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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all...have always wanted a 57 and am in a position to build one. Am going to look at a 57 2dr post tomorrow, no motor or trans but otherwise nearly 100% complete. I know what to look for as far as basic rust, bondo, etc., but anything I should pay particular attention to as far as rust or damage? This will be my first tri-five, and don't want to be cocky and end up with something I can't fix.
Also checked out a frame today, 57 2dr, with nova subframe (rear steer). Frame is in real nice shape but question how the subframe is installed. They notched the frame and stuck the nova sub inside the 57 frame rails. you can still see the mounting holes at the end of the nova sub. I would get the frame, which is sandblasted and painted, with a good 57 rear end, 350 engine and trans. I have a nova sub in my 53 chevy truck and really like how it turned out, but wonder about how it is pieced together. The guy who is selling bought like that, it has sat in his garage for about 20 years..should probably avoid this because of how much could be wrong but have to ask....
Thanks for any and all help,
Dave
 

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I personally would be afraid of that frame not knowing how or when it was done. As far as the 57 roller check the frame at the front rear axle spring hangers. I stuck a screwdriver through mine when I tried to clean out the dirt in the bottom of the hanger. I ended up replacing the bottom of the right rail there and rebuilding both rear corners of the chassis.
Dave
 

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Hey it never hurts to go look at a ride. You can`t tell what you may have if you talk yourself out of it before it`s even yours. Anymore you can build or buy nearly any part to replace the bad areas. If the price is right it may be worth going for.
Terry
 

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Dave,

Here are a few things that I wish I had considered more closely. You have probably already considered these. I submit these as a beginner myself. First proect ever. This forum has helped my time and time again so I wanted to conribute something in return. Best I can offer at my level.

• I missed well hidden rust on the inner finders (engine bay). Considering the replacement price they are worth a close look.

• Some rust on the floor braces, inside QTR panel braces, and one or two others needed patching or replacing. Not that pricy individually but it did impact the strength of the car. Lost time getting this done.

• It did not show at first but at one time the car had been hit in the right front. This finally became evident after measurements were made on the car and compared to factory specs. We had to straighten the car a little to make the factory numbers work. More time and labor.

I have attached two pics showing the floor pan work done on areas that at first were obvious and those that were not. Also put a pic of the finished product.

All of these pieces are in an Excel WKS with supplier and pricing. If you are interest I will send it to you.

Good luck!

DonC
Houston
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks everyone...did buy the 57 150 series 2dr! It will need repair in front of the rear tires, front floors and some braces, bottom of front fenders, rockers maybe, and more. but back floors, frame, most of trunk, doors, are very good, and car is almost 100% complete (seats/interior, gauges, trim, etc.). I'll try to post a pic tomorrow. Sooooo many questions, like where is most "economical" place to get patch panels, and why do so many people install different front susp? Thanks again for the tips, Don, any help with figuring out these floorboards would be great, it would give me an idea of how many "trips to the bloodbank" will be required...
 

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The goal on the sheetmetal replacement was to retain as much of the good metal as possible. When the full floor pans arrived they looked good. We cut the new floor pans to fit the areas we decided to replace. In other words we did not simply cut out the entir floor pan and install both full floor pans. We used the new to make patches (large ones). This weekend I can post more photos showing the areas we patched.

The car had its suspension improved for two reasons; 1) even due to the size and weight some components do help improve performance and handling (rack & pinion), 2) all other reasons for me are for appearance.

DonC.
Houston
 

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Don, I'll be replacing the whole floor pan on mine. There are no braces left. Toe boards are O.K. and the rear axle hump is ok. Could spread sand on the roads with the floor. Trunk is rotted around the edges and around the wheel wells. Got to get some overtime this winter to purchase parts.
Dave
 

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Dave,

Replacing the entire floor unit is probably the best route. When the work was started it was planned only to fix/patch rusted areas. This car is going to be driven, and it was intended all along to be a learning experience. This is the first I have ever done. Keep this in mind as you read future posts!

DonC.
Houston
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You're floor looks pretty good, Don...did you have to mess with the tunnel and rockers? I've done a few floorboards in the past...but this will be my first time doing them right (no overlap, using replacement parts/not home made). I'm pretty much in the same boat as Dave, my floor is swiss cheese:eek: . Hope you don't mind a few more questions in the future, after I get the knife out...thanks,
D
 
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