[KrucksGarage]

I bought a front axle today from a guy locally. I paid $100 for what you see. I decided I wanted to run the 55-59 year range front axle fire the dimensions. This one was pulled from a 56 Chevy half ton truck. Here's the specs I pulled from Sid's Dropped Axles website for these 55-59 axles (spoke with him on the phone also, very helpful and great to discuss with):

54" kingpin center to center
31-7/8” spring pad center to center
4-1/2” factory drop
0.866” dia. kingpin
2-1/8” or 2-1/2” kingpin boss

I have the Early Bird Puyallup swap meet coming up on Saturday the 18th in my area so I'll be on the lookout for whatever I can find for the project! Depending on how that goes (and how much money I spend 😁), I might decide to order up the front end parts, leaf springs, steering, etc. afterwards and think about ordering up floors, trunk floor, wheel tubs and body mounts soon. I'm looking forward to getting this car to be a roller with the under body fixed, painted and bolted back on the frame. Thinking about a few frame stiffening mods before probably hitting it with POR-15.

 

[KrucksGarage]

Looks like it is going to be a great match for the frame rail width.

 

[stewartwhite]

Great find for $100 and it looks it's in good shape not all gouged up the I-Beam axle will be a great detail now you have to get a line on tie rod arms or fabricate a set. Are you going to use the stock sub frame or is it getting cut off? Though more expensive the Borgeson 525 steering box is much tighter than the Speedway there is a long and short input shaft version to choose from depending on the steering box location. Keep the momentum up!

Great TriFive fabricator:

Blown 56 chevy gasser build for 2017 meltdown or bust | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)

 

[KrucksGarage]

Great find for $100 and it looks it's in good shape not all gouged up the I-Beam axle will be a great detail now you have to get a line on tie rod arms or fabricate a set. Are you going to use the stock sub frame or is it getting cut off? Though more expensive the Borgeson 525 steering box is much tighter than the Speedway there is a long and short input shaft version to choose from depending on the steering box location. Keep the momentum up!

Great TriFive fabricator:

Blown 56 chevy gasser build for 2017 meltdown or bust | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)

Great, thanks for the tip on the steering box, I'll for sure look into that. The frame will get cut, but I'm deciding on whether or not to do floors in the body and get that squared away first, spray out the bottom of the body, and bolt it back on the frame with me body mounts before cutting the front so I have all my reference points in tact. I'd just have to get a few more mid-aft frame mods completed first. I think that the floors bring the PITA that they are I'm anxious to get that part behind me.

 

[KrucksGarage]

I picked up another 1956 (55-59) 3100 Chevy truck axle for the 57 gasser project today. Complete setup for $100, pretty happy with that, and meet a pretty cool fella out of the deal! This one came from OfferUp. Looks to be in nice shape, just need 5x4.75 hubs.

 

[56madman]

49-54 car hubs will fit. Nice score on the axles too.

 

[KrucksGarage]

So I'm doing some research on gasser application leaf springs and getting ready for the front frame rail mods. I'm running this 55-59 Chevy truck style front axle and working out what I want for spring length and height with the drop axle. I'll be doing more looking around on the forum and online to see what guys have had good luck with, but welcoming any feedback here if there's experience in stance and performance to offer.....

Thanks!

 

[KrucksGarage]

I have a buddy with these TTO's for sale. I'm considering picking these up for the car. 15x8.5 rear, 15x5 front. He's missing one 5" front, they're on national backorder. $400 for the three, but have to wait until end of March/April or so for the other wheel availability to pick up one more. Rears are +1-1/4" offset.

 

[KrucksGarage]

If anyone has a 15x5 TTO like the one pictured above available, let me know! I think I'm going to buy these three. 15x5's have a grim outlook as far as the backorder. I'll be browsing ebay etc. to see if there's one that can be had out there.

 

[stewartwhite]

Great deal on the wheels!

