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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i looked all over the web looking for a hammer for hard to reach places/between inter and outer quarters] for dent removal. i found nothing so i went to lowes and got a palm nailer and cut the end off a body hammer and used a 5/8 socket to join the 2 believe it or not it works like a champ.



 

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excellent

that is great idea ,glad it worked out .hope you don`t get mad for copying your trickedout cool tool,thanks for sharing.:tu
 

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Cool idea Rusty :cool: Get a patent on that thing quick:)
 

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They work great for shaping and driving deep stretches in metal. Ive gone threw two of them for some reason. I will have to check out the one at Lowes :D :D I made a few soft heads from U.H.M.W it's a good tool even though it wasn't ment for what we use them for.... :D :D
 

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Is there any differences between different nailers that would make them better or worse than others? I tried to find them listed at Lowe's and they're not on their website but there are some at Sears and Harbor Freight.

I may build one over the weekend. I'm tempted to get the HF one because I doubt it will get much use anyway - but be quite handy when I do use it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
rick l i bought this at lowes for around $50 sears and h/f may be a lot cheaper. this one is a bostitch here are some pics





hope this helps rusty
 

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I went to Lowe's and Sears after work and I didn't find anything. A guy at work told me he bought one at a Sears store down the street from our workplace but it's the other direction from my trip home, I went to a different one. He uses it to drive nails, oddly enough.

So it's either that Sears store or HF if I'm going to start on it this weekend, which I probably will.

Thanks for the help on id'ing it.
 

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Home Depot has them, thats where I got mine but I can't remember how much it was. Good idea on the new use for it.
 

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Update on my effort. I didn't find anything at the Sears store recommended, or at Home Depot either. So I went to Harbor Freight.

They had two units. One pretty large and clumsy. The other smaller and it will be much easier to use on the backside of a quarter panel or door. Looking at Rusty's photos, the Bostich nailer he used is similar in size to the small HF unit. I bought it, only $15 + tax. I figured I'm on a learning/designing deal anyway, so if it craps out or needs some design improvement, I could start over with better stuff.

First thing I did, I got it home and connected it to air as a nailer, it hits pretty hard.

I had an old cheap body hammer whose head was loose on the handle. I took the head off the handle and cut it near the handle attaching point, similar to what Rusty did. I then cut the backside down to roughly 5/8" diameter, same as the shank on the nailer. I had some 3/4" od x 5/8" id tube, that slips over the cut down hammer piece, and matches the tool. I drilled the backside of the hammer for a 3/16" rod made from a junk drill bit, this simulates the nail. I just got it together and gave it a test drive, hammering on the welding table. It seems to hit hard, even at 50 psi. I need to put a crown on the hammer face and test it on some junk before using it on a real job (which I have). I'll have to fool around with air pressure, and I probably need to at least tack weld it to the tool.

But it works! Just need to do some testing/exploring before using it on something real.
 

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I tried to really use the tool tonight. My HSS 3/16" drill bit mushroomed on the end and the tool quit working before it reallly did anything. The pin won't actuate the tool anymore. And I'm trying to get the shrink out of a seam that's only 1/4 to 1/3 welded. It should move far easier than if it was welded fully.

Rusty, what did you use between the hammer and the nailer's drive pin?

I've probably only got 5 minutes on this tool at 65 psi and it barely moved any metal before the pin mushroomed.

Suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I tried to really use the tool tonight. My HSS 3/16" drill bit mushroomed on the end and the tool quit working before it reallly did anything. The pin won't actuate the tool anymore. And I'm trying to get the shrink out of a seam that's only 1/4 to 1/3 welded. It should move far easier than if it was welded fully.

Rusty, what did you use between the hammer and the nailer's drive pin?

I've probably only got 5 minutes on this tool at 65 psi and it barely moved any metal before the pin mushroomed.

Suggestions?
rick i used a cut off allen wrench but i havent used it enough to know if it mushroom it is still working for now. i hope i didnt cause you to spend money on somthing that may not work long.rusty
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
They work great for shaping and driving deep stretches in metal. Ive gone threw two of them for some reason. I will have to check out the one at Lowes :D :D I made a few soft heads from U.H.M.W it's a good tool even though it wasn't ment for what we use them for.... :D :D
prostreet what kind of hardened steel did you use to simulate the nail ? in your iyo how can i improve this gadget thanks rusty
 

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"i hope i didnt cause you to spend money on somthing that may not work long"

No big deal, that's why I used a $15 Harbor Freight palm nailer and a used body hammer head, figuring I might have to take a second cut at the design anyway. So I have almost nothing in it.

Notice that Prostreet said he has gone through two of them. I wonder if the drive pin is the problem on his too.

I'll probably try to put a hardened pin in it and see how that goes. It has to be better. The Allen wrench may work.

Earlier I found some threads on other forums about this kind of tool, but the pin was never discussed. In fact it was never mentioned that you have to have one but once you have all the pieces in front of you it's obvious that you do.
 
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