Scratch that, number one plug is at 4 o'clock right now.
Noob question about timing
I attempted to give my car a tune up which included new plug wires and it turns out that my distributor is not where its supposed to be. Meaning the number one plug on the distributor should be at 7 o'clock but mine is more like at 10 or 11. I assume this is because the timing chain was put on incorrectly but anyway here is my question...are the timing marks now out of whack? Should I still try to time it at 8 degrees or is it going to be off?
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
If the motor was running good before the tune up the timing chain should be okay . Who ever installed the dist had the rotor pointing to the wrong plug wire
with the motor at tdc no#1 so they just started the firing order there thats okay your timing marks will be okay too
with the motor at tdc no#1 so they just started the firing order there thats okay your timing marks will be okay too
Thanks Mitch. When I had the timing light on it, the timing mark was waaaaay advanced but it was running good so I was puzzled. I turned it back to 8 degrees and I seem to have lost some power.
Some cams like alot of timing thats okay so long its starts okay
It was getting to be a hard start when it was warmed up.
You may have it too far advanced for warm starting, even though it runs better.
Are you disconnecting the vacuum advance and plugging the hose when checking timing? It is essential that you do that.
Are you disconnecting the vacuum advance and plugging the hose when checking timing? It is essential that you do that.
I disconnected the vacuum advance but did not plug anything. Its hard because I have the stainless steel vacuum advance line and its hard to get on and off as well as turn the distributor with that on there. I hate to bend it every time I set the timing.You may have it too far advanced for warm starting, even though it runs better.
Are you disconnecting the vacuum advance and plugging the hose when checking timing? It is essential that you do that.
What size is your motor ? any mods?
265 no mods. All stock.
If you didn't remove the dizzy, then the no. 1 you had is the one you need.Meaning the number one plug on the distributor should be at 7 o'clock but mine is more like at 10 or 11.
That is to say if no.1 wire was at 4 o'clock then put it back that way.
It doesn't really matter where it is as long as they're all in the right sequence and it runs right.
That goes back to the no1 cylinder at TDC (compression stroke) and no1 wire on the socket that the rotor is pointing to which ever one that may be.
If you have to have it at a certian "o'clock" it will require pulling the distributor up and rotating the shaft to that position. But that can open a whole 'nuther can of worms with getting the oil pump driver lined up...more trouble than it's worth.
If the vacuum advance is hooked up it will show waaaaay advanced with the timing light. Hence, disconnect it and plug off the vacuum line before checking the timing.
You might try replacing the stainless line with a rubber hose until you get the timing just right. Then bend the stainless once and be done.
Are you running HEI or points?
hello,
did you pull the distributor when you did your tune-up..if you did then it is installed improperly. if not then you might have put the plug wires on incorrectly as you seem to indicate it was running before the new tune.
i would try to check the timing again. start by 1st determining top dead center on the number 1 cylinder...have someone crank the motor over with the plugs out and finger over the number 1 plug hole (not in it!) .with the valve cover off you can see the lifters moving up and down on number 1, just as they stop moving you should see the timing mark lining up with the crank mark..if not is is 180 off and you need one more revolution. when it is verified to be at tdc you can check the distributor to see where the rotor is pointing and which cylinder is getting spark. you can remove the distributor.
if it is off and using a long screw driver rotate the slot inside the hole the distributor came out of (this slot is driven by the oil pump and needs only a little movement ..so do it in increments .) put the distributor back in. if it fails to seat lift it out and move the rotor a little at a time until it seats and is where you want it to be on the manifold, you may have to adjust it several times to have it in a satisfactory position. the rotor should point to the wire on the number 1 cylinder( towards the number 2 cylinder with the window on the distributor a little to the left of the carb) facing the front of the car..note if it is off you can move the wires to match the rotor as long as you are at top dead center on number 1.
you should have the car warmed up with the vacuum line plugged to get a proper dwell/timing reading..set the dwell to 25 to 30. set the timing etc.
regards, aero
did you pull the distributor when you did your tune-up..if you did then it is installed improperly. if not then you might have put the plug wires on incorrectly as you seem to indicate it was running before the new tune.
i would try to check the timing again. start by 1st determining top dead center on the number 1 cylinder...have someone crank the motor over with the plugs out and finger over the number 1 plug hole (not in it!) .with the valve cover off you can see the lifters moving up and down on number 1, just as they stop moving you should see the timing mark lining up with the crank mark..if not is is 180 off and you need one more revolution. when it is verified to be at tdc you can check the distributor to see where the rotor is pointing and which cylinder is getting spark. you can remove the distributor.
if it is off and using a long screw driver rotate the slot inside the hole the distributor came out of (this slot is driven by the oil pump and needs only a little movement ..so do it in increments .) put the distributor back in. if it fails to seat lift it out and move the rotor a little at a time until it seats and is where you want it to be on the manifold, you may have to adjust it several times to have it in a satisfactory position. the rotor should point to the wire on the number 1 cylinder( towards the number 2 cylinder with the window on the distributor a little to the left of the carb) facing the front of the car..note if it is off you can move the wires to match the rotor as long as you are at top dead center on number 1.
you should have the car warmed up with the vacuum line plugged to get a proper dwell/timing reading..set the dwell to 25 to 30. set the timing etc.
regards, aero
In my 57 shop manual for ignition timing it said disconnect vacuum advance
run motor at 1000 rpm then set timing to 4 deg BUDC (advance) then reset Idle
450 to500 for std trans, 400 to 450 with auto trans . but no two motors run the same .My motor timing is 12 deg advance and a idle of 750 rpms are you still running points setting for then is .016"
run motor at 1000 rpm then set timing to 4 deg BUDC (advance) then reset Idle
450 to500 for std trans, 400 to 450 with auto trans . but no two motors run the same .My motor timing is 12 deg advance and a idle of 750 rpms are you still running points setting for then is .016"
My bday came up so working on the 55 was put on hold. Thanks for the information. Im going out there today to try it out.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Chevy Tri Five Forum
A forum community dedicated to 1955, 1956, and 1957 Chevy owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about restoration, engine swaps, reviews, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more! Open to all models including Belair, 210, 150, Sedans, and Nomads.
Full Forum Listing
Top Contributors this Month
View All
Shadetree55
423 Replies
55wagoncrazy
233 Replies
BamaNomad
199 Replies
Recommended Communities
