[last1]

I am currently planning a 454-200R install in my 57 210 2 dr. If my remember correctly 45 years ago I put a 327 in my very first car--
a 26,000 mi 55 2dr sedan, 6 cylinder stick--4 months later a buddy
had his brand new 66 chevelle SS totaled with 150 miles on it. We
just yanked the 327/3spd and bolted the 396/350/4spd in. I had
already fabricated side mounts and cross member for the 327 swap.
I am almost sure we used the chevelle manifolds and bent up exhaust
pipes. Is my mind going or was it that simple? Granted I was young and
probably a little crude but I don't remember 3/4 forward or 1 1/2 forward.
Sorry for the length but i read this forum and only get more confused.
Thanks

 

[Black 55]

Quite possibly did, but remember back then we used the hammer a lot looser. On the newer engines most run hei dist. and taller valve covers which requires more clearance from the firewall. good luck jim

 

[USA1]

Quite possibly did, but remember back then we used the hammer a lot looser. On the newer engines most run hei dist. and taller valve covers which requires more clearance from the firewall. good luck jim

These give you clearence for all the above, I used an Eldebrock mech fuel pump with a clockable base.

Click on above image to view full picture(s)


1955-57 Big Block Side Engine Mount Kit Chevy Side Engine Mount Kit, Big Block, 1955-1957
•Bolts-On, No Welding Required
•Requires Drilling
•Moves Engine Forward 2-1/4" For Proper Firewall Clearance
•Mounts Any Mark IV, V Or VI Big Block Chevy
•Does Not Require Use Of "Mid" Mounts
•For Use With Rear Crossmember P/N 19-153
•Use With P/N 24-56 Headers Or Stock Manifolds
•Allows Removal (Not Required) Of Stock Transmission Frame Horns
•Includes Brackets, Hardware, Grommets & Instructions
•Requires Use Of Oil Pan P/N 18-205 Or 18-210

 

[Z/28Dave]

Part #s?

Hi, I saw the response above referencing the BBC motor mounts etc. Can you tell me who the manufacturer is so I can get a catalog on its way?

My buddy has finally decided to put a 427 in his '57 Bel Air-I'm the install guy.

I'm also looking for parts to upgrade his front suspension and change his brakes to front disc while we do this little upgrade.

Any help you could give is VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!!!!

Thanks, Dave

 

[USA1]

Those are Ecklers or CCI part # lots of pictures & Instructions on there website.

 

[Z/28Dave]

Thank you!

Great thank you!

 

[Chevynut]

IMO the CCI BBC engine swap kits are WAY overpriced (1200-1400) and put the engine further forward than it needs to be. Most guys are putting their BBCs 1.25-1.5" forward and they have enough room for everything in back. The distributor is NOT the problem it's the heads and the valve covers that hit the firewall. The further forward you go the more you limit your options for your accessories, fans, etc. Sure, it can be done 2 1/4" forward but it doesn't need to go that far.

Be careful when buying a complete BBC swap kit from CCI. You will note that some of them require the use of the original bellhousing mounts on the frame. That also requires that your exhaust runs under the mounts, and if you want to lower the car it will cause problems. Plus, unless you add a fifth mounting point at the back of the tranny, your tranny is hanging in the breeze. I think side mounts and a tranny crossmember are the way to go.

Also be careful with the headers. The mounts above recommend the use of their 234-56 headers that CCI sells. This is what it says about those headers...

http://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-headers-2-tube-big-block-1955-1957.html

"Requires Use Of CCI Rack & Pinion Steering"

That just added $800 to your engine swap. It says you can use stock manifolds but I don't know if anyone has successfully done that with a regular steering box.

I recommend mocking up your engine the way you want it, locating it where everything clears and installing homemade or aftermarket side mounts and a tranny crossmember. That's the way Chevy did it from the early 1960's on. There are also engine mount kits like those from Earle Williams and others that will work for a lot less money. A Milodon or Moroso oilpan solves the interference problem and there are headers that work too.

