has an oil/air separator tank bolted to the water pump . . . that, in and of itself, doesn't seem like such a big deal, but there is a pipe/tube that passes through the 4 motor mount bolt area, and a tang that is held in place using one of those bolts--the back upper one . . .

Here's a picture:

Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Hood Auto part Trunk


The problems with this that arise, are:

1.) The PCV system in these cars was designed to help prevent oil coking on the back of the intake valves, which is a big problem in Direct Injection engines, and this pipe basically removes the oil from the air and returns it to the oil pan (there's a 1-way check valve), so it's not like I can just eliminate it and throw away all the millions of dollars that GM spent in engineering it . . .
2.) The location of this pipe obviously interferes with the use of adapter plates, like the ICT Billet plates I am using, so it will need to somehow be re-routed
3.) None of the aftermarket accessory drive kits I've seen, take this oil/air separator tank into account, so I'm not sure what I'll be doing with regard to setting up the PCV valve so that it works as designed . . . might have to mount it remotely somewhere and put a hose down to the oil pan from there . . .

On a positive note--the ICT Billet plates are gorgeous . . . and I took measurements of where the mounts bolt onto the plates--even if I use the rearward mounting points (which move the engine forward), there will be more than enough clearance on both sides of the engine compartment to fit both the oil pan with the cooler and the stock Camaro tubular exhaut manifolds . . . I might even purchase a set of aftermarket Camaro headers for it, to increase the size of the tubing from the head to the exhaust flange . . .
 
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