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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The tailgate area is square but I have confirmed that the C pillars are out-of-square by 1/4 inch on the diagonal, i.e., when measured from the top of the C pillar to the bottom of the liftgate strut, there is a 1/4 difference between the two sides. That measurement should be the same even though the C pillars taper in at the top. Bad JuJu! :hammer:

How would you fix this problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've been working with him. He's gone above and beyond service. I'm just looking for second opinions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I worked part time in a body shop in the '60's and saw guys jack openings for hoods, trunks, and doors to get them to fit after they were hung. The Nomad C pillars are boxed sheet metal that should take mild "persuasion" to move 1/4 inch.:p3:
 

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Honestly as long as the liftgate and tailgate work properly and seal OK I wouldn't mess with it. these cars were far from perfect from the factory. If it was ok for the general it is probably ok for me.
 

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I would think you could square up the opening with a porta power or similar apparatus, as you mentioned. I would probably want to take the side windows out unless you were going to replace them later anyway (afraid they'd crack). And that's the other question, would the side windows fit after this procedure. I'd think they could fit and seal better in most cases.

Just thinking out loud here, no experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The hinges are at the max to get the bottom right of liftgate to clear the body (pic #3) and almost contacting the roof (Pic #1). But right now its working.

IMG_0281.jpg

IMG_0282.jpg

IMG_0283.jpg

IMG_0284.jpg
 

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I would think you could square up the opening with a porta power or similar apparatus, as you mentioned. I would probably want to take the side windows out unless you were going to replace them later anyway (afraid they'd crack). And that's the other question, would the side windows fit after this procedure. I'd think they could fit and seal better in most cases.

Just thinking out loud here, no experience.
the first thing that came to my mind was the glass, especially reproduced glass. the curved glass seems to give people some problems as it is during installation
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I would think you could square up the opening with a porta power or similar apparatus, as you mentioned. I would probably want to take the side windows out unless you were going to replace them later anyway (afraid they'd crack). And that's the other question, would the side windows fit after this procedure. I'd think they could fit and seal better in most cases.

Just thinking out loud here, no experience.
I would use a manual arraignment for better control to get just what I need or even less, 3/16 would do ... slow and easy to let the stress disipate. A question would be where to "push" from.

But yeah, will the side glass handle a 3/16 -1/4 deflection while mounted in rubber?
 

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the thing to remember here is to push only what needs to be moved. also remember that it won't be all taken up in 1 glass joint just spread out over a couple areas depending on how much you move it.
 

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But yeah, will the side glass handle a 3/16 -1/4 deflection while mounted in rubber?
Think about it. If the liftgate opening is out of square, theoretically fixing that make both of the side curved glass pieces fit better when you fix it.

With it out of square, one of the curved side glass pieces should be tight at the top and gapped at the bottom, and the other one would be the opposite -where they fit the pillar. Fixing the liftgate opening should make those more equal.

Of course that doesn't take into account some other error or "fix" that came from the factory. Like a quarter panel welded on too far outboard. But that's the way it should be. Hopefully you can assess that situation before fixing the opening. There should be some clues, but you'll probably need to cut the window rubbers before knowing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm going to live with it like it is for awhile. In the mean time I will measure, measure, measure until I know every dimension of the tailgate/liftgate opening. This approach of squaring the C pillars is drastic for anything but a restoration but I will not attempt it until I know it will work.
 

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The tailgate area is square but I have confirmed that the C pillars are out-of-square by 1/4 inch on the diagonal, i.e., when measured from the top of the C pillar to the bottom of the liftgate strut, there is a 1/4 difference between the two sides. That measurement should be the same even though the C pillars taper in at the top. Bad JuJu! :hammer:

How would you fix this problem?
A ¼ inch out on the diagonal isn’t all that much, less than 1 percent deviation. Your photo make would lead one to think it was more. I’d leave the body alone except for one simple detail regarding the gutter further down. From your photos, your lift gate is very far out of adjustment. It is to be high on the left, down on the right (i.e., tilted clockwise), and overall positioned with a bias to the right.

Since the car is painted and the quarter glass installed, I wouldn’t consider flexing the body. The quarter glass rubbers are not soft like new, with the age of yours, they are hard, and not so forgiving. Flexing the body may just crack a quarter glass.

Also, the gate is likely twisted. Are the torsion rods still in place? If so, then it is definitely twisted. They should be removed and either live with the weight, or add gas-strut supports. Does the gate leak? It may need to be straightened. The hinges are also another item which are often bent. Both the hinges and gate should be checked.

Correct all issues with the lift gate and leave the body alone. You will need to peel back the headliner to gain access to the hinge screws, which need to be loosened, to permit the hinges to be shifted.

There is one simple item needing correcting on the body, the drip rail misalignment shown on the driver’s side. It is rolled up. My car was just the opposite, the passenger gutter was up. You should be able to correct that gutter to align and also touch the stainless window trim with little or no paint damage. Both gutters should be level to the stainless quarter glass trim so that the gate gutter can be aligned.

Basically, the extent of adjustment on the body I would do is the correct the gutter alignment. Check your gate and hinges and straighten if needed, reinstall and align.

Personally, I would start with the gutter, and realigning your gate in it’s present state first, to determine the improvement. Lose the torsion rods along the way. Price out any gate and hinge correction/replacement, if really needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Also, the gate is likely twisted. Are the torsion rods still in place?
The torsion rods are removed and it is a restored liftgate with dimensions that are spot on. The hinges have been adjusted to their limits to get the corner of the liftgate to clear the body and stainless.

I talked to the PO who said that the passenger side glass was cracked when he got her in 1968. He replaced it with a used one in 1974-78.

My current idea is to remove the side glass and all trim on the C pillars. Then use two levers to torque the C pillars to the drivers side. That way only the C pillars and roof will be affected.
nOMAD.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
As tight as that gap is, if the top right were adjusted up where it should be, we'd be rubbing chrome against stainless there at the bottom every time the gate was opened or the car hit a bump in the road..
Exactly my friend!! And the liftgate was hitting the body because the liftgate frame extends past the stainless to seal against the tailgate weatherstrip. I can learn to live with it or fix it.
 
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