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Russell with Nerd Rods here just wanted to tell you guys about our latest project. George here in Texas contacted up about upgrading his 56 Chevy pickup like we do the passenger cars. So we talked it over and he decided he wanted us to do the work.

We're going to be building a new frame with C4 Corvette suspension, 5.3L LS motor, 4L60E automatic, Dana 44 3.42 gears, and the full swap for him. For you guys that means we're going to be developing a DIY frame for the 1955-1959 Chevy trucks just like our TriFive DIY frame. (if you don't know what I'm talking about check it out on our website http://www.nerdrods.com/php/proudct/TFC4/stage_1.php ) We'll be posting up updates here as we go and feel free to ask any questions.

George and his friends dropping off his truck the other day.








Later
Russell
Nerd Rods
 

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will be looking forward to seeing this done, nice russell. :tu
 

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The cab is not bad but the whole bed and rear fenders need to go. We've started draining it and pulling it apart this week. Its guts have been cut up pretty badly, not much salvageable under there unfortunately.

Jim's doing the disassembly, I'm starting with the factory assembly manual plugging in as much into solidworks as I can. When we pull the body off we'll have it all scanned into 3D so and information we don't have from the books like inner fender clearance and firewall interference I'll know to have that info scanned when we're going at it.

For any guys playing with CAD, this guy is awesome. Mail him parts and have him scan them into 3D for you.
http://www.absolutegeometries.com/

Later
-Russell
 

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Please keep the updates coming. These sort of builds I find fascinating.
 

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Russell, I look forward to your build updates like you had done for the passenger frames. :anim_25: with the pick up. :tu:tu
 

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I know you can never go by just looks, but what was the problems with bed and fenders? Looking forward to pictures.
WOW, The sad thing is now that we have it appart the bed is the nicest part of the truck. We can't use any of this. Its going to cost more to fix than it would to just find a better cab.

Take a look





















Several of the body braces fell out from under the car when we took the body off the frame, the front passengers side fender was braised on to the cab because all the body bracing were rusted through. And thats just a few of the the bad points. I could write a paper on everything wrong with this truck but I'll let the photos speak for them selves.

We've located a new truck, I'll post some photos up of it soon. Can you say barn find?

-Russell
 

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Yall can use my truck as a loaner for frame build, but I can't promise once it's on it'll come back off. lol. I'll be following this build.
 

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WOW !!!!
Just goes to show beauty is only skin deep
How heartbreaking to find all that under your pride and joy
Good luck in this project and keep us posted .
Looking forward for this one. Can she be bought back ?????
Regs
 

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Yall can use my truck as a loaner for frame build, but I can't promise once it's on it'll come back off. lol. I'll be following this build.
LOL! You and me both.

WOW !!!!
Just goes to show beauty is only skin deep
How heartbreaking to find all that under your pride and joy
Good luck in this project and keep us posted .
Looking forward for this one. Can she be bought back ?????
Regs
Anything can be done with enough money but the amount of work on to save this truck will set the project back 5k just in sheet metal. We've already found a barn fresh cab and front clip for only 2,500 plus shipping, now all we need is the bed.

I'll get some photos of the new cab up in a bit.

-Russell
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
BEHOLD, the new truck. Found on Craigs List with 2-3 hours of searching for 2-3 days. BARN FIND!! See how little rust is on the cab.
















More to come as I get the frame dialed into the computer!

-Russell
 

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Hey Russell, looks like a great project you guys got goin' on there and you're mak'n progress, so keep it up!!! Best of luck, an keep those pix and updates com'n, we love to see'em... !!! :tu:tu:tu BDR...:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
We've Got it Scanned

We just got the scanning done. We've been slamming out TriFive Frames and working out nicer instructions for it in the processes and that's taken up a ton of time but it will all cross over to the truck project.








I'm getting the data sorted into the computer then I can start with the frame design.