Bottom line is I think you can pice together your BBC install parts for less money than these swap kits and get what you want. Also, there's no need to go 2 1/4" forward, and if you're wanting to use something like a Vintage Air Frontrunner or oher aftermarket accessory drive system you really want to be sure you have room for it.

There are a lot of threads on BBC installations and even a complete forum on it here on TriFive. I suggest you read some of that info before you dive into the swap. Good luck!

BTW, I used to work in Shawnee Mission KS when I lived in KCMO when I was going to aircraft mechanics school...way back when.

 

[USA1]

I run the 2 1/4 foward with hedmen full lenth headers and a 500 ps box. I have a BBC ChevyII pan. I do not have mid mounts. I run a 4 speed.and the 2 1/4 foward allowed me to use a stock driveshaft with my Dana 60, extra long pinion.

Tell your car its a BBC 67 Camaro when buying pulleys and ps and alt brackets, hoses, etc. This set up fits nice and looks like it belongs there. I would not buy the kit either.

 

[black 150]

I've had the Hurst front mounts for the big block in my '56 since 1974. They were designed to keep the same transmission mounting points (I used a 4-speed back then with stock bellhousing). Yes, I had to beat the firewall to clear the heads/valve covers, but I always felt I maintained some semblance of balance over the front end. Reading about the kits that move the engine forward for clearance purposes to me is counterproductive. What you gain in less firewall massaging you lose to increased front weight bias. Plus, as already stated, headers, oil pans, steering racks, etc. may be needed. I massaged the stock 5qt oil pan to clear the steering linkage. Still using the same pan 36 years later. Running an MSD distributor, not HEI.

I'm still using the same Hurst mounts, with tranny side mounts from Danchuk that I bought many moons ago, as well as a rear tranny mount on a homemade crossmember.

I'm using Sanderson BB1 headers, which clear nicely on both sides, and allowed me to tuck the exhaust into the tranny mount frame horns - you basically cannot see the exhaust when looking at the car from the side. And I have 2" lowering spindles from Heidt's with lowering springs.

 

[Rick_L]

I am with chevynut here.

Mounting the engine 2-1/4" forward causes additional problems with the steering linkage and possibly the radiator to fan (or accessory drive) clearance.

Better is to install the engine 3/4" forward +/-, then you have minor firewall clearance problems that are pretty easy to deal with, and you can run the stock steering if you get a notched oil pan, available from several places. You'll also have clearance at the front if you mount the radiator in front of the support.

Earle Williams has the engine mounts, oil pan, headers, etc. for a 3/4" forward installation. A bit pricey but well made and worth it. If you are a fabricator you can do all this yourself if you are so inclined.

 

[zookpr]

I've had the Hurst front mounts for the big block in my '56 since 1974.

The above is the 1st on the money response to the posting "OLD SCHOOL BIG BLOCK INSTALL ??" Old school did not involve selecting over priced installation parts over the internet. $1500, $2000, and only the installation parts, no engine, is plain insane. Old school meant identifing the requirments and designing/fabricating/installing the hardware yourself. It may have even meant taking out the hammer and dolly. It didn't mean to keep buying other parts to correct the short commings of the intial parts. It meant doing part of the task within the skills/tools available and asking friends/relatives, or the local weld shop for some small part of the overall task not within the home array of tools. In the "old school" days folks had far less tools at their disposal than today. Old school also meant that when a few products from Hurst/Lakewood came along, buying those products for a few bucks. Yes, they are still a few bucks today, compared to $1500-$2000 bucks for some of the products being discussed. As stated above some still serve the test of time too. :tu

 

[USA1]

I totaliy disagree with the last few post, no one does there car today more " old school" than I did mine, I may have bought CCIs mounts but thats it, do people build their own Hurst stuff. Historically I have done more with Camaros, so most of the parts I listed as such were free. I attended swap meets from Texas to Nebraska for the rest. The 3/4 side mounts. tubular trans mount that came with the car fit like a saddle on a sow, the only thing I used that came with the car was the new hedders. The 62-67 BBC Falcon II oil pan cost 35 dollars at a swap meet.

