Change fluids, plugs and points. I have found it best to bypass or replace the gas tank. Blow out the fuel lines. I have put some oil in the cylinders and turn the engine by hand to make sure no valves are stuck open, if there is the engine will stop turning by hand and maybe no damage will occur. If it has been setting 20+ you might also want to pull the valve covers and dump new motor oil all over the rockers.
I'm thinking that the most overlooked advice is to replace the gas tank, lines, etc. or at least clean them out real good. I'm pretty sure that most of my problems are due to NOT doing that. Now I should drop and clean the tank, replace the lines and filter, and maybe the pump. Seems like lots of work, but might be the only way to solve my on-going troubles.
Mine sits sometimes for three or four weeks just because I don't have time to get out into the garage and exercise it! I hope to get there today. Every time I start it I wonder what kind of sludge I'm sucking out of the gas tank and into that clean, rebuilt carb. of mine! Then I say, well now that I know how to rebuild the carb I can do it again if I have to! Anybody lazier than me out there?
An old trick is to set the engine on TDC, mark the distributor position, and pull the distributor. Knock the handle off a flat blade screwdriver w/long shank and chuck the shank in a cordless drill. Insert the blade tip into the oil pump drive & drive clockwise w/ ign. key on until oil pressure light goes off. You know the crank and lifters/rockers have received oil. Reinstall distributor. (Engine experts jump in & edit if info not correct. This is for a V8). This site ROCKS!!! THANKS to all the posters & Admins for enough info to get my 56 BelAire on the road w/reliability. It's not a trailer queen, just a weekend warrior,but we like it. THANKS - Stan
Cheap $$ to buy and then I don't have to go borrow when I need it. I'm a mechanic so I seem to aquire tools. One of the few proffesions where you have a sizeable investment to be able to earn a living.
A priming tool is a must, as it includes the shaft mounted collar which serves as the portion of the distributor body that facilitates the transfer of oil from the pump to both lifter galleys. The screwdriver method only charges the oil filter and the main and rod bearings. With the valve covers off, spin the priming tool clockwise and watch for oil being delivered to each rocker arm. It may be necessary to rotate the engine by hand, or starter, a few half revolutions to see oil at all sixteen rockers. Then light it up!
The oiling system on the early Chev V8's is a spectacular bit of engineering. At high rpm it moves so much oil to the valvetrain, racers restrict it to keep the valve covers from flooding with oil during competition. The intake valve guides and stem seals can be overwhelmed and ingest oil into the combustion chamber if deluged. Remember, there is vacuum present most times in the intake port.
I love this site! My primer is an old distributor shaft and body w/cam gear ground off, so I guess it does right, but I didn't know about the lifter galley thing. Man, I learn something EVERY time I log on. THANKS - Stan
To night I changed the fluids, spark plugs, wires and battery. Primed it squirted each cylinder and the rockers. Put a fuel filter on before the pump sprayed a little starter fluid in the carb turned the key and it started right up for a second or two. No gas. Poured a little in the tank and found it on the floor I have a ¼ inch hole in the tank. My brother is going to get it welded up for me tomorrow. I hope to start it up tomorrow night.
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