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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 55 Chevy all stock 235 it has no spark coming out of spark plugs.. I only have a test light and I checked to see if I had power going to coil and yes to both sides . Points are opening and closing ok distributor seems not to be crowning??? Sorry for am sure this been ask many times...
 

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Pull the center dist. lead coming from the coil and crank the eng. over and check for spark.Also its possible to have a bad points condenser.Check rotor and cap for condition and make sure the points are not pitted and the correct gap of .018 to .019. Swap out the coil to dist. tension lead if no spark is visible coming from the coil.Good luck,hope this helps.
Big Bob:flag4::bowtier:
 

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If swapping out the coil to dist lead produced no good result try this next.
With the multimeter check the resistance of the secondary coil.Use the 20K setting and with the black neg. lead to center terminal of the coil,the reading should be 11.00 or better,about 13.49 is normal.If under 11.00,chances are the coil is gone.Replace with another and try again.Good luck.
Big Bob:flag4::bowtieb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If swapping out the coil to dist lead produced no good result try this next.
With the multimeter check the resistance of the secondary coil.Use the 20K setting and with the black neg. lead to center terminal of the coil,the reading should be 11.00 or better,about 13.49 is normal.If under 11.00,chances are the coil is gone.Replace with another and try again.Good luck.
Big Bob:flag4::bowtieb:
Do I check that with power on? Our just with the coil it self? I should have paid better attention in auto shop in school!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well I tried texting it with an old meter I had and read 15. To 19.0 kept going back and forth on one time it read 11.0... I tried cranking again but on spark!!! So I have power on both side of coil is that normal? And power to distributor... towmorow I will go buy new coil just in chase and what happens..:p3:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
points and condensor sure wouldnt hurt.
Would a bad condenser cause no spark from coil to distributor or just no spark out the distributor....? I guess what I'm asking is if you didn't have distributor only coil would spark come out off coil?
 

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Your posts are kind of confusing. You have poer going into the coil, is the voltage on the -post on the coil, with the dist wire unhooked?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Your posts are kind of confusing. You have poer going into the coil, is the voltage on the -post on the coil, with the dist wire unhooked?
Sorry , With every thing hooked up.... i have 12 v at the - & + si de of coil...


I put In a new coil And still no spark... i will try condenser next.
 

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I put In a new coil And still no spark... i will try condenser next.
Have a look under the distributor cap make sure that the push spring is there that pushes against the rotor button.

Is the rotor button worn?
 

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Had this same issue years ago, buddy was helping me. Finally noticed the rotor sitting on the fender well, he had forgotten to put it back in. Many times have had the spring on top of the rotor get weak or the contact point on the rotor with dist get too worn to work right.
Have a look under the distributor cap make sure that the push spring is there that pushes against the rotor button.

Is the rotor button worn?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If you are talking about the button in the center of the inner cap it has no spring its stiff???? Rotor spring arm is good.???? Point don't look burnt ....
 

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Not patronizing just offering solutions, Back to basics

Before throwing parts at it check a few more things.
Condenser/capacitor is only there to take excess voltage when points open and bleed it off when closed . NEVER in 40+ years have i had a condenser cause this it should not stop spark imo.
From Wikipedia " The points allow the coil to charge magnetically and then, when they are opened by a cam arrangement, the magnetic field collapses and a large (20 kV or greater) voltage is produced. The capacitor has two functions:
1) it absorbs the back EMF from the magnetic field in the coil to minimize point contact burning and maximize point life;
2) it forms a resonant circuit with the primary coil of the ignition coil transferring further energy to the secondary side until the energy is exhausted"
Your points on the other hand will.
Have you checked the GAP in the points ???Is the cam pad good? The pad that runs on the distributor cam may be worn/broken.
Do they open and close upon turning over of the engine? Take your test light and connect the alligator clip to the point feed wire inside distributor, turn ignition to ON only, place the other end of light to an earth to free up your hands, turn engine over BY HAND and watch for the light to come on and go off. If it does not alternately light and go out as you turn the engine BY HAND the points are the issue.
If it does then move onto the cap.
Is the CARBON pin inside the cap free to move, broken or missing.
Is the cap cracked, wet corroded?
Check the High tension lead (SPARK LEADS) posts for corrosion. Remove one lead at a time and check where they go into cap.
Just some info for you to help diagnose the issue
Hope it helps
Regs David
 
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