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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a 55 belair with what i was told is an orig 55 block. it needs top end work due to its age THIS IS A WORKING ENGINE ! but for the cost to switch the 2brl to a 4brl with carb an intake and head work its only 600. diff if i get a new crate engine wich will be more reliable everythin new.. i not to sure i want to invest fixin the orig w/o knowing if or how long the bottom end will be... any opions on what should i do
also if i sell my old running engine to someone or a swap meet what will be a good price for the complete engine w original block ??? this is a clean painted engine not a dirty **** lol thanx for any input Good morning
 

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Trifive Automotive Electrical Wiring Expert
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How original is the rest of the car and do you want to keep it original? If you have other mods/updates, haveing a original engine doesn't mean much. Also, find out if the engine is, in fact, original to the car by checking date codes of the car and engine. Date code specs are in the library.
Original engines are good to someone only if the date codes of the engine match the date codes of their car, so there is a limited market for such engines.
And, a new crate engine will cost a lot more than $600 and you still need the manifold and carb on a long block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ya i meant that 600. was the diff in price for what i would spend on fixn the orig engine compared to getting a new one so i am leaning on a new engine
 

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How original is the rest of the car and do you want to keep it original? If you have other mods/updates, haveing a original engine doesn't mean much. Also, find out if the engine is, in fact, original to the car by checking date codes of the car and engine. Date code specs are in the library.
Original engines are good to someone only if the date codes of the engine match the date codes of their car, so there is a limited market for such engines.
And, a new crate engine will cost a lot more than $600 and you still need the manifold and carb on a long block.
I agree ,,,
 

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Crankshaft flange.

If you will be running an iron Powerglide, be mindful of flexplate (flywheel) compatibility in relation to the engine crankshaft flange. '86-up styles will be harder to match.
 

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How original is the rest of the car and do you want to keep it original? If you have other mods/updates, haveing a original engine doesn't mean much. Also, find out if the engine is, in fact, original to the car by checking date codes of the car and engine. Date code specs are in the library.
Original engines are good to someone only if the date codes of the engine match the date codes of their car, so there is a limited market for such engines.
And, a new crate engine will cost a lot more than $600 and you still need the manifold and carb on a long block.

This is what I would consider....:anim_25:
:gba:
bowtie-trifive
 

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if it is not all original, I would also go for a new crate eng.. :anim_25:
 

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It is all according to what you want to do with the car. I went through this same delima a couple of months ago. My 57 Sport Sedan is not 100% stock as it has metal flake paint that looks similar to Serria Gold and the interior is patterned after the 57 but in different materials. The original 283 had two spun rod bearings. My choices were rebuild the 283, rebuild and install a 350 Vortec that I had or go with a new crate engine. The crate engine may have cost me a few less dollars but in the end I could not bring myself to not use the original 283 that had been with the car for 56 years. I did install a Edelbrock intake with oil filler tube and a Edelbrock carb. I painted the intake so when you look under the hood it looks to be mostly original except for a alternator and a chrome air cleaner. I am very pleased with my decision to stay with the 283. But as I said in the first sentence... it is your car and you should do what YOU want to do and what you have the mechanical ability to do!
 

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Sounds like that the original V8 may just be tired.

If you are a little hands on a rebuild, just the basic parts, rings, bearings, cam, gasket set, push rods etc etc you will be out of pocket up around $1200for parts (source out cheaper at a lower price), if you can do the assembly you know what you have already, that will probably last you another 50 years.

:anim_25:
 

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Since an opinion was requested, I'll offer mine.

I believe the car is far more interesting and noteworthy with the original engine in place.

The 265 is an historic power plant - the First Edition of the legendary Chevy Small Block, a true icon. To see it functioning as it was originally built and doing it's job well nearly 60 years later is an impressive thing to see, and makes the car a REAL 1955 Chevrolet, as it was built and intended to be.

I say do what ever is necessary to restore the original engine, keep it there where it was born. Then you also have a blueprint to go by, to know what is "correct" and authentic, instead of making compromises for appearance or function.

Hey, it's your car and I respect that. The above is just my opinion. Then again, I just bought a set of new bias ply tires for my wagon. That's what it came with, so that's what goes back on. Lots of guys tell me I'm crazy and should "upgrade" to radials. But I drove around on bias tires for many years (before radials were ever heard of) and they worked just fine. And they still will, and as an added bonus the spare will fit in it's intended well, too... and I use a single pot master cylinder, and drum brakes, and a Delco battery, and all kinds of similar Old School throw-back thinking.
 

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My 55 has it's original 265 and there's not a lot left that do.

... and it looks great that way. (Profile album tells the whole story!)
 
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