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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I really don't want to tub my 55 and I'm wondering if I can get a big enough tire in my stock wheel well for the track. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what tire and size to get? AND, am I wasting my time and $$ trying to stay within the stock wheel well?
I'm not going to be a hard core racer but I would like to make a few track passes on test and tune nights. I should be making 400-425 rwhp when my mods are complete.

Thanks.
 

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These cars vary a little from one to another. But you should be able to get a 255/60R15 on it. Back spacing is important. I think? mine are 4.5 backspacing.Thats what I have and it's pretty close. In fact before I added the traction bars if I went into a curve 10MPH over the posted limit, they rubbed the inside of the quarter panels a little. I have the old style slapper bars that bolt to the bottom of the springs and clamp toward the front of the axle.
Some say moving the springs under the frame rails, but they won't gain much if any without at least doing a mini tub.
I'm with you though, I couldn't bring myself to cut one of these cars. Save that for the rust buckets. BUT, that's my opinion and others see it differently.


Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Mike. I currently have 265/60/15's (I think) and they fit pretty nice but I would still like some input from some folks that have had some track time. I will soon be replacing my 10 bolt with a strong 12 bolt or 9" and would like to know if I will be able to get enough traction without tubbing. Thanks,
 

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If you can manage to squeeze a 275/ 60 drag radial in there it would be nice members on another board says it can be done with a 7" wheel with 3 3/4" bs. I cant verify that, you could certainly hook that much power on an 8" slick with tractionbars, but thats alot of power and I like to have some meat under me at 110 mph :)

edit: can I talk you into a minitub? :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't know about the mini-tub. I already have my car painted and trunk is so purdy. I'll look at the drag radials or maybe get an extra set of wheels with slicks for fun night.:rolleyes:
 

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ok this it it

I have a 4dr that gets the front off. No sway bar in front and Lakewood street/drag shock. This will make the front jerk up for distrabution, the shocks will keep it up. Use lake 55/50 shocks in the rear. It will sqat down and put you in the back seat. You must use a traction bar adjustable is better. You can use a rear sway bar. With the sway it will drive better on the hiway and keep the rear from twisting on green lights. I use a 245/60/15 bfg et street drag at 12-16 psi at the strip and 30 for street. This will work and all bolton. I run a 283 with about 400hp with a 3000 rpm stall and a th350 auto air shift.

This is great for the strip. If you put a front sway for street it will be awsome, take it off at the strip. Traction = distrabution and psi. If you just did the psi you will be better at the track and it is cheep. Put a 1800 rpm stall later good street/strip could drive everyday. The stall will be like NOS on a 425hp.

danchuck Helwig sway bar (big) also have traction bars
 

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slicks

If you get slicks it will put you in a different class. The problem with that is track inspection. Might need drive shaft loop 3" seat belts helmet and more. Same car just slicks. Use the street drad BFG.
 

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Go ahead, minitub that thing!!!

My 55 is mini tubbed with a 28 x12.50 Mickey Thompson E.T. street. I added 4 to 5 inches to the inner fenders with adjustable ladder bars and coil overs instead of the leaf spring side swap often used. The E.T. street with the equilavent to a 275/60 on a 7'" rim should hook the horsepower you have. I don't think a 8" wheel will fit and I also prefer a lift bar instead of the "slapper bar" style traction bar. As far as rearends go I would install the 9" ford. 12 bolt chevy's are hard to find, expensive, and unless you put C-clip eliminators in it they can come out and destroy that pretty quarter panel if an axle breaks......Learned the hard way, I destroyed a 67 Camaro quarter with a broken stock axle.
 

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Sure you can hook with out tubbing.

Good springs, shocks and lift bars, like cal tracs.

Slicks you will need to run a DS loop, but its a good idea anyway.

Drag radials are good, on the right car. Your chassis has to be set up prefect or they will not work well. Theyalso do not work well on stick cars.

Look at OSCRA, there are lots of cars running stupid fast on 10" slicks.

In fact our track has a class that is limited to a 26"x8.5" slick and they are running in the 5's in the 1/8th.

So, yes it can be done.

What is your chassis setup currently?
 

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Where are ya at Johnnyblaze???

What state are you near Johnny Blaze??? I'm near Louisville, Ky and watch the OSCA cars everytime there at our local track!! They added some more classes for the 2007 season that my 55' "might" qualify in..... I said "qualify" not win!!! I just want one of the sticker's on my windshield, would have to make a great picture to hang in my brother's office at the Chevrolet dealership...... Are you near Ky or is the OSCA other places than here??
 

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Ever try U.S. 60 raceway in Hardinsburg, ky Johnny Blaze??? Not as nice as valley but it is a fast track that hooks good and has friendly people!! not to mention it's only 15-20 minutes from my house! I race my motorcycles there often, Valley won't let me run, there too strict on techin my bike and riders equiptment.
 

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I run a 4" back space on an 8" centerline rim, with a set of 275/60/15 BF Goodrich drag radials. Had plenty of bite with 20 lbs of air. Once they get hot and with a track plenty of sticky, down you'll be lucky to brake the tires loose!! I use South Side Machine bars that bolt to the springs and you can preload the right side using spacers they provide!! I have some Pict's on my web site showing the tires and bars!!
 

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Im using the Cal trac traction bars and 235x60xR15 4.5 back spacing rim Mickey Thompson ET drag Radials 8.4 tread width w/ 425 hp 350. I can't even get them to spin, unless I use line lock.
 

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I have 275 60 15's on a 15X7 Cragar with a 4.25" backspace on my 55. There is about an inch between the tire and the fender, and about 3/4" between the tire and the inner frame/wheelwell.
A 275 60 15 BFG drag radial will stick!!! I ran a 434 in an 86 Camaro with a 700R4 and a 4.56 currie rear, and it would not turn the tire with 16 pounds on a hot track. Ran 1.6-1.7 short times.
 

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I ran 28 x 9 goodyears on 4.5 bs on mine before I added some room to the wheel well. I moved mine over to the frame. It allows much more room. I now have a 315/60/15 MT ET Drag Radial on it. They measure 30 inches tall by 13.5 wide.
 

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27x10.50x15 Hoosier Quicktime Pro DOT tires in the back, on 8" rally rims with 4" backspacing.

Puts around 400 RWHP (depending upon which HP calculator you believe) to the ground for getting a 3900 lb car & driver down the track in low-12's with 1.7 60'. Have SSM traction bars (I understand they're out of business now) and upper shock mount bar, front sway bar that I don't bother unhooking at the track, otherwise stock suspension.

I have a driveshaft loop, but with the DOT tires, it's not required until you're quicker (NHRA, anyway - not sure about IHRA, probably similar). It's a good peace-of-mind thing, and with all the rest you've done to your car, makes a lot of sense to add it.
 

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Good looking set up there Ol Boy!!! Do ya like those particular tires???? Plan on running the 325/50 on that back of my 55' just havn't made up my mind on which ones!! Have heard so many diiferent stories about how they hook and how may miles you can get out of them on the street...any comments???? Pros or cons????? Thanks!!!
 
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