Dash was sandblasted and primed with SPI epoxy primer - 3 double coats with blocking in between coats (first with 180 and then with 400 both dry). Last coat of epoxy was sanded with 800 grit wet.
Two coats of Pro-Spray base in original '55 Regal Turquoise.
Three coats of SPI Universal Clear (urethane).
Base and clear were sprayed with Iwata LPH-400 gun.
I`d definitely use a spray gun to paint it with over the spray cans. I painted mine years ago with a spray gun but had a hard time getting good coverage over the instrument panel area with the glass still in. This time i had the paint shop shoot it while doing the body.
:confused0006:Rattle cans have their place and have improved greatly in the last few years. No argument that a spray gun is the better choice and more professional, but rattle cans can be used on smaller items. A dash board, i think, can be done with a can with better results if windshield is removed. As always, proper preparation is the key for good looking end results.
While having the facilities and equipment to do a professional job is nice, Not everyone has the money and/or equipment. For the guy who doesn;t, here is what you do.
First off, Rattle cans have alot more thinner in them than a paint gun, so when they dry the film coat is probably 1/3 the thickness of a spray gun coat. So you put three coats instead of one.
Secondly, They are right, 90% of the job is the prep, Sand verything with 180 then 320 and then 400. Go to your auto parts store and get sanding primer, (Not lowes or walmart generic) do the same thing with the primer.
The next important part is what kind of paint you use. I recently saw Acrylic Enamel in spray cans at oRileys. Acrylic enamel is much better than oil base enamel. If you follow these steps and take your time, you can get results that would challenge anyone to know it was painted with a rattle can.
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