 

[55]

Some good advice here and some that leaves question, but there is much to be said in some of the suggestions made by those here who have already done, one, two or many BBC installs. I took the advice of many here and bought the BBC mounts from Earle at Williams. The new ones are beautiful and will stand up to any horsepower configuration. My engine is 3/4" forward and next week we will alter the firewall a touch for the tall valve covers to clear. From there, we will weld in the new Williams mounts and the rest will be history. If you haven't looked at Earles mounts, then you should take 5 minutes and do this before setting any other plans in motion.

The earlier advice from Chevynut and Rick L is spot on guys!

Check them out for yourself by following this link.

Yes...They are that nice, and yes...they are the way to go!

 

[Zody]

Just in the middle of fitting a big block into my 57 using the small block side mounting position, the engine is set back as far as i could go, but had to modify the each side of the firewall, the dizzy has around 1/4" clearence from the firewall un-mod'ed, made 2 x inspection panels for the firewall behind each cylinder head inside the car...so far the install is going real well....I'm a great fan of setting engine's back as far as possible for weight transfer also handling purposes..:tu

Here a couple pic's.

 

[zookpr]

Just in the middle of fitting a big block into my 57 using the small block side mounting position, the engine is set back as far as i could go, but had to modify the each side of the firewall, the dizzy has around 1/4" clearence from the firewall un-mod'ed, made 2 x inspection panels for the firewall behind each cylinder head inside the car...so far the install is going real well....I'm a great fan of setting engine's back as far as possible for weight transfer also handling purposes..:tu

Here a couple pic's.

Looking good Zody. I see the alternator in the "stock" short-pump position. Now that's old school. ZK

 

[Zody]

Looking good Zody. I see the alternator in the "stock" short-pump position. Now that's old school. ZK

Yeah managed to find a company here in the UK that stocked the OEM brackets :tu (even chrome one's)

Thanks ZK

 

[MONK]

Old school 409 install

Combination old school and new

Headers made from scratch, cross member
for tranny as well

All engine brackets fabbed by hand

Custom oil pan from Stef

Motor moved forward 3/4"

 

[wayne557]

Some good advice here and some that leaves question, but there is much to be said in some of the suggestions made by those here who have already done, one, two or many BBC installs. I took the advice of many here and bought the BBC mounts from Earle at Williams. The new ones are beautiful and will stand up to any horsepower configuration. My engine is 3/4" forward and next week we will alter the firewall a touch for the tall valve covers to clear. From there, we will weld in the new Williams mounts and the rest will be history. If you haven't looked at Earles mounts, then you should take 5 minutes and do this before setting any other plans in motion.

The earlier advice from Chevynut and Rick L is spot on guys!

Check them out for yourself by following this link.

Yes...They are that nice, and yes...they are the way to go!

I am going the same way with my 57 502 Ramjet , Williams everything , Mounts/ Headers /crossmember /sump / springs /spring pocket kit , Earl has done this for a long time knows his stuff and a nice guy , i figure try to buy from the one supplier it should pay off in the long run,
should be fitting it all up next few days will take lots of pics ics-1:

Wayne.

 

[Chevynut]

Just in the middle of fitting a big block into my 57 using the small block side mounting position, the engine is set back as far as i could go, but had to modify the each side of the firewall, the dizzy has around 1/4" clearence from the firewall un-mod'ed, made 2 x inspection panels for the firewall behind each cylinder head inside the car...so far the install is going real well....I'm a great fan of setting engine's back as far as possible for weight transfer also handling purposes..:tu

An inch or two out of a 115" wheelbase isn't going to make a bit of difference from a practical point of view, especially on a street-driven car. It's about 1% of the wheelbase.

Why didn't you go back more and cut out the firewall for more setback if you think it helps so much?

 

[Zody]

An inch or two out of a 115" wheelbase isn't going to make a bit of difference from a practical point of view, especially on a street-driven car. It's about 1% of the wheelbase.

Why didn't you go back more and cut out the firewall for more setback if you think it helps so much?

I would have set it back more, but wanted to keep the same position as the small block came out...

I must learn to keep my opinion's to myself, as one way & another you get shut down