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1957 Chevy Bel Air Convertible; ZZ4 w HEI ign; 700r4; 9" rear w/3:50 gears; pwr disc fr w drum rear
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's a couple pics of the trim around the back of my top (with the snaps). As you can see, the two pieces are on top of each other, instead of "inside" each other. I haven't had any luck getting it in and thought if I could loosen the trim pieces near the connection it might be possible.....

How is this trim attached to back trunk area? and am I opening a can of worms to loosen this in attempting to adjust (will I be loosening the top material?)

I can't find any info on this in the assembly manual....

thanks
Ace
 

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Ace, your photos are not showing the problem clearly, at least for me.

It looks like in the first photo, the center "connector" piece doesn't have the ends of the bottom pieces inserted into it. I can't tell anything from the second photo.

Maybe you could back off and take a photo at an angle to provide a new perspective?
 

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There is a welded tab with a screw that holds one side of the pinch weld in place, this keeps it from pulling out when the boot is attached to the snaps. To get to that screw you need to remove the top braces that hold the window and the boot well from the body.

DANgerous
 

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1957 Chevy Bel Air Convertible; ZZ4 w HEI ign; 700r4; 9" rear w/3:50 gears; pwr disc fr w drum rear
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Dan...doesn't sound like something I should be attempting...Maybe I'll let a shop tackle that.

Ace
 

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Ace, your photos are not showing the problem clearly, at least for me.

It looks like in the first photo, the center "connector" piece doesn't have the ends of the bottom pieces inserted into it. I can't tell anything from the second photo.

Maybe you could back off and take a photo at an angle to provide a new perspective?
There is no center connector piece on a convertible. They are supposed to slide together, One end is slightly larger to allow this. You are likely going to have to remove the side that is the "top" piece at the connection point and install it correctly as you work your way around back to the quarter window trim. :anim_25:
 

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Stainless Trim Restoration
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From looking at the photos is appears the the stainless is just not fully installed. Here is what you can try yourself. Undo the top latches and retract the top untill the front edge is standing straight up about 12 o'clock. This will relax the convertible top around the back window/pinchweld area. Now standing along the side try pulling the trim toward the outside of the body, starting about midway between the rear window and the bend. Continue along the stainless untill you reach the bend. Do this on both sides and it may pull the end that slides under the bump on the middle where they join.
Next thing to do would be to take a block of wood and a hammer and tap on the stainless from the inside, to the outside, this will drive the trim over the seam more. You will be hard pressed to damage it because of the way it is made. It is a deep "U" shape and has a clip slid into the inside of the "U" that holds it in place. I think it has just never been fully installed. This is what I see from the photo where the end that slides under the bump is too long, and it is holding the other stainless from fully relaxing.

Mikey
55wagoncrazy
 

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From looking at the photos is appears the the stainless is just not fully installed. Here is what you can try yourself. Undo the top latches and retract the top untill the front edge is standing straight up about 12 o'clock. This will relax the convertible top around the back window/pinchweld area. Now standing along the side try pulling the trim toward the outside of the body, starting about midway between the rear window and the bend. Continue along the stainless untill you reach the bend. Do this on both sides and it may pull the end that slides under the bump on the middle where they join.
Next thing to do would be to take a block of wood and a hammer and tap on the stainless from the inside, to the outside, this will drive the trim over the seam more. You will be hard pressed to damage it because of the way it is made. It is a deep "U" shape and has a clip slid into the inside of the "U" that holds it in place. I think it has just never been fully installed. This is what I see from the photo where the end that slides under the bump is too long, and it is holding the other stainless from fully relaxing.

Mikey
55wagoncrazy
Maybe put masking tape on paint for protection when tapping moulding back.
 

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1957 Chevy Bel Air Convertible; ZZ4 w HEI ign; 700r4; 9" rear w/3:50 gears; pwr disc fr w drum rear
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bruce is correct, the two ends (in the middle) just slide into each other. I can't create enough slack at ends to make this happen. What Mikey says makes sense , but I am worried that pushing the molding onto the body further could scratch the paint...Also, it appears only one side can be pushed toward the outside of car....since as Dan pointed out, one of the ends has a tab which is screwed into body from underneath.

If I can tap the side (with no tab/screw) toward the outside of body a little bit, I might be able to manipulate the 2 ends inside each other.

Thanks for the ideas.
Ace
 

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1957 Chevy Bel Air Convertible; ZZ4 w HEI ign; 700r4; 9" rear w/3:50 gears; pwr disc fr w drum rear
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Got 'er done guys. Thanks for the suggestions.

Putting top up half way was a huge help.

I found the trim tab to exist, but was not screwed down, and both pieces were able to pull toward outside of car at least 1/4" each, (tapping lightly with rubber mallet) this made it possible to manipulate the pieces into each other.

Looks great, and no damage. I consider this a "good outing"....

Thanks again

Ace
 

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I found the trim tab to exist, but was not screwed down
Hopefully the pinchweld will not pull inwards when you attach your boot as that tab/screw holds the trim setup tight and in place
DANgerous
 

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1957 Chevy Bel Air Convertible; ZZ4 w HEI ign; 700r4; 9" rear w/3:50 gears; pwr disc fr w drum rear
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Dan, being a perfectionist I'd sure like to screw down that tab, but to be quite honest, I don't know "where" the top braces are, or "how" to remove them. I also don't want to risk botching up the fit of the convertible top at rear...

Is this procedure easier than I imagine?

If you could give me some better instructions (and pictures are always helpful!) I might give it a try. Otherwise, I should probably "leave well enough alone"

Again, thanks for you help

Ace
 

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Glad you were able to "fix the problem". I hate when little things don't work.....it bugs the hound outta me, :congrats:
:gba:
bowtie-trifive
 

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Dan, being a perfectionist I'd sure like to screw down that tab, but to be quite honest, I don't know "where" the top braces are, or "how" to remove them. I also don't want to risk botching up the fit of the convertible top at rear...

Is this procedure easier than I imagine?

If you could give me some better instructions (and pictures are always helpful!) I might give it a try. Otherwise, I should probably "leave well enough alone"

Again, thanks for you help

Ace
Climb in you trunk and lift up the bootwell below that moldings and you will see a row of bolts.
Give me a call and I will explain what to do and you than can make your decision :shakehands:
805 714-2429
DANgerous
 

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1957 Chevy Bel Air Convertible; ZZ4 w HEI ign; 700r4; 9" rear w/3:50 gears; pwr disc fr w drum rear
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Dan, thanks for the offer to help me out. I'll take you up on that but can't get to it for a couple of weeks for various reasons....but expect a call one of these days.

I had already done a little exploring "by feel" inside trunk top and found those bolt heads.......they seem to be spaced out 6 or 8 inches apart (on a raised rail) across the back under the areas of that pinch weld trim. Are those the ones?

Ace
 

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Yes and there are 3 of those bars. I recently removed mine so I know what to expect. :winking0070:
DANgerous
 
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