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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What parts cleaning products are you using? I found Berryman Chem Dip available by order but not in stock at our local auto parts stores. If I am remembering correctly, that is just a so-so product. I have used Gunk Hydro Seal II in the past and still have a one gallon can of it. I have some parts soaking in it now but I am not having any luck finding more of it. I also have some PSC1000 which is working sort of OK. The problem with it is that everything rusts up quickly after it dries. I also have mineral spirits. I've seen posts by people who use pinesol. I cleaned a block with Joy dishwashing detergent once and it worked pretty well. However, this time I'm cleaning motor parts that have sat for a few decades and they are a lot dirtier and are stained and are a lot harder to clean than parts from an engine that has been running lately.
 

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1957 Bel Air sport sedan
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I have several cases of non chlorinated brake cleaner for everything greasy to get the initial thick layer off. Then I use Greased Lightning from Sam’s Club for the rest.
 

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I've used lots of stuff over the years, but it seems oven cleaner and simple green work ok. Sometimes have to scrape big clumps of grease off. I usually finish with sand blasting and powder coating. That way they are easy to keep clean.
 

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Nomads 55-57,69Z28-RS,72ElCamino, Corvette(5)
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Kerosene with gunk concentrate works best for 'grease/oil'. I have a 10 gallon drum with a closeable lid for that in my shop. I used Simple Green and water in my parts washer, and it works, but not as well as petroleum based cleaner... but I didn't want to use a flammable product in my parts washer since it has an electrical pump.
 

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Another vote for tractor supply here.
 

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1957 Bel Air sport sedan
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I've used oven cleaner before. I've found that the "no fume" pleasant stuff doesn't work as well as the bad stuff. I buy the cheapest thing that Dollar General carries. It cleans the best.
That’s the way it always works. I think there is a fundamental law in chemistry that dictates that if a products works well, it must be dangerous.
 

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57 210 2dr sedan sbc 200 4r trans she dont run bad man!
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In my parts washer i use mineral spirits and some transmission fluid. cleans ok but i still give the parts a quick blast of brake clean when i'm done, habit i guess..
 
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I use Purple Power. It's water based, and I buy it in 2.5 gal. jugs and dilute it with water in different amounts based on what I use it for. I clean parts, spray down engine bays, and even spray it on the garage floor or driveway before I pressure wash them.
It's very reasonably priced, and works well for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
When I was a teenager I worked in my Uncle's lawnmower shop back in the late 60's. We sprayed lawnmower engines down with a product called Stoddard Compound. It was phenomenal. After finishing a job you could dump your tools into a bucket of Stoddard Compound and slosh them around for a minute and they would be clean as new. Gasoline was 30 cents a gallon back then and I imagine the Stoddard Compound was cheaper than that. In recent years I've seen it listed for around $500 per gallon. Today I didn't see any for sell. It has been declared a hazardous waste.

The maintenance shop where I once worked used a mixture of kerosene and automatic transmission. And at an earlier job they had a water soluble safety solvent that stunk (literally) but it a good job of cleaning parts. It was slow to work but it did a great job of cleaning parts if you didn't mind the wait.
 

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I use purple power in large aluminum cooking pot over a propane fish cooker for engine parts. Bring it just to boil and drop parts in. Anything I don’t want to or can’t put in the oven thats what I use.. The heat melts grease and carbon. Then rinse and spray with a oil like WD40 to pevent flash rust.

For intakes and valve covers I cook in oven at 500* and the oils turn to carbon and clean right off. Easiest way to clean parts by far but you need an old kitchen oven for sure.

If you have rusted parts that are machined then use evapo rust to remove the rust with out having to blast it and damage the machine surface. Again need to rinse and oil
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm so glad you said it was an old oven. I was about ready to stick a bunch of parts in my wife's oven ;) . Seriously, I've thought about getting an old oven for such as this. It would plug right into my welder plug.
 

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I used the wife’s oven once to expand a ring gear prior to installation and she gave me a hard time. The flywheel was in the freezer too. Very easy installation.
 
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