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Discussion Starter · #61 ·

Thought I would throw up some new pics, so here we go. Rouges gallery above,,lol. your's truly on the left, pop's (Roger) in the middle and brother Eric on the right.


Heading out on the madien voyage after a year of sitting, open headers and all, the cursed right park light seems to have a mind of it's own, I still need to fiddle with the wiring and get that resolved, Front fenders are primed due to the fact that we had the eyebrows replaced due to rot. no front hubcaps at this time because it was brought right back to the shop to check wheel bearings and generally eyeball everything after a few miles, retighten bolts, ect. some dust bunnies hitching a ride as well. Original chrome pieces, they look good at 20 feet, but if you get up close, the truth comes out.


Happy camper!!


Uh oh!! he's coming to a stop on a straight stretch for no apparent reason,,this cant be a legal act.


Dad was telling me to REALLY boil the hides. all hunched down and torqued up, the right rear is just starting to haze in the pic. Eric was saying that the leaf springs were arched/rolled to the max when we went by. I was hesitant to even light em up due to the fact that those leaf springs and rear gears are original and pretty much shot. they wont last long with that motor. bring on the ford 9", Cal-trac bars, new 5 leafs, bushings, ect.

Hope you enjoyed the pics.
 

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Glad to see it back out on the road. Open headers, i thought it was going for exhaust in the last post? Or was i not supposed to catch that? Just couldn`t resist the open headers first i suppose. Looks like your dad enjoyed it anyway.
Terry
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Thanks Terry,, he enjoyed it immensley.

the pics above were open headers. got it back from the exhaust shop last week. Nice and throaty, but not to obnoxious. Flowtech 16" straight in/side out mufflers with 2.5" pipes, with a H pipe section, downturned just at the rear bumper, didnt want the pipes sticking out the back looking like wheelbarrow handles. We were going to cut the bolt on collectors off and just weld up the pipes solid to the headers, but opted for the new Remflex collector gaskets, didnt really want to hack into a brand new set of Super Comp 2112's (after my lesson with the Patriot's)

New Remflex gaskets for the Hooker 3" collectors.
http://catalog.remflex.com/product_p/rf8002.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·

Welp, I gobbled down some cold medicine yesterday and gutted it out down in the cold shop and put the heater box back into the 56. I dont think this car has had heat or defrost for quite some time, considering the corrosion to the original heater core. A little bit tricky getting that heater box back in place, but not to bad. Put the hoses back on and fired the car up. Worked like a charm, PLENTY of heat and no leaks. I'm thinking I might need to add some ball valves of some sort to isolate the core in the summer. It's the middle of winter so we will worry about that one later.



Remember the kicking deal on a ford 9" I was going to get? It didnt happen as the picture plainly shows. Went to the classic junkyard to get a 68 ranchero rear end that was complete (or so I was told). Once I got there things werent as they should have been, the rear end was stabbed in the mud with 1 axle missing and no backing plates, the webbing on the 3rd member was cracked somehow. After digging thru the junkyard for hrs it seemed, and dealing with a couple downpours I found a housing that would work. Picked up the bare housing above for $75. It measures 57" from flange to flange. Once you add backing plates, axles, brakes, ect, you gain 5 inches from what I have read. Adding that in it gives me 62" in width, so this housing will have to be shortened a few inches. The guy who did the chassis work on the drag Camaro is a dealer for Dutchman motorsports and he said he could give me a kicking deal on a complete finished rear end. I still have to take some measurements and make notes on wheel backspacing before the work can start.

Dutchman motorsports has some nice tri-five chevys. They make a super duty replacement axle for the stock tri-five rear end.
http://www.dutchmanms.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Getting close for a update, thanks for asking. Still waiting for some parts to come in so I can do a finish-up on a extended task.

Stay tuned,,,:D:tu
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Update

OK, some more pictures and a few stories to tell (all of them true). going to back up here a few months and relay some interesting info about replacement dash gauges.


Here we have the Danchuk factory correct replacement gas gauge next to the old gauge that quit working, very nice piece compared to the old and D-chuk's is very proud of it


nice little tin cover that protects the valuables inside.


wait a minute?? the screw holes dont line up?? yes, thats right folks after talking to the kid at D-chuk's I came to find out that everything wasent machined perfectly back in the 50's (so he says). He goes on to tell me they checked all there new gauges after I complained and they all fit the dash they had there,,so my dashboard must be faulty.:rolleyes: I wasent going to argue so I decided to just fix the gauge problem on my own versus shipping it back and getting another gauge that probably wouldnt fit. I bought both the temp gauge and the fuel gauge and had to nip the corner out with a dremel wheel to get the screw started. not a difficult fix, but you would think at $160 a pop a person shouldnt have to do anything.



GOTCHA,,YA FURRY LITTLE BUGGER!! this guy and his brother (also dearly departed) were munching away on my front bench seat that needs a rebuild,,building themselves a nice little 1950's retro condo in the left quarter. I think I have eradicated said vermin,,the trap hasent been sprung for a bit.



New speedo correction gears for a TH350 from TCI. Talked to the guys at TCI and they hooked me up with the right ones to correct for 3.70 gears and a 225-275 tire. So you dont have to use the hugely confusing formula stated on the Ecklers site,,just give these guys a call and tell them what you have.