Your front axle is probably going to be located 1.5" to 2" forward of the stock spindle locations this needs to be considered in the spring measurement. Take advantage of the space for a longer spring so when the front end comes down after a launch it doesn't bend parts. Speedway springs are cheap but too short they will bounce you all the way down the track. There are a bunch of trailer springs offered to the market but as usual stray from cheap Chinese crap or better yet have springs made for your application. Just figure out estimated front end weight, spring deflection and eye to eye measurement any spring will probably require rework at the end of the project. Use Aluminum leaf spring bushings for the tightest and best steering feedback for side steering setups. Speedway steering arms flex way too much especially when you have to use their spacer to get the drag link level fabricate your own steering arm to determine steering box location, load the springs. Also consider the upper and lower shock mount locations are you going with front or rear steer? Use beefy short 3/8" reinforced shackles for tight steering and to minimize the effects from a side steer setup. Most the gassers you see have short shocks with too little travel the car is all over the place when the front end goes up and comes down. Tack everything down before permanent welds put full weight on the frontend I guarantee you will have to move things around. That is why I asked about the shock mounts I am battling my slide/tilt front end interfering with the shock locations and steering box angle interfering with the front engine mount. Double, double check the frame for straightness they are pretty rough I checked my front to back with a laser and a Trame Gauge everything checked out perfect and thought I had a good one. What I didn't check was the hump that goes over the rearend the right side is canted about an inch to the inside, what a pain.

I see you have now met the Gasser Police. There are for the most part great rodder's and racers over there I know quite a few but there are the clowns (loudest) that state facts and claims they cannot support but continually appoint themselves, it looks like you have done your homework. Your 57 has killer body lines the stock swooped rear wheel openings are part of the styling leave the rearend in the stock location. Attached is a picture with a 5" sectioned and lengthened front side of the rear wheel opening to squeeze in 28" M&H Cheater Slicks.

Keep up the momentum!

57 Street Freak Gasser

 

[KrucksGarage]

Great deal on the wheels!

Your front axle is probably going to be located 1.5" to 2" forward of the stock spindle locations this needs to be considered in the spring measurement. Take advantage of the space for a longer spring so when the front end comes down after a launch it doesn't bend parts. Speedway springs are cheap but too short they will bounce you all the way down the track. There are a bunch of trailer springs offered to the market but as usual stray from cheap Chinese crap or better yet have springs made for your application. Just figure out estimated front end weight, spring deflection and eye to eye measurement any spring will probably require rework at the end of the project. Use Aluminum leaf spring bushings for the tightest and best steering feedback for side steering setups. Speedway steering arms flex way too much especially when you have to use their spacer to get the drag link level fabricate your own steering arm to determine steering box location, load the springs. Also consider the upper and lower shock mount locations are you going with front or rear steer? Use beefy short 3/8" reinforced shackles for tight steering and to minimize the effects from a side steer setup. Most the gassers you see have short shocks with too little travel the car is all over the place when the front end goes up and comes down. Tack everything down before permanent welds put full weight on the frontend I guarantee you will have to move things around. That is why I asked about the shock mounts I am battling my slide/tilt front end interfering with the shock locations and steering box angle interfering with the front engine mount. Double, double check the frame for straightness they are pretty rough I checked my front to back with a laser and a Trame Gauge everything checked out perfect and thought I had a good one. What I didn't check was the hump that goes over the rearend the right side is canted about an inch to the inside, what a pain.

I see you have now met the Gasser Police. There are for the most part great rodder's and racers over there I know quite a few but there are the clowns (loudest) that state facts and claims they cannot support but continually appoint themselves, it looks like you have done your homework. Your 57 has killer body lines the stock swooped rear wheel openings are part of the styling leave the rearend in the stock location. Attached is a picture with a 5" sectioned and lengthened front side of the rear wheel opening to squeeze in 28" M&H Cheater Slicks.

Keep up the momentum!

View attachment 389395
57 Street Freak Gasser

@stewartwhite This is a lot of great information, thank you for taking the time to relay all that thought process forward. Good items to keep in mind during the front end fabrication work. I still have details to sort out with steering style and mount points. I like what you're saying about springs. I had a guy at my local shop "Right Way Spring Co." On the phone today talking about doing just that with custom springs and I really like the idea of sorting out the perfect setup for my application. I picked up this Ford 9" out of a 1/2 ton pickup from a friend tonight. $200. I'll get it narrowed and looking into Dutchman in Oregon to get able shafts cut, with 5 on 4.75 studs for the old school AR rears. I might use a hot rod shop that I know in my area who had the jigs for narrowing. I think it was pretty reasonable last I talked with him s couple weeks ago. I just need to get my rear tires figured out and mocked up on wheels in place and take some measurements before cutting the housing down. I'll get it stripped and ready to go for now.

