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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Not sure if this is the right place to post this so mods, please move if necessary.

Anyway, now that I have the 427 installed in my 57 (see THIS THREAD), I figured I'd start working on some of the minor things that have been bugging me. The first is the Deluxe Heater. It's ALL messed up!!

The levers don't work (probably old, crusty cables), the heater control valve is MIA, the motor is frozen (so I purchased a 74 Monte Carlo motor from O'REILLY as discussed in THIS THREAD, although I haven't installed it yet), the passenger side fender air duct (see picture below) is filled with grass, twigs, etc... (which tells me at some point in time there may have been a mouse taking up residence in the car), and I'm not sure about the heater core since it's not hooked up. Therefore, I have a few questions...

1. I was doing a search through the Library and found the 1957 SERVICE NEWS that shows a "home made" turnbuckle that allows you to remove the air duct without removing the fender (July, 1957, pages 43 and 44 - see the PDF attached below). Has anyone ever done this before and if so, how did it work out? Or, does anyone have a better way of doing this? I'd like to clean out the grass, twigs, mouse droppings (?) etc... Also, will this work for the driver side as well?

2. Since I'm running a 427, I'm using a larger aluminum radiator and a 15 pound radiator cap. I've read on the site that the original stock heater core can't handle that amount of pressure so I'm planning on either getting it recorded by a local radiator shop I've used before, or buying an aluminum replacement like THIS ONE on ebay. Will these aluminum heater cores take the 15 pounds of pressure or will I still have problems?

That's it for now, but there will probably be more questions as I dive into the project.

Thanks
Ed

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well, let's forget about the turnbuckle for a while and talk about the heater core. Can the new aluminum heater cores handle 15 pounds of pressure? On that same note, I read that the heater control valve may not handle 15 pounds of pressure either, but can anyone verify this?

Ed
 

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I believe that the new aluminum heater cores can withstand 15psi, the heater control valve is only available as is, havent heard of any fail with increased psi.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Update: Using a combination of my shop-vac, my air compressor and an unbent coat hanger, I was able to get all the twigs and grass out of the two air ducts (see pictures attached). It was a pain and took 2 hours, but at least I didn't have to remove the ducts. The passenger side was worse than the drive side, but not by much!! Both were filled with twigs and junk. Looked more like hay than twigs. So a mouse? I kind of doubt it. I found NO jellybeans!

On a related note, I found that the passenger side flapper valve cable is broken at the control assembly, but the cable is still frozen since I wasn't able to move the flapper at all by hand. The driver side cable is frozen as well, and the temperature control cable isn't hooked up since the valve is missing. The defroster cable is the only one that works, but it's still hard to move. Looks like I'll be replacing all the cables and buying a new valve.

In the meantime, I removed the control assembly bezel and unscrewed the control assembly itself, but how does it come out? From the rear or do you push it through the hole?

Ed

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Have an aluminum heater core in a 57 I tested it @ 20 psi before installation = no leaks.
Donated the stock temp valve to a user here I use a cable operated valve in the heater hose like those used on 80's Dodge trucks. If you go that route you need to be aware of valve direction of lever operation & you need one for 3/4" hose.
Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was actually thinking about using an in-line hose valve! They're a LOT cheaper than the original valves! Do you happen to have the exact application?

And thanks for the update on the aluminum heater core. Depending on how much my radiator guy will charge me to recore it, it may be cheaper to get the aluminum one.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Just to let the next guy know, the 3/4" in-line hose cable driven heater valve was used on several years and models, but if you go to RockAuto, just do a search on 1974 International Scout II with a 304 engine and you'll see the 5/8" valve and the 3/4" valve. The part numbers for the 3/4" valve are 74678, 19187803 or 662013. Doing a Google search, there are several interchange part numbers and I just purchased a P/N H38C-2678-030 valve on ebay for $20 including shipping.

Note that most of these things are made in China, so I can't vouch for the quality. I discovered that the H38C-2678-030 I got off of ebay is made in Mexico (see picture below), so again, I can't vouch for the quality (as of yet), but Mexico is usually just a hair better than China!

Ed

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Update:

I was able to get the Transition off (although it was a MAJOR pain because the bottom driver side mounting stud is right up against the valve cover - see picture below). I ended up bending the he!! out of the Transition mounting surface, but I was able to hammer it back into position, unfortunately scratching my nice, beautiful valve cover in the removal process. Not a huge issue since it shouldn't be seen once I get the heater back together, but it still hurt just the same! Question - Are these studs welded in place or screwed in place? I'd like to remove it to keep it from touching the valve cover. I can reposition it lower if I can get it off.

The Heater Control Valve WAS still connected as you can see from the picture below. It still had the Capillary Tube attached, but apparently at some point, it broke and someone twisted the two pieces together (see picture below)! I don't think it would work that way, right? It's also missing the water tubes so basically, it's history since I'm assuming no one rebuilds these things?

The Transition gasket appears to me to be "home made". I'm assuming a "factory" gasket is a MUCH better design!

Oh, and by the way, IF the heater core was okay, it isn't now! I ruined it taking the Transition off!

Ed

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, I got the stud off and just to let everyone know, it's not screwed or bolted on, and I'm not even sure it's welded on because it's hollow! I ended up having to cut if off.

And here's a hint, if you ever have one of these things break or rust off on you, there's no reproduction available. BUT, after doing some online searches for "ball stud", I found a stud that you can screw in to take its place. It's actually a ball stud for a trunk lift support made by Stabilus. Most auto parts stores carry them and I got mine from O'Reilly, P/N SG900001. Note that it has a 10mm ball stud which is almost exactly what the originals are, but it's 8mm x 1.25 thread so you can either drill the existing hole out and use the enclosed washer and nut or, like I did, I drilled and tapped a new hole, threaded the stud in the hole then finished it off with the washer and nut.

Ed
 
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