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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Also, I got the fuel tank installed, and fabricated a hard line from the tank vent to the EVAP canister . . . there is another hard line running from the EVAP canister to the front of the car, that I will connect to the line coming from the EVAP Canister Purge Valve at the rear of the engine . . . I'll get some pictures of the hard lines when I finish securing them so they don't move, and post them once that's all done . . .

One thing I did since I took this picture, is bend the seam in the center at the front downward, to provide more clearance for the 9" Ford rearend I'll be installing, because I heard that sometimes there are clearance issues, and folks have done this to provide more clearance

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
I worked on the fuel line to the hose from the fuel pump yesterday; the first picture shows the connection to the hose and the second one shows the line running along the outside of the frame, toward the existing fuel hardline to the engine.

The end of the hardline is where I plan to install the Fuel Pressure Sensor, and I am debating on whether to install an inline fuel filter or not, and if I do, where to put it . . . I have been considering installing it into the end of the stainless steel hose coming from the pump, and re-doing the hardline that is connected there . . . I am also considering installing it after the Fuel Pressure Sensor, to help dampen the pulses from the high pressure fuel pump on the engine

The Chevrolet Performance instructions state to place the Fuel Pressure Sensor as far away from the engine as possible, to reduce the effect of the pulses from the high pressure pump . . . however, there is no mention whatsoever anywhere in the instructions regarding a fuel filter, so not sure what I will do regarding the filter yet . . . I mgiht just leave it out, not sure yet.

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
I just went out and added the fuel filter, installing it into the hose coming from the fuel pump . . . not sure if I'll leave it that way or revert back to the hardline connection . . .

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
OK, I decided to run the line from the fuel pump a different route, and finished fabricating a line from there to the Fuel Pressure Sensor, as well as attaching it to the existing fuel line . . .

I'm going to pressurize the fuel system to check for leaks, by powering up the fuel pump just long enough to pressurize the system . . . after I finish with that, I'm going to fabricate a small heat shield for the Fuel Filter/fuel line, to protect it from the heat of the tailpipe, since it's only a couple of inches away

I used 3/8" aluminum tubing to fabricate the hardline, because it looks nice, and it's a LOT easier to work with!

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
I ran my pressure test on the fuel system today, and there were a couple of minor seepages that were cured by simply tightening up the connection . . . I'm pretty pleased about that!

Today, my Pioneer stereo arrived; I selected this unit because the screen is attached to the head unit using a cable, and there is a 5-ft extension cable available (which I've ordered).

This will provide me with some flexibility as to where to place both the screen and the head unit . . . I plan on placing the screen in the front section of the console, and I'm considering putting the head unit under the passenger seat . . .

The car already has 4 speakers, two in the doors, and a couple in the tailgate . . . however, I don't think it has a subwoofer, so I'm going to need to research what to get for that and where to place it . . .

I also have a New-In-Box Infinity 7541a amp that I purchased years ago for another project, and never used it . . . I am considering putting that under the rear seat and connecting all the speakers to that, and use the pre-amp outputs of this unit to connect to the amp . . .

I still have a long way to go before I get all this configured, but I'm taking each step one at a time, and working on each area whenever I finish another that needs to be completed beforehand

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
Couple more pictures . . . the first picture shows the "Push-To-Start" button installed in the dash and the second one shows the rough area where the console will be . . . that console is going to need a LOT of work . . .
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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
What push button start did you use? Any issues with it?
I bought one off of Amazon, the brand is called, "Easyguard", and I haven't gotten it all wired up yet . . . got a ton of other stuff to do before I get to that, so it may be another month or so on that . . . possibly even more
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
I went all "MacGyver" and figured out a way to form the axle bumper tab retainers . . . first--I'm using 16-ga sheetmetal for the tab retainers, and the area for the tab has to be around 1/2" wide, and about 1/4" tall to work properly

So, I got to thinking about how to form these things, and then went out and got a length of 1" wide steel channel, and a short length of 1/2" square steel stock . . .

Then, I sandwiched the sheetmetal pieces between the two, and used my press to form them into the shape I wanted . . .

They ain't perfect, but they'll do the job they were intended for, and due to the fact that they'll be under the car, on top of the axle housing, I doubt that anyone will ever notice that they were never part of the housing when it was put together.

To attach these to the axle housing, I'm going to use a hole punch and put a hole in each leg, then use a drill bit to clean off the powdercoat in the area, and MIG weld these pieces onto the axle housing at the hole in the legs . . . a little rosette weld, which will be as close to a spot weld as possible, and shoot them will a coat of gloss black afterward, to match the rest of the rear axle assembly . . .
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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
Got the tab retainers welded onto the axle assembly, then ground down the welds and laid a coat of paint on them . . .

I had originally planned to use a pneumatic hole punch to put holes in the legs, and weld through the holes to the axle tubes, but the punch wasn't strong enough to go through the 16-ga sheetmetal I was using, so I had to weld them on the edges

The first picture shows the left side tab retainer, freshly welded to the axle tube, the second one shows both after I masked off the rest of the rearend and painted them and the third shows the finished product on the left side.

I tested the strength of the tab retainers and their welds, using a screwdriver and putting more stress on them than would be possible by the tab itself without bending, so I'm confident these will work just fine . . .

I did these yesterday, so in honor of Father's Day, I'll use an old "Dad Quote": "that ain't goin' anywhere!"

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
When I was working on the rearend, I kept installing and removing the axles; this caused the tension spring in the axle seal to dislodge on the right side, so I decided to replace both of them . . .

I finished that this morning and installed the brakes . . . the only thing left to do is to attach the stainless steel flex lines, secure them, and bend up a hard line between them . . . then, the rear axle assembly be ready to install into the car . . .

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
Started on the brake lines; this is the right side flex line . . . I'll fabricate a hard line from there to the stand you see on top of the axle tube, which is where the main line from the master cylinder will connect; I'll also fabricate a line to that stand from the other side as well
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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
Hardlines fabricated; I still need to drill a hole in the stand where the hardlines come together, which is where the flex line from the line coming from the master cylinder attaches, but aside from that, the rearend is ready to install . . .
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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
Got the rearend installed; still need to connect the flex line from the front and attach the brake cables, and I still need to tighten up the shackle bolts (thus, the reason the jack stands are under the spring perches--to place it at ride height), but other than that, this part is done . . . I had thoughts that I might have some clearance issues with the fuel tank, so I bent the seam down in the center, and it's got plenty of clearance . . .

Now I need to see about a sway bar for the rearend that will work . . .
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Discussion Starter · #117 · (Edited)
After researching and looking through the installation instructions for several different brands of rear sway bars, I decided on the Helwig 5822; it should be here sometime this week.

I got the emergency brake cables all attached, and then decided to install one of the wheels, just to see what kind of clearance I'll have and what it will look like at ride height . . .

The inside clearance is pretty good, and the clearance to the wheelwell isn't bad, but I'd like to have more . . . I might end up rolling the lip on the wheelwells just a bit, for more clearance, and put a slightly wider tire on . . . these are 275/35R20's on Foose 20" x 10" rims

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