Once you use a Nascar 2 pump jack, you wont want to use anything else. So much faster than the old Jack I have. 1 3/4 pumps to bring the saddle to bear, then the jack steps down a bit to lift the rest of the way. tosses the 56right in the air,,:tu. That's the 17" lift 1.5 ton but a couple 2x4's stacked and it lifts to 21"



Out with the old!!



IN with the new 9"!! My chassis man had switched from Dutchman to Strange engineering so I went with all there parts. 57" wide wheel to wheel, 31 spline, 3.70 gears, New Strange nodular iron center section, new cone style posi.





New bits and pieces going in as well. 5 leafs from Mutton Hollow, Caltrac bars, shock relocator.


I think these are the Bars to have,,everything is heavy duty and over- engineered.


Driveshaft saftey loop I made. The 1/2 loop is from Quartermax/RJ racecars and is pinned so you can pull the pins and get the loop out of your way to work on the driveline area. I was bored and waiting for parts so I wipped this up. I hope I dont ever have to pull the loop off.


Anyways,,some of the stuff I have been working on.
Hope you enjoyed!!.
 

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hi ya, every dad should have a son like you:tu:).
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
hi ya, every dad should have a son like you:tu:).

Thanks Carl, I appreciate that. Pop's has had a rough-go lately, he went in for hip replacement in January and had some issues with blod clots moving around. Some of them found there mark and he had a couple light heart attack's (no damage thank god) after we got him home from the surgery. After several months of in and out of the hospital we think we have it under control. He is doing much better now, ready for summer and crusing around in our 56, then he and mom are going to load up in there diesel pusher Motorhome and hit the trail once the doctors release him to drive again.
 

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Welcome to the site. Thats a great story. Always take care of POP.
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 · (Edited)
Easter update


Hooked up a Moroso catch can for the radiator. Little plastic tank that is vented and has a handy lever drain at the bottom. I was able to utilize a welded nut that was on the core support frame and only had to drill 1 hole thru the panel for the outside. (tank and nifty clamp sold separately).


Dad did a little cleanup work on the old rear end, scraping off years worth of built up crud, you couldn't even begin to see the webbing on the center section. had him doing this while we waited for the new driveline.


New Driveline!!:tu Took the old driveline down to have some work done to it. The driveline man said the tube was bent pretty good, so he replaced it and did all the necissary work to make it fit the ford 9". The rear u-joint (bottom of pic) is the conversion 1310/1350 big cup joint. The factory length was spot on for a TH350 short shaft and ford 9" big yoke.


Ok folks,,here is what happens when you dont take into consideration ALL the variables with narrowing a rear end and using stock suspension locations. No way the u-bolt is going to fit around the tube with drum brakes with e-brake provisions on the backing plate. I could have made this work after some serious air grinder work and alot more time involved, or, I could have cut the top bend out of the u-bolt and welded the stubs to the tube, but it would have still required some grinding. I opted for a easier fix and possibly getting my money back out of the undamaged drum brakes setup.


Enter the Strange Engineering quad piston disk brakes. this should get it stopped. I gained back the 2.5" I lost with the drum brake backing plates. The u-bolt slipped over the tube with plenty of room to spare (in a general sense).


Anyone need 11" drum brakes for there Ford 9",,:D these fit the LATE BIG FORD axle flanges. measurements for the backing plate bolt pattern is 3.55 W X 2" H X 3.150 axle bearing. Brand new, just pulled off, never been used. all the bits and pieces are neatly bagged and separated, right and left sides.
PM me if interested.

EDIT: I want to give a big thanks to 55MIKE for helping me with this rear end setup, he has been instrumental in getting it sorted out. Thanks Mike!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Thanks Terry. A couple pics of new stuff



Got the front seat back from the upolsterer's, Looks pretty good I think. There are a couple ruffled corners where the material could have been pulled tighter. Kinda the theme we decided to change to. We were going to go charcoal grey and white, but these colors are closer to what dad had back in his younger years with his first 56. New springs and foam with pleated red cloth and a white surround. The guy who did the work also polished the lower trim.



I had a horrible night at work last week. It took forever to get my Freightliner loaded and then had to wait for the next truck to show up before I could leave the site, Then stuck on the highway for about 2 hrs due to a accident investigation. Went home pretty angry and contemplating a job change,,swung the door open and found these setting there. Made me smile and laugh. My brother and I had talked about what tire to put on the 56 for fun and kicks. Mickey Thompson ET street radials 275/60/15's.


 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
are the new tires on the car yet? did they fit good?

LMAO! funny you should ask, I just now got back from the tire shop having the new 15x8's and tires mounted up. everything looks good, except for 1 thing,,lol. A little bit close on the front leaf spring alignment clips, so those will be removed with a hot torch or cutoff wheel. A wrap or two of some black duct tape I have and all should be well. I added a 1/4 spacer but it was still to close for my likeing. Once I trim the clip off, it should be set

They looked really good, 275's fill up the wheel well quite nice on a 56.

so here's the stats. 57" wide rear end housing wheel to wheel, stock location on the springs, 15X8 Early wheel company smoothies with 3.25 backspace and reverse drop center, 275/60/15's Mickey Thompson ET street radial. Probably should have went with 57.50" on the rear end width.
 
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