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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Is there a particular floor that I should use to replace the one in our 56 Chevy 4 door Sedan?

While the body seems to be in real good shape with some rusty spots, the floor is a total loss. Way too many holes and rust to patch.

I have seen floors in catalogs and web sites, but I have no idea if some are better than others or if they are all about the same.

I would appreciate some experienced advice on which to get and also how much difficulty to expect in removing the old one and installing the new one.

Thanks,
Jeff
 

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I can't speak to which one to get but can speak on the difficulty. It's a lot easier putting a complete floor in than piecing in patches and braces etc., seperately. You'll be miles ahead doing a one piece. Others will chime in with brands and fit.
 

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If you are just referring to front & rear floor pans then thats what I would replace.

If you have a floor & trunk area like swiss cheese then you have two choices fit two half floors or one full length floor
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've got the swiss cheese. I just thought that I would be happier putting the effort and cost in a whole floor.
 

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I've got the swiss cheese. I just thought that I would be happier putting the effort and cost in a whole floor.
The full floor would be your best option, check that floor braces are included, also check out your inner & outer rockers, wheel wells too
 

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Wow!!! I'll have to get some help with this. That looks like it's above my level of expertise. As Dirty Harry said, "A man has to know his limitations".
Get other opinions. This is a hardtop and there is nothing but the roof holding the firewall and quarters together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I appreciate all the input, but I would still be interested in opinions on quality or where to buy if anyone would like to make a suggestion.
 

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We bought a real deal steel. We will have to let you know on fitment. We aren't there yet. Maybe someone else could chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It appears to me that you have the body off the chassis in these photos. Would it not be possible to replace the floor while the body is still on the frame and not have to do all the bracing?
 

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When faced with the same situation on my 56 i learned of a company in Ohio called Restoration World. I went ahead and purchased the complete floor pan with all braces and inner rockers attached. I am glad i did it saved a huge amount of time on the build up and i dont have any ugly welds to deal with. The pan runs from the toe boards to the back seat. We drilled out the factory spot welds, removed the old pan and installed the new one back with spot welds. Looking inderneath you or on top you would never know it had been done, no patch work welds at all. The fit was great and the price was fair, good folks to deal with. I was so pleased i called them back and ordered the complete trunk pan from the back seat to the tail pan with all braces and inner tail pan attached. Now my entire 56 is all new underneath and you cant tell it was ever done by looking. I looked up the info for you the number is 937-236-5233.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the info Green. But I've never done one of these before. Did you replace the floor with the body still on the frame or did you remove it and do all the bracing that Muscle showed in the above post?
 

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Yes, the body was removed and braced to keep evrything in square before old pans were removed. We kept check on the body when installing new pans to make sure everthing stayed in square. The bracing prior to removing everything is very important. Otherwise you could and in most cases would get into all sort of fitment problems when you start re assembly. Its best to keep constant check on all gaps, hood ,fenders, deck lid, doors ect.. often when doing major metal re construction of this type. We have checked gaps on my car many times durring the build, even when block sanding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have a couple of people lined up to help me replace the floor, but I'm still at the original question.

One member was kind enough to tell me who he bought his floor from, but I am finding floors from $850 to $1,450 with two others about equally spaced between. Each is advertised as a complete floor with braces, but that seems like an awfully big spread
between 4 companies at a $200 space between each of the four.

What gives?
 

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I am pretty sure east coast chevy in dolyestown pennsylvania builds their own floors in addition to selling the others that are on the market. They did the repairs on my floor, I opted to repair as opposed to replace but I know that east coast does full installations and would know which of the versions is the better quality and least troublesome. Their prices are competitive. It's worth a call.
 

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To the best of my knowledge, all the black painted floors are made by the same company (golden star) regardless of price from different dealers. They include braces and inner rockers. Made in Korea or Tawain, (I don't recall) Restoration world has the best prices I have found.

The unpainted floors are probably sherman (USA) made. The two piece type are just floors. No bracing or inner rockers.

I don't know if Real Steel and Sherman are the same.

I have heard mostly good reviews on the fit of the goldstar floors, but the people that build the complete bodies use the american parts so they must fit ok for them.

Most people tell you to do the full floors but its a lotta work. You need the right equipment and working area. The body must be braced and lifted off the chassis. You drill out a zillion spot welds. Makes the nicest finished project.

The two piece floors can be installed in the car without lifting the body.

Patching the floors with patch panels is more welding but it can be done with minimal tools, and done a little at a time. IF you don't intend to do a frame off, don't have a garage with a hoist, or anyone to help you, its a viable option.
 
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