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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I read a lot of posts on patching the floors, new pans, and what not but no one really mentioned what they did to seal the floors after. I'm chasing down gas fumes in my new wagon (4 days old) and when I had it on the rack I noticed 2 floor pans patch with what loos like an overlap welds. I also have some rotted floor braces. Basically the floor patch was installed from the top down. I haven't pulled the carpet yet to see if its completely welded around but if not or even if so, what can I do to seal up the floor to check that off my exhaust leak list?

Thanks in advance.

-jds
"new wagon owner trying to stop the exhaust fumes so the kids can ride with me...."
 

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I've use rtv sealant or seam sealer. Seam sealer is what I recommend and can be found alot of places. Just follow the directions. It doesn't shrink and can be painted. It does sound like you floors are needing replaced so if they are overlapped now, you can fix that when you replace the floors. Lapped floor pans just doesn't make any sense to me, it allows a hidding place for water and increases rusting. For some reason, I'm seeing alot of that though. Good luck
Josh
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info. My floors do need to be replaced along with the braces at some point but that will have to be some time in the future. Right now I want to drive it without the gas fumes. :) Another person recommended 3M Ultrapro Autobody Sealant and then Wurth high-build underseal. What do you think?
 

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might want to check your complete exhaust system all the way back from your eng. to the rear. :confused0006:
 

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Keep in mind

Thanks for the info. My floors do need to be replaced along with the braces at some point but that will have to be some time in the future. Right now I want to drive it without the gas fumes. :) Another person recommended 3M Ultrapro Autobody Sealant and then Wurth high-build underseal. What do you think?
that your body is supported by the braces and they in turn, at the ends, attach to your chassis. Depending on the severity of the rotted condition along with the quantity of the locations, you may be in jeopardy should you (I pray it doesn't) be involved in a wreck.


As to undercoating, I wouldn't waste the $$$ until repairs were completed.

JMHO and 2¢
 

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I read a lot of posts on patching the floors, new pans, and what not but no one really mentioned what they did to seal the floors after. I'm chasing down gas fumes in my new wagon (4 days old) and when I had it on the rack I noticed 2 floor pans patch with what loos like an overlap welds. I also have some rotted floor braces. Basically the floor patch was installed from the top down. I haven't pulled the carpet yet to see if its completely welded around but if not or even if so, what can I do to seal up the floor to check that off my exhaust leak list?

Thanks in advance.

-jds
"new wagon owner trying to stop the exhaust fumes so the kids can ride with me...."
I think you are looking at the wrong end of the horse. If your exhaust system is good, It doesn;t matter if your floors are sealed. Id say you have some exhaust issues that need to be addressed first.

As far as lap welds go, The whole dang car is built with lap/lip welds. ITs just that most people don;t want floor repairs to show. Its more a matter of hiding the repair than strength or rust. A good 3M sealer will do the trick, until you decide what to do.
Gary
 

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On a wagon, much of your exhaust is coming in the draft areas at the rear. Make sure your door and windows seal tight. Also, the exit of your tailpipes might be at the rear which doesn't help. Out the sides near the rear is better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
that your body is supported by the braces and they in turn, at the ends, attach to your chassis. Depending on the severity of the rotted condition along with the quantity of the locations, you may be in jeopardy should you (I pray it doesn't) be involved in a wreck.


As to undercoating, I wouldn't waste the $$$ until repairs were completed.

JMHO and 2¢
The floor braces that attach to the frame are fine and solid. The 2 others have some rot on the ends of the braces but are still attached to the outside of the body. I'm looking into just cutting those and installing the replacement ends along with redoing the floor pan patches on the passenger side.

Thanks for the info.

I'm inspecting the exhaust as well, but noticed the welds and was looking to seal those anyhow. The PO has the exhaust out 1-2" past the rear bumper with a slight down turn. I will most likely move those as I did in my 64 Impala SS to save the rear bumper, trunk from the exhaust.

-jds
 

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seam sealer

From ecklers seam sealer in caulking gun tube 11 oz.#880187 $9.99. Somone used to carry a brushable luquid like you see on seam near were front fender meet body but I don't remember who carried it.:anim_25:
Danchuck also has ttubes in different brand for &19.95
 

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Floor pans

Does anyone know of a better deal on complete area floor pans and trunk pans? The best price I've found is $1300 for the floor area and about $700 for the trunk area both including the bracing attached. Also, has anyone ever run across any info on plans designed to fabricate your own floors? Thanks, Marcus
 

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Does anyone know of a better deal on complete area floor pans and trunk pans? The best price I've found is $1300 for the floor area and about $700 for the trunk area both including the bracing attached. Also, has anyone ever run across any info on plans designed to fabricate your own floors? Thanks, Marcus
Check out http://www.chevroletrestorationworld.com/

Jon
 

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Floor Pan Prices

Jon, thanks for the tip on Restoration World for the full floor sheet metal. Their prices are a lot lower than what I was seeing elsewhere. I live in Michigan, so I might be able to make the trip over to Ohio and save the shipping costs aswell. Thanks again for your help. Marcus
 
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