Chevy Tri Five Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Premium Member
1957 Chevy Bel Air Convertible; ZZ4 w HEI ign; 700r4; 9" rear w/3:50 gears; pwr disc fr w drum rear
Joined
·
1,996 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
getting ready to pull points dist and put in MSD ready to run.
never done this before....I know it should be easy....but as always a little nervous.

I'm expecting to have the usual problem of slot in bottom of distributor not aligning with (oil pump?) drive when I reset new dist. If I put a little downward hand pressure on dist while I "click/crank" engine around with a remote starter attempting to drop it in...can this do any damage? I don't think I can turn engine by hand without removing shroud (not an option!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Just make sure it's on TDC and the distributor is on number one. Then take a long screw driver and turn the oil pump until it aligns up with the distributor slot and it'll drop right in. It might take a couple of tries to get it correctly aligned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,085 Posts
Like LarryH said...pretty straight forward if you are at TDC and if it inot right swap the drive 180*....just be glad its not a Ford you can be 90*, 180* or 270* out when reinstalling a dist.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
605 Posts
TDC is not neseccary if you do these couple of steps. Just make sure that you DO NOT turn the motor over until you put the distributor back.

This is what I do when I pull my distributor (The reason is not important, replacing or just doing some other work), I always pull the cap and leave the rotor on. I then take some painters tape (the blue stuff) and place a strip of it in the general direction that the rotor is pointing. I then get a marker and mark on the blue tape the exact direction the rotor is pointing. Then you can pull the distributor and know exactly where it should be pointing to get it very close timing wise to where it was before you pulled the distributor. Then when you put the distributor back in make sure that when it seats all the way down in the housing it lines up with the mark you made earlier. Like the guys said above it may take a couple of times of going in and out with the distributor until you get it lined up right but this process should make it a little easier.

Dave
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,106 Posts
Don't crank or click the starter to get it to fall into the oil shaft slot. You can damage some things that way. Because distributors vary in where the shaft slot lines up vs the where the rotor is, you may have to put it in and out a few times, each time using a long large screw driver to turn the oil pump shaft. If you can find a priming shaft, it is a little easier, but if not, be sure to use a long enough screwdriver. If you should accidentally move the engine, you can pull #1 plug out and rotate the engine (the right direction) and feel for the compression from the plug hole with your finger. This will tell you the piston is on the compression stroke. Then just keep going until you get the TDC mark. Drop in the distributor, and at this point, you can make #1 where ever you want. See where the rotor is pointing, and make the corresponding socket on the cap #1. Then just follow the firing order (18436572) around clockwise.
 

·
Premium Member
1957 Chevy Bel Air Convertible; ZZ4 w HEI ign; 700r4; 9" rear w/3:50 gears; pwr disc fr w drum rear
Joined
·
1,996 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys, I think it's in ok.....I won't know until I fire it up in a couple days...still have to mount coil, route new wires, etc..but after pulling it out and moving the oil pump shaft about 4 times I finally got it dropped in and lined up with my mark. Dave, I used your tape idea, that was helpful.

I'll tell you what....finding that oil pump shaft with a screwdriver "by feel" was a little tricky the first time

I noted exact positioning of wires (in relation to the tape mark as well) before removing old cap, and put new wires on new cap in same spots. I numbered wires with silver marker in preparation.

The first time on any new project is always a little hair-raising for me....thanks for your help. As always, I'll post a picture or two when I'm done.

Ace
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,668 Posts
Thanks guys, I think it's in ok.....I won't know until I fire it up in a couple days...still have to mount coil, route new wires, etc..but after pulling it out and moving the oil pump shaft about 4 times I finally got it dropped in and lined up with my mark. Dave, I used your tape idea, that was helpful.

I'll tell you what....finding that oil pump shaft with a screwdriver "by feel" was a little tricky the first time

I noted exact positioning of wires (in relation to the tape mark as well) before removing old cap, and put new wires on new cap in same spots. I numbered wires with silver marker in preparation.

The first time on any new project is always a little hair-raising for me....thanks for your help. As always, I'll post a picture or two when I'm done.

Ace
keep us posted :bootyshake:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
I'll tell you what....finding that oil pump shaft with a screwdriver "by feel" was a little tricky the first time
Guess i should have mentioned using a flashlight to see the position of the oil pump shaft.
 

·
Premium Member
1957 Chevy Bel Air Convertible; ZZ4 w HEI ign; 700r4; 9" rear w/3:50 gears; pwr disc fr w drum rear
Joined
·
1,996 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Larry, I tried that without success....I found that there was no way to lean over the dizzy shaft to see in without climbing onto the engine (and I'm 6'2"....) couldn't get "over" the hole from sides or front to look down in. Of course, I do have the car jacked up on passenger side about 10" right now....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,485 Posts
As others have stated... the tricky part is getting the oil pump shaft lined up. Just be patient and you will get it. :bowtier: Also Ace I think after 286 post I think you have surpassed the "Newbie" classification. :sign0020:
 

·
Premium Member
1957 Chevy Bel Air Convertible; ZZ4 w HEI ign; 700r4; 9" rear w/3:50 gears; pwr disc fr w drum rear
Joined
·
1,996 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Rudy, I guess I should have said "ignition system newbie"......

I gotta tell you, in 286 posts (well, 287 now...) this forum has helped me immensely with my projects since I got this car in February.

I was thinking about that the other night.....prior to the "internet forum" getting information and help on these projects would have been a heck of a lot harder.....

My on-line "gear head buddies" (as my wife calls all of you) are a world of knowledge and instant help.

Thanks for your posts Rudy, you've helped me a number of times!

Ace
 

·
Premium Member
1957 Chevy Bel Air Convertible; ZZ4 w HEI ign; 700r4; 9" rear w/3:50 gears; pwr disc fr w drum rear
Joined
·
1,996 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here are pics of the final install. I just finished it, fired it up, timed it, and test drove it. It ran beautifully. Idle was smoother, and thru the gears WOT was awesome! On the wires I used 3/4" shrink tube from the hardware store on the boot ends, and added Moroso shrink tube "numbered" bands over those. I made a bracked out of aluminum for the coil, and mounted to the firewall using a single existing hole. I put a couple of rubber feet on the bracket to absorb vibrations. Installed plug wire heat shields (shown in pics), but haven't put in solenoid heat shield yet. Final decisions....change coil wire to black? use MSD distributor boot wire clamp? (these are just asthetics...)

I timed the motor to 8 degress BTDC with vac advance line plugged. Is that a good place to start or is 6 better?

ACE
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
1957 Chevy Bel Air Convertible; ZZ4 w HEI ign; 700r4; 9" rear w/3:50 gears; pwr disc fr w drum rear
Joined
·
1,996 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
couple more pics

ACE
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,085 Posts
Installation looks great, I'd leave the coil wire red but that is just my taste, looks "different" not run of the mill. 8* is a pretty good starting point. my 383 stroker runs best at 8*, if yours performs well at that point I'd leave it as long as you have no pinging or detonation and it starts easily hot or cold. Maybe some of the more savvy guys here have a different take on it though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,485 Posts
Installation looks very sanitary Ace. :tu I agree with G.R. If you have good throttle response and you have no issues with starting and detonation. I would leave her at 8 degrees. Run her for a while and see how she does.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top