More Soon!
-Russell
 

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After writing the 4th email in the last two days about the truck frame I figured I needed to update this. Got the data mostly sorted and I've been deciphering the factory assembly manual for what each model is, like a model 3104 is your basic short wheel base 2WD truck but change that 0 for a 5 making it 3154 and now its the 4WD model. 3105 is the panel truck but a 3106 or 3116 is a Suburban with different rear doors. You basically have to memorize all of these because a random body mount or hole will be on the blue print but have a number next to it.

So to make it simple. Our frame will only be for the Short Wheel Base cars or the 3100 series. You will have a nice place to cut the frame and make it longer (I'm going to make a shop truck with a 16" flat bed on this frame) but we probably won't offer them as an option. Your going to have to put on your big boy hot rodder pants and just cut it yourself.

But onto this car. I send these a few days ago to a few people when I just





So I wanted to check the motor clearance as well so I dropped the LQ4 in as well to see how it looked. The goal is to make sure you won't need mod the firewall and it looks like we're going to have plenty of room.








So I'll go over some of the ascetic choices. First I'm moving the wheel base out from 114 to 115. I'm moving the front wheels forward to fill the well better but I'm moving them forward by 1.00". The back wheels always look fine but the front always looks to far back and this makes it look correct with the lower body.



Feel free to ask questions and I'll start answering so I can send people here instead of writing the same email over and over again.

Later
-Russell
 

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I've probably bugged Russell about this more than anyone so I'll put the questions and answers I've collected.

As Russell said, it will only be offered in the SWB setup. I've got a 3200 with no bed. Since the cab and front sheet metal is the same it will make it easier to fit in the garage. The longer setup would have been nice for towing. most of the time it will just be a driver anyway. if i wanted to go with the longer wheelbase there is a way to lengthen the frame easily.

The frame will be setup for a IFS C4 Corvette suspension. the C4 was built from 1984 to 1996. The front suspension requires the engine cradle, suspension, and steering. There was a change in the brakes and steering during that time. I'm not sure of the year and if it would make a difference with adapting it to this frame. The rear suspension is based on a Dana 36 or 44 center section. Neither one is known for taking a lot of abuse in offroad vehicles i deal with. the Dana 44 should hold up for most drivers if they don't abuse it. i checked with Dynatrac who I buy my offroad axles assemblies from. They have a Dana 60 center section for the new Challengers. Like i said earlier, i need to tow my Jeep occasionally. Dynatrac doesn't think the unit bearings would hold up to towing.

I'll be using a Dana 60 straight axle. I'm the only one who has been asking Russell for a live axle option. he doesn't think he will be building a live axle option although the geometry will be there to add a 4-link. there are a lot of other 4-links out there so i should be able to have one made to fit.

I'd like to run air bags with a controller to keep the ride height the same no matter what my load is. I'm not sure what modifications would need to be made to the C4 suspension.

The renderings show the the body 6" off the ground. It comes from 8" in the chassis and 2" from the tire size. the rendering shows 27" and 26.5" tires. They are 275/40/R18 in the rear and 245/45/R17 in the front. the stock tires are 29"-30".

the motor mounts are built into the C4 front cradle. Russell say's to cut them off and weld the mounts for my LS motor in. I'm not sure if there are adapters that can be used instead.

the rendering also shows a LQ4 motor mounted. Plenty of room front and rear. the only concern I have is how low the oil pan hangs. Russell suggested a skid pan on it. i"m building a stroker based on a bare LQ4 block and don't currently have a oil pan. i was going to use a truck pan, but will look at other pans with a lower profile. Russell says the motor could be raised which would also change the center of gravity. it might also cause clearance issues with the 4L80 i plan on using.

Russell doesn't see any limitations with headers except maybe the C5 Corvette headers. That is good to hear so i'm not limited to the block huggers.

with the car frame Russell has the exhaust routed through the crossmember. He doesn't think He'll be doing that with the truck frame. that will require going over or under. With the height of the truck I'll probably have to figure a way to go over.

So the open questions I have are;

adapting for air suspension
conversion motor mounts
room for 4L80 without having to build a tunnel
exhaust.routing
fuel tank location
and I'm sure I'll have many more.
 
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