 

[KrucksGarage]

@stewartwhite ...... BTW and again....I sure do love your 57. Awesome looking car!

 

[KrucksGarage]

Wound up buying these AR torque thrust originals (TTO) wheels today from the buddy that offered them up. Smoking good deal, he really hooked me up. I'll run studs in the rear, fronts are acorn seat. I just have the one new 15x5 front, they're on national backorder and he bought the last one apparently that the US had to offer. I found one in Ontario, Canada through some website, $59 shipping to get it to Washington. It's all good though. Also have a contingent backorder in through Summit just in case so we'll see what happens. I called Wheel Pros, who owns the American Racing brand today, the guy told me probably 90+ days out but wasn't sure, and dependent on when the manufacturer in China notifies them that they had been made. Summit said expected to ship March 27th I think it was, but that's likely not accurate by talking to Wheel Pros. Fingers crossed I can get another one.... I'm ready to buy if y'all have one lying around...P/N VN3095561

 

[KrucksGarage]

I got my other wheel ordered up yesterday, coming out of Canada. $59 duty shipping. 15x5 American racing TTO. That will complete my setup. Ordering tires soon....

 

[KrucksGarage]

These '57 283's are up for grabs if you're in my area. I need em gone! Power pack heads, ram horn manifolds included. If they're worth anything to ya, throw me an offer. If they're not, then take em for free! Lol...

The one on the red stand is out of my black hardtop. The one on the yellow stand is from the 2-door belair post I cut up. You can see that in my other content.

 

[KrucksGarage]

Looking for any front leaf feedback. I'm running a 55-59 Chevy 3100 1/2 ton truck drop center beam axle which runs a factory 2" wide leaf spring. Rear tires will be towel city 28.5", 10x15 pie crust. Looking for a good spring option up front with this combo.

Have y'all had good luck with the 1-3/4" width option springs like speedway sells on these axles or have to compensate for the spacial difference between the leaf pack width and the ID of the u-bolt? Only talking 1/8" per side and with the locating pin and parallel leafs I want sure if that matters.

 

[blackwidow]

https://www.alcanspring.com/

This is my first stop with all things springs , Lew is not cheap but he is honest and the packs will be mimic of each other and support as intended plus the bonus is you get guaranteed USA steel and USA employees along with support stateside business from start to finish.
He will need to know your four corner weight to ensure proper pack loading, is this a big block or a small block build?
In my experience I would use what come out of it , at one point it was R&D’d so there’s reasons sure 1/8” a side appears to be marginal but under load how will you keep it locked in the u bolts if they don’t grab the sides……

 

[KrucksGarage]

https://www.alcanspring.com/

This is my first stop with all things springs , Lew is not cheap but he is honest and the packs will be mimic of each other and support as intended plus the bonus is you get guaranteed USA steel and USA employees along with support stateside business from start to finish.
He will need to know your four corner weight to ensure proper pack loading, is this a big block or a small block build?
In my experience I would use what come out of it , at one point it was R&D’d so there’s reasons sure 1/8” a side appears to be marginal but under load how will you keep it locked in the u bolts if they don’t grab the sides……
View attachment 390797

Appreciate the feedback on the spring data. I wound up ordering the 31-1/4" springs through Speedway Motors, so I'll see how that goes. Looks like it will be a pretty good application. I'm considering building a hat for the springs out of 4"x1/8" flat bar and brake it in a U shape to come down over the top of the spring to take up the space between the pack and the inside of the U-bolts. It would be simple enough to do and can't hurt. I think the extra cinch might be a decent thing to apply. I'll see how that looks when I get it all mocked in place and decide if I want to run it. Thanks for the help!

 

[427sleeper]

1/8” a side appears to be marginal but under load how will you keep it locked in the u bolts if they don’t grab the sides……

The U-bolts keep the axle clamped to the spring's... and that's all. The locating pin's in the spring's that go into the axle is what keeps everything in proper alignment. As long as the U-bolts are tight enough to keep the axle on the locating pin's, that little bit of space between the bolt's and spring pack's doesn't mean a thing.

 

[stewartwhite]

Are you going to use a 2X4" frame rail? Will the 1 3/4" width spring scale the frame rails, shackles and 3100 axle spring pad?