Phil.....I'm afraid grinding your own may be a hit or miss situation....They have 2* offset caber upper control arms available....See link:http://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-upper-control-arm-shafts-2-positive-camber-1955-1957.html
Interesting that I was looking these up on several web sights, one say's it corrects camber, other one Mutton Hollow, say's caster. I don't see the caster changing.:confused0006:Phil.....I'm afraid grinding your own may be a hit or miss situation....They have 2* offset caber upper control arms available....See link:http://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-upper-control-arm-shafts-2-positive-camber-1955-1957.html
OK I see now, Thanks.:tuAuggie said, "one say's it corrects camber, other one Mutton Hollow, say's caster. I don't see the caster changing."
Auggie, the offset shafts can correct both. Here's how: If the top of the tire leans inboard (negative camber), the offset shaft can help, as it will require adding shims to put the camber where it originally was. Then you can remove shims to get more positive camber.
Now let's say you have the camber you want and need to add more positive caster. The way you increase caster without changing camber is to remove a shim at the front control arm shaft bolt, and move that shim to the rear. If you run out of shims while setting caster, the offset shaft (or any other similar cure) will let you remove and add shims to increase caster.
If you take a good look at that picture the control arm is upside down and the ball joint goes under the control arm. I have seen guys (habbit) set the ball joint on top and this is wrong for a CPP tubular. If this is the problem switching it under the control arm might give you the camber you're looking for.Thanks, but cant use em. I have CCP uppers.
Thought maybe I could machine off 1/8th of an inch here...
Anyone think this will hurt strucural integrity of the cntrl arm? It sits flush now with no shims on pass side and still has neg camber.
What I really need is a new frame!