If you are running just a simple shock setup with bushings in the ends, there won't be a problem. That's what shock bushings are for. If you start running a more rigid load with air shocks and coilovers, you are going to hear more. We have been working with unibody cars for years and can tell you that as long as you have something to prevent the transfer, it's not a problem. If the shocks had bearings in both ends, you would hear every noise the rearend made. The good side would be knowing when a bearing was going out. We looked at all options for mounting, even a shock crossmember, but we know from our 4 link that there is a lot of variance in the inside frame width. I'm not saying that the sheetmetal panels are perfect, but we felt that the variance there would have less effect on the installation. This kit was also designed with installation in mind, normal guy with normal tools kinda method.That arrangement provides for the staggered shocks, and lessens the possibility that the floor of the vehicle will be torn/damaged, BUT.. it preserved the major problem with the original design (transmittal of shock/vibration directly to the body of the car). Did you consider designing your staggered shock arrangement mount directly to the inside of the frame?
For a guy that is doing just a StreetGrip, I don't see it necessary. That's a totally different market.Did you design this system to be used with a stock frame? or do you recommend reinforcing/strengthening the frame for reduced torsional and longitudinal flex?
Our Tri5 kit doesn't use a rear swaybar, just a front. We are looking for a good balance in the handling side and this kit has it just like it is. I will know more about the wagons next week. It may take one, to early to tell.Your article referencing front AND rear anti-sway bars, but only one is shown in the Tri5 photo, so I assume it's the front only? Was that choice a reflection on the need for different sway bars for wagons vs non-